Can't install hard bags

[ayrton]

I just received the hard bags - about 60 days after I bought the bike.  I was looking forward to doing the install on my own.
 
First problem:
To install the locks you need a T-10 torx (small) driver.  I went to Home Depot and bought a little screwdriver set with a T-10 Torx, but now I find that it has to be a T-10 tamper-proof driver.  So none of my tools will fit it.
 
Second problem:  To install the brackets, you must remove the passenger footpegs.  Those are secured with hex bolts (Allen).  But they are probably put in with Loctite Blue, so my hand Allen key set won't budge them.
 
So, I guess I'll have the dealer install them, just like it recommends in the instructions, when I do the 600 miles service.
 

[gce]

I got these from Amazon for Allen bolts http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NICF70?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 It even has a 1/2" drive for the front wheel and will take off your passenger pigs, no problem. I'm sure Amazon will have a 6 point T-10 Torx tamper prof too.
 
The right tools for the job makes it easy.

[fanowater]

Not everyone wants to own tools or work on their bikes, but I love it and think getting a full set of sockets and allen drives would be worth the investment.
Loctite blue is not too strong.
I'll grant you the Torx drivers are a real pain in the Keyster.
 
You can buy a fair number of tools for what the dealers charge for simple things like removing the wheels from the bike for a tire change, adding the one set of mounts for the hard luggage, etc.
 
If you go the do-it-yourself route, get a good torque wrench. I like Craftsmen, seem a good balance between quality and price.
 
Cheers

[fanowater]

I got these from Amazon for Allen bolts http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NICF70?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 It even has a 1/2" drive for the front wheel and will take off your passenger pigs, no problem. I'm sure Amazon will have a 6 point T-10 Torx tamper prof too. 
The right tools for the job makes it easy.

that is a nice set and a perfect example of tools not running too much.Cheers 

[deersSlayer]

Second problem:  To install the brackets, you must remove the passenger footpegs.  Those are secured with hex bolts (Allen).  But they are probably put in with Loctite Blue, so my hand Allen key set won't budge them.

Yes. As stated in the service manual, Loctite and 40 ft-lb torque. You should get a set of hex head drivers and use a torque wrench to reinstall the passenger footpeg hangers.  
I'm no mechanic, but I bought the Yamaha service manual. It's a very good manual, much, much better than the manual for my KTM 690 Enduro.

[wessie]

The footpeg bolts are a right bastard to get off - make sure you have quality tools. Even then, the cheese used by Yamaha for the fasteners may give way before the Loctite. Perhaps heat it up before attempting to loosen the bolts. I had one of the Allen bolts round off so I had to drill the head of the bolt so that I could force a Torx bit into the bolt. Fortunately, in my case, I was fitting a Givi kit and they provide bolts made of a more robust material.

[gce]

that is a nice set and a perfect example of tools not running too much.Cheers

Yeah, I was worried about the quality but these tools are built to last.  

[scotto]

I ended buying a decent set of T-handle hex allens from Amazon. They cost about $38 with free shipping due to wife's Prime account. I managed to find a set that had a 12mm as the largest because I remember someone saying that you need a 12mm for installing the heated grips. Most sets toped out at 10mm. I went to Lowes and was able to find an individual T-10 tamper proof driver in 3/8" drive for $3.50. Add a tube of blue locktight and for less than $50 your ready to go. I still managed to bung up two of the hex bolts (both on the small screws that attach to back of the footpeg holder) so be slow and careful, make sure you have them completely inserted and don't try to use the ball end of the T-handle. Still a lot cheaper than taking to a dealer and it is nice to do your own work when you can.
Edit:  Of course gce is correct.  A good set of hex allen sockets would be the best way to go.  That way you can use them on your torque wrench when you're tightening everything up.

[jo1000]

I couldn't get the rear wheel off and I have good tools. They sure put those bolts on tight from the factory.

[thespaceman]

I got a "tamper proof" Torx driver driver kit from Northern Tools for about $18. It looks like the typical Allen/hex tool with a bunch of blades that fold out from the handle. It worked nicely to install the lock kit.
 
My footpegs came right out with a 3/8" drive hex bit. A bit stiff at first, but steady pressure broke them loose, then they came right out. I had taken them off before the bags arrive to install the R&G "blanking plates." The bike looked pretty slick without the passenger pegs, but I put them back on since the installation guide said to bolt the luggage carrier to them. As heavy-duty as the luggage carrier is the passenger peg mount is probably superfluous, but I put them back on anyway. And they do hide the plain (ugly?) black luggage frame.

[balancepoint]

I did this job a couple weeks ago. I ended up running up to the hardware store to get the torx security bit for the lockset. Otherwise, a straightforward enough job.
 
I was a little surprised at the weight of the lower support bars for the cases. I'm not sure how they might have engineered something sturdy enough at a lot less weight- maybe a different rear foot peg hanger instead? Yikes. 
 
Anyway, all done it goes together pretty well. I agree the factory clamps their sh*t down pretty tight. I noticed that the first time I dropped the oil drain plug.

[clint]

Don't forget, the rubber bumpers have a top and bottom as it's slightly tapered. Wider part is on the bottom.
 

[luccas49]

Very easy install, t10 tamper proof can be found at just about any hardware store (I found mine at Ace). While there is a loctite on the stock Alan head bolts, it is removable just be careful not to strip the head. The only annoying thing is putting the bolt through the resovoir side and even that isn't too bad. Replace the loctite when putting the new bolts in and you should be just fine. I love my bags they are very handy.
 

[mhevezi]

Tamper proof torx? I just did my bags and didn't run into a need to remove the tamper-proof bolts on the subframe. Hmmm..
 
I did, however, strip the living sh--T out of one of the footpeg bolts and to make matters worse, the tip of my extractor tool broke off INSIDE the stripped bolt. Took me over an hour to get that one bolt off. And I sent 3 drill bits to an early grave in doing so. THANK GAWD the Yamaha kit came with better bolts.
 
For those about to rock- go get a proper Torx socket and use a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen those footpeg bolts. Or use a very strong impact wrench. Don't even attempt it any other way. Unless you are a glutton for punishment.
 
Yeah, the bag stabilizer mounts are beefy. Seriously. Probably could have gotten away with something a lot lighter, but it is what it is.

[skipperT]

Tamper proof torx? I just did my bags and didn't run into a need to remove the tamper-proof bolts on the subframe. Hmmm.. 
I did, however, strip the living sh--T out of one of the footpeg bolts and to make matters worse, the tip of my extractor tool broke off INSIDE the stripped bolt. Took me over an hour to get that one bolt off. And I sent 3 drill bits to an early grave in doing so. THANK GAWD the Yamaha kit came with better bolts.
 
For those about to rock- go get a proper Torx socket and use a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen those footpeg bolts. Or use a very strong impact wrench. Don't even attempt it any other way. Unless you are a glutton for punishment.
 
Yeah, the bag stabilizer mounts are beefy. Seriously. Probably could have gotten away with something a lot lighter, but it is what it is.

 
 
An impact driver that is beaten with a hammer will help. A impact wrench used with air probably won't - the blows from the tool get absorbed when used with torx or Allen bits.
 
Easiest way IMHO is to move the rear brake master cylinder and lines out of the way, and use a MAP gas torch to heat and soften the loctite. That's what worked best for me.
 
HTH Someone.
Skip