armyeod Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 since it seems the left stock fork only has a spring and no piston and the right fork has the piston and spring with damper, then is it possible to just order the guts of the right fork and slap them in the left fork? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted June 27, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted June 27, 2015 Just an FYI, both fork legs have fluid in them and some sort of valving. The only difference appears to be the adjusting rod and adjustable cap (and two fluid holes vs one)? See the attached: Note: The fluid quantities are different between the left and right fork legs (15.01 oz, 14.57 oz (444.0 cm, 431 cm)), but the fork fluid height is the same (6.9 in., 6.9 in. (174mm, 175mm)). A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armyeod Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Interdasting. Because the dude from Traxxion said there is no valving in the left fork; only a spring. Hmmmmmm. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted July 17, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 17, 2015 FYI there is no damping in the standard left fork, only a spring and oil for lubrication.What are you basing this on so we can all learn from your experience? I have personally had the forks apart on both legs, and oddly enough, there is an adjustment rod on both sides (no inner rod on the nonadjustable side I presume), and holes at the bottom on both fork legs (compression valve oil holes I presume), but the nonadjustable side has the higher up oil holes , but still has the adjusting rod. Nonadjustable fork leg (not disassembled) Adjustable fork leg (partially disassembled) Nonadjustable side Adjustable side A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 FYI there is no damping in the standard left fork, only a spring and oil for lubrication.What are you basing this on so we can all learn from your experience? I have personally had the forks apart on both legs, and oddly enough, there is an adjustment rod on both sides, and holes at the bottom on both fork legs (compression valve oil holes I presume), but the nonadjustable side has no higher up oil holes (rebound valve oil holes I presume), but still has the adjusting rod. Having not fully disassembled the cartridge internals, I can only guess that there is a compression valve in there, but no rebound valve. Just my theory, so do not flame me (as that would not be nice). Adjustable fork leg (not disassembled) [attachment thumbnail=1" id="72] Nonadjustable fork leg (partially disassembled) [attachment thumbnail=1" id="73] Adjustable side [attachment thumbnail=1" id="74] Nonadjustable side [attachment thumbnail=1" id="75] Agree, Ulewz. It does has damping in both fork legs, but one fork doesn't have an inner damping rod - which I think is responsible for the compression adjustment. Tosh's comment didn't set well with me either, but I let it slide. Maybe he doesn't understand the way all those holes affect the oil flow? Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 since it seems the left stock fork only has a spring and no piston and the right fork has the piston and spring with damper, then is it possible to just order the guts of the right fork and slap them in the left fork? Army- Yes, I think that exactly what you could do. Not sure how much handling performance you would gain however. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted July 25, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 25, 2015 the small diameter inner hollow rod is for adjusting rebound damping only. The only way to adjust compression damping on the stock fork is to increase the oil viscosity and or reduce the air gap.My point was there is a small diameter inner hollow rod on BOTH of my stock forks. That is what was confusing to me. My other point was that the right leg also has holes at the bottom to displace fork oil, but to what avail if there is no inner cartridge (to prevent hydrostatic lock)? When you changed to linear springs, I assume the MT-09 (non-tracer) springs were shorter (according to your post) , so what did you do for a spacer (longer spacer needed to fill gap)? I have Andreani cartridges, so this info is for my friends that may take advantage of my extra internals. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted July 25, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 25, 2015 Incidentally the previously posted picture of the non dissasembled insert looks more like the non adjustable side rather than the stated adjustable side according to the fact that it has the additional oil orifice on the insert at the 9.5 " point as well as the two orifices at the bottom. Also, the item marked "not sure what this is" is the rubber bump stop.You are correct, the nonadjustable side has the holes up high and the adjustable side does not. I improperly assumed they were for the Rebound valve and made assumptions from there. I find your reworked writeup to be very informative and factual, thank you. The rubber bumper stop is on both sides, was just hidden on the one I disassembled. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 The leg without the upper holes is a traditional cartridge. As the forks compress, a vacuum trys to form behind the 'rebound' piston. The top of this rebound piston has a low-force pop-off shim so the base valve's compression valving which is pretty stiff easily provides the force needed for the oil to back-fill. But the volume of oil being displaced sandwiched between the 2 pistons is greater than that available behind the rebound piston by virtue of that 10mm rod's displacement. If you do the calculations it turns out that for every unit of linear motion, almost 2/3 of the volume fits behind the rebound piston, and the other 1/3 (since oil doesn't compress) is forced past the base valve's shim stack. Thus you have compression damping. On the 'dead' leg the upper holes short-circuit this differential displacement so 100% of displacement can push upward past the rebound piston. Close those holes off and you've got yourself most of a traditional 4-piston setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 The only thing I can safely say is that the FZ is missing a ton of shims. No, I don't have the shim arrangement to lay out side by side, nor do I have a dyno to supply quantitative differences. The "correct" shim stack for the FZ and FJ will be almost the same, within 2 shims most likely. My stack with the high-flow pistons is a little bit stiffer than one you might build if working with RT's pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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