kifakw Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 my clutch cable broke recently (at the lever part) @ about 6000 KM in mileage. the only mod that i had was the alternative hand guard installation (KTM Handguards) the dealer said clutch cable is wear & tear, and i almost died while giggling. the only issue i saw was the bolt that was obstructing the cable but i highly doubt it is due to this that caused the cable to snap. oh and i replaced it with a Kawasaki Clutch Cable (Part No: 54011-1362). dealer tried it and said "it is not as smooth as a Yamaha clutch cable" ; i replied "as long as it doesn't break/snap, it is a good clutch cable for me" what is your take? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14166405/20150904_140210.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14166405/20150904_144739.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member peporter Posted September 28, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 28, 2015 my clutch cable broke recently (at the lever part) @ about 6000 KM in mileage. the only mod that i had was the alternative hand guard installation (KTM Handguards) the dealer said clutch cable is wear & tear, and i almost died while giggling. the only issue i saw was the bolt that was obstructing the cable but i highly doubt it is due to this that caused the cable to snap. oh and i replaced it with a Kawasaki Clutch Cable (Part No: 54011-1362). dealer tried it and said "it is not as smooth as a Yamaha clutch cable" ; i replied "as long as it doesn't break/snap, it is a good clutch cable for me" what is your take? https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14166405/20150904_140210.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14166405/20150904_144739.jpg That's quite different from what I thought it would be. I thought the break would come close to the ferrule. Was the break sudden or did it give way slowly? Do you think the Kawasaki cable is bigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kifakw Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 if the break is near to the ferrule, i'd understand as it is pretty common. i can't tell if the break was sudden or not; but i do know my biting point has shifted to a different point when the engine ran really hot. (when an engine is hot, it is normal for a biting point to be shifted to a different point) it is quite ridiculous for a new bike, steel braided clutch cable to break within 6000 KM. i wonder what went wrong. the break was when i was at gear 2, and i felt no tension at my clutch lever before coming to a abrupt stop. the kawasaki cable is slightly longer and the ferrule looks about the same in diameter. well slightly longer is always better than "just nice" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milo Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14166405/20150904_144739.jpg It's probably not what caused yours to break but one suggestion I'll offer is to always position the adjuster slot down to prevent water and dirt entering the cable. I just adjust for a very slight amount of free play then turn the adjuster clockwise (in) until the slot is down which adds just a bit more free play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimson04 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 I was on the my way into work the other day and I noticed my clutch had my play than usual. I adjusted it after work thinking that I may have just overlooked the adjustment. As I am getting off the highway I downshift a few gears and in 4th it let go. Mine broke right next to the ferrile. I pushed it the remainder 2 miles home and I took it into the dealer to get the warranty that I have avoided and the clutch cable done at the same time. I had 6600 miles when the cable broke. I'm just happy I didn't have to push the fjr lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechnic13 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 The design of the cable housing up near the perch is horrible , there are two press formed bends and no support between the two bends . This is where mine broke as well . I really think Yamaha needs to do a redesign on this cable , or hopefully MotionPro will see the high failure rate and design their own replacement cable for the FJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted October 27, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 27, 2015 I have just insured my clutch cable by buying a spare from Wemoto. £20 inc delivery. Almost guaranteed never to have a failure now. Might turn a profit if the go to back order... This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted October 27, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 27, 2015 oops - I thought it arrived quick. I was expecting it to be on back order. They have sent a FZ/MT09 cable, not a FJ/Tracer cable. Time to test customer services This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member jeff400650 Posted October 30, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 30, 2015 I got a spare and am planning to sister it along side the functioning cable on the bike, so if it breaks, the replacement will be right there and ready to hook up. Is it a pain to get to the cable? Need to pull gas tank I assume? Will there be room for 2 cables side by side? Pistons or pedals, 2 wheels are where it's at... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericm Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 I think the problem is the sharp bend in the cable as it leaves the short section with steel reinforcing. See the pics above. I wonder if it'd be possible to bend the steel section slightly using a small tubing bender so there is a gradual bend instead of the sharp bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenere2010 Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 A question for those who have actually fitted a new cable. I now have a spare cable taped to the original but when I examine the nipple end near the clutch I can't see how the new cable slips into the holder. There appears to be a thin slice of metal across the slot on the inside. Am I missing something simple? Any advice accepted gratefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member topher73 Posted November 11, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 11, 2015 When I used to trail ride, we would always put two clutch cables on the bike. Route the spare along with the first one, zip tie a sandwich bag over each end to keep dirt out. When the first cable fails, you simply swap the ends.Seems like a really smart easy pre-fix for any issues you may come across. Anyone here try this yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericm Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 The thin piece of metal across the slot where the cable nipple goes should be springy enough to bend out of the way when you pass the cable through the slot. (you undo the housing where it's mounted on the adjusting bracket on the cases first to get enough slack in the cable). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member wessie Posted November 11, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 11, 2015 my spare cable arrived from Wemoto - they said they would include a returns label for the incorrect part shipped, an MT09/FZ09 cable, but the label was not sent. Seems the MT/FZ09 clutch cable is 5cm or 2 inches shorter than the one for the FJ/Tracer. Otherwise the fittings are the same. This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenere2010 Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Thanks for the reply, you're right. I took off the circlip and arm today so I could turn it over and look at the underneath properly. The small slice of metal is a little flexible but I wonder how easily it would snap! Having the slot on top so the cable shouldn't fall out if the small metal tab breaks makes more sense to a bush mechanic like me. Anyway now have a good mental picture of how it works although if I need to fit the new cable I have already run, I will pull the circlip and arm so the new cable is easier to insert. Just don't lose the circlip! Tie wire anyone! Thanks again for your reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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