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Which sync tool?


gce

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I plan on doing my 600mile service and beyond. I've never trusted the dealer to work on my bikes. I want to get a sync tool so my question is which one would you get. The fluid one or the dial gage one? I'm looking at the Motion Pro fluid gages or the Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge Cb Gs Kz 550 650 750 with the dial gages.
 
 
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I plan on doing my 600mile service and beyond. I've never trusted the dealer to work on my bikes. I want to get a sync tool so my question is which one would you get. The fluid one or the dial gage one? I'm looking at the Motion Pro fluid gages or the Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge Cb Gs Kz 550 650 750 with the dial gages. 

Motion Pro gauges from Smith Family Powersports for obvious reasons.  ::) I can think of two immediately. 
$_57.JPG
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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Ummm...was there a tool in that picture?

2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch

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Since it looks like you got an answer to your question, I'll go ahead and ask, do people find that the dealers don't necessarily do the work they should? Also, what is the purpose/importance of doing this sync? I need to check with my dealer to see if they did it during my 600 mile service.
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Since it looks like you got an answer to your question, I'll go ahead and ask, do people find that the dealers don't necessarily do the work they should? Also, what is the purpose/importance of doing this sync? I need to check with my dealer to see if they did it during my 600 mile service.
The motor trade in general has a poor reputation for charging for work that was either not completed when asked for or in some case, do extra work that was unnecessary e.g. we in the UK have an annual check on vehicles once over 4 years old: the check is done by the same places that offer repairs. Some unscrupulous garages will incorrectly fail a vehicle to boost work in the workshop. Of course, quantifying the extent of the problem is impossible. I tend to stick with the same places once I am happy with their work, and if that means paying a few hundred quid more to buy a bike or in maintenance costs over a longer period I see it as a reasonable investment in helping to keep that business open. Those businesses that do not give a good service are usually the ones who end up going bust after a few years through offering cheap prices to attract customers but then cutting corners to make a profit.   
This throttle body sync is important as it ensures each of the three cylinders are in balance with a closed throttle. So, when you open the throttle, each cylinder is starting from the same point. If the cylinders are being fuelled differently at a certain throttle opening you will not get optimum performance. In extreme cases, you will feel vibrations.
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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Since it looks like you got an answer to your question, I'll go ahead and ask, do people find that the dealers don't necessarily do the work they should? Also, what is the purpose/importance of doing this sync? I need to check with my dealer to see if they did it during my 600 mile service.
Here's a video on the valve sync that will help you understand. [video src=https://youtu.be/V99I7dCYf6o]
 
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Ok. There are some mistakes in that video and I don't want anyone to be misled:
 
- cyl #1 IS NOT ALWAYS THE STANDARD. The standard throttle body is marked by the factory with a white paint mark on newer bikes, including the FJ 09.
 
-don't worry about WHERE on the mm/hg scale each TB is registering. The other (2 in this case) TB's should be adjusted to match the standard.
 
-idle speed must be set first! And constantly monitored as you adjust the sync. Doesn't matter for our bikes, it's controlled by the IAC via the ecu. But this is CRITICAL
on any carbed bike or any bike with a manual idle adjustment.
 
- the main reason to check the sync is because the engine breaks-in. The valves will seat to the position they are going to run at for the immediate future, and valve train wear is one of the biggest causes of a change in the engine's condition which requires the TB sync be checked and adjusted.
 
-DONT REMOVE THE CLAMPS from the rubber caps. Otherwise when you drop them into the "bowels" of the engine you won't be able to remove them with a magnet. You also don't need to squeeze the clamps to seat the caps back on the nipples. Simply push them on, it's easier.
 
Hope that helps someone.
 
-skip
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Thanks for the replies folks. I didn't want to hijack the OP's thread, but since it looked like he had an answer to his question, I figured I'd ask instead of starting a new thread. @wessie your answer makes complete sense (both the part about the shops and the sync).
 
I'm going to watch the video now (with the grains of salt @skipperT mentioned). I'm also going to double check with my dealer to make sure they did the sync (as it's not on the receipt). If they didn't do it, it'll have to wait till I get my ECU back from 2wheeldynoworks - I just finished pulling it and am mailing it off Monday. :D
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  • 3 weeks later...
Just synchronized my throttle bodies last night. I have about 3K miles on the bike. They were not too far off to start with, but I did make a couple of minor adjustments. I also managed to lose one of the stupid little rubber boots with the clamp on it. I installed one of the rubber boots from the manometer, and I am sure it will stay in place just fine until I get an OEM replacement. The number 1 cylinder vac port is CHALLENGING to access; particularly with fat fingers. :P
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Do you have to order the 6mm adapters, or do the included 5mm adapters work?

2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch

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Do you have to order the 6mm adapters, or do the included 5mm adapters work?
@estell, I ordered this: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7JHWA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01 
It came with the 6 mm adapters, but I didn't have to use them.
 
EDIT: In fact, I didn't have to use any adapters.  Just slide the hoses onto the throttle body thingy's (nipples?).
 
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Do you have to order the 6mm adapters, or do the included 5mm adapters work?
@estell, I ordered this: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7JHWA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01 
It came with the 6 mm adapters, but I didn't have to use them.
 
EDIT: In fact, I didn't have to use any adapters.  Just slide the hoses onto the throttle body thingy's (nipples?).

True, although not clear in this picture, the nipples are most certainly there.  :P  ....both hands on the keyboard boys! 
$_57.JPG
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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