O2 controller for closed loop area

[BVEBRAD]

[div style=text-align:justify]I just ordered the O2 controler from Kev.  I'm hoping it's everything most claim it to be.  If so I will refrain from the rather expensive ECU reflash.  Once it's on the bike I'll jot down a thing or two.
 

[adjuster]

I have Kev's O2 fooler and love it.
On my 2006 FZ1, I ran Ivan's similar fix for the "lean" condition and it made the "terrible" 2006 FZ1 fuel injection really easy to ride. (And with the flies cut in half, and some air box mods, the bike made seriously more power with a slip on Akrapovic muffler.)
 
On the CP3 engine, there are no secondary throttle controls, but it's all computer controlled. So you don't really open the throttle, the ECU is told you want more throttle, it checks the system, and if it's in order, it gives you more throttle.
 
Same with fuel. In CLOSED loop only, so at lower RPM and off throttle, the ECU is doing what's best for emissions, not smooth running or power. It is going to try and maintain that program target fuel ratio and it's leaner than it needs to be for smooth running and power.
 
The ECU guys add fuel, and tell you to pull the O2 sensor. This works if your bike is at the same altitude, pressure and other factors as the "setup" bike tune.
 
But our bikes, especially here in the mountains, run from 1200' down in Boise to 8k or more at some of the passes. That 6k in changes or more, can really play with the bike's fuel map. And sure, the stock system does what it can to adapt, but at lower RPM and off power, it's going to be wrong. Often really wrong.
 
With the "closed" loop working, but having the ECU "fooled" into seeing 14.7 while the bike is really at about 13:1 or so makes for a smooth engine down low, power when you want it off idle and no more "fuel cut" surging. (This is really common in say 3rd or 4th gear, putting along in traffic about 30 to 40mph... Barely on the throttle.. The bike is running in closed loop mode, and yet it's way lean for power when you roll on the throttle or back off the throttle, it hunts for emissions then power then emissions again.. and you feel a bike that's not happy to putt putt along.
 
Another time is in first or second looking for a parking space.. This bike is downright dangerous, and most "new" EFI bikes are the same. They are in closed loop, and you lose your precision on the throttle and power as the bike has to go from one to the other, and it takes a few seconds for that to happen...
 
So, about the time you ask for power to go around a speed bump, it's there as you pass it... but then you want to slow and pull into a space, and the bike is still trying to get you around the speed bump. Or you want the space, and it's dead, then bang you get the power, but right as you want to slow and stop...
 
By running "richer" at all times in CLOSED loop, the bike makes more power, and the engine runs much smoother. (It fails the EPA test I'm sure, but I do not care about the EPA.)
 
One downside I could see is in a very long term running at lower speeds, you might be able to "load up" the cat, with extra fuel? It would burn off and get very hot, and that could damage the cat if you did it really often.
 
However, if you think about it, the cat needs to get hot as fast as possible, that's why your engine runs rich when cold, it's harder to light off the air fuel mix in a cold engine. (The fuel does not atomize as well when it's cold, and a hot engine turns fuel into small droplets or vapor on contact with a hot intake valve for example.) This rich condition loads up the cat, and the AIS dumps in extra air, and burns it all, heating up the cat very fast. This improves the emissions results on the stock bike.
 
With Kev's "fooler" on there it will just burn off more fuel in the cat, but the cat on this bike is pretty large, and located down in the air flow under the bike, in a large formed box. I do not see it catching fire. Or getting so hot it melts the substrate core material.
 
Of course, if you run no cat, it just makes your muffler spit really bitch'in flames!

[BVEBRAD]

[div style=text-align:justify]I just ordered the O2 controler from Kev.  I'm hoping it's everything most claim it to be.  If so I will refrain from the rather expensive ECU reflash.  Once it's on the bike I'll jot down a thing or two.

I installed the O2 controller today.  I only got a chance to ride through my development but I must say the results are better than I was expecting.  I would say 90% of the jerkiness is gone.  For the first time ever I was able to do a slow tight circle without slipping the clutch.  So far I am extremely pleased with it.

[slt]

Whats the benefit of going with this controller vs just disabling it with a flash?

[BVEBRAD]

I put about 50 miles on the FJ today after installing the O2 controller.  The bike is definitely much smoother.  Most of  the low speed, low gear jerkiness is gone.  I find that you can  still hear it in the engine a little bit but you barely notice it in the bike.  I've read where it gets better after a few rides.  When cruising at speed while light on the throttle  the bike feels smoother as well.  At this point I still haven't ruled out a reflash of the ECU.  I would like to hear some opinions of the O2 controller vs. An ECU reflash.

[adjuster]

The best feature of this mod is the low speed smooth running.
 
If you are in traffic, or just want a smooth running bike around town, and in parking lots, there is not much better mod to have.
 
I don't have an ECU flash however.
 
One thing I did noticed about my FZ1, and I'm assuming it's most likely true of the FJ09, is that the "base fuel" map seems to be learned by these bikes.
 
And since you are "fooling" the ECU at lower engine speeds, when it's in closed loop, to run "rich" while thinking it's seeing a "lean" or Stoichl/Lambda reading of 14.7:1... The base map that all your OPEN loop fuel trim is based on will be rich as well.
 
A side result on my FZ1 was raw fuel being spit out the muffler. It made my riding clothes smell like gas all the time. I get the same gas smell with the Kevtex mod that I got from Ivan's MAP dongle. They attack the problem from different sides, the MAP signal on the FZ1, and the O2 sensor signal on the FJ, but in both cases, it made the engine run richer down low, and that seems to make it "richer" starting out on top too.
 
For example: My FZ1 should have been lean on top. But it made 148 and change RWHP on the HD dyno. Not too shabby for just a slip on Akra, the Ivan's Map mod, cut flies, open air box and Pipercross filter upgrade. Guys who have fuel commanders are not making that much power on FZ1's depending on the tune.
 
When I saw that result, I was done doing mods for more power. I was one tooth down on the front, so the low end was excellent while still having plenty of power on top, and actually it geared the bike so you could use 6th gear for top speed. (Stock it was too high, and the engine was out of the power band peak in 6th if you were going for top speed.) It was not as fast as my brother's Honda 1000RR, but up to above 140mph? It was right there, and above that his bike would slowly pull away depending on how tucked in I could remain. If he sat up, or opened his knees, I would catch him quickly due to areodynamic drag.
 
Getting rid of the speed limiter MIGHT be the ONLY reason I really ever flash the ECU on this bike. That and more power? I guess you really can't have too much, but it's dang nice right now as it sits.

[BVEBRAD]

Has anyone with Kevs O2 Controller noticed their bike starting to run rough?  At first my bike was running great, the last couple of days when running slow and light on the throttle the bike has started to run like crap.  I plan on pulling the controller to see if that is my problem or determine if it's something else.  I do have 12k+ on the bike now.  Perhaps it's time for a service.  All I've done is change the oil 4 times.

[BBB]

Mine still seems fine Brad (touches wood, despite a strong intellectual rejection of superstition as it's my bike we're talking about). Maybe time to look at your spark plugs?