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Front Sprocket wear marks and chain tension.


Guest bruinfj09guy

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Guest bruinfj09guy
So I've read other threads talking about how the spec chain tension is a little tight. After running my chain for about 3k miles adjusted to spec (and regularly lubed) I noticed a "popping" noise while rolling my bike not running. The noise was a little louder when the chain was hot.
 
I inspected my chain and removed the front sprocket cover. There are some grooves where the outside of the chain fit in to what I'll call the outer hub of the sprocket. Are these grooves present on a new sprocket, or have I worn into the wells of the sprocket causing these grooves.
 
After re-lubing the chain and loosening slightly (to the outside rather than inside neighborhood of spec) the popping noise is less noticeable. I'm just wondering if I was actually over-tight and caused damage. See pic and opine freely. Perhaps I am over paranoid. I don't know.
 
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  • 2 weeks later...
the only reason to machine the sprocket like that is there isn't room for standard chain height. I don't see anything located remotely close in the pic above. Can we get a picture to the left that might show why Yam thought they needed to reduce overall diameter of the sprocket+chain? How many teeth on that sprocket? Maybe they designed the cases around say a 16 but then later decided a 17 was more appropriate but had to cut it down so the chain would fit.
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  • 4 weeks later...
the only reason to machine the sprocket like that is there isn't room for standard chain height. I don't see anything located remotely close in the pic above. Can we get a picture to the left that might show why Yam thought they needed to reduce overall diameter of the sprocket+chain? How many teeth on that sprocket? Maybe they designed the cases around say a 16 but then later decided a 17 was more appropriate but had to cut it down so the chain would fit.
What?  No... 
The sprocket diameter is completely dependent on the tooth count.  A 525 17t sprocket will be exactly the same diameter as any other 525 17t sprocket.  There is no way to "cheat the system" and make a smaller-diameter 17t sprocket.  As was mentioned before, the large "hub" area is supposed to contact the chain in order to quell side-to-side movement (and thus extra noise).
 
As a side note, Yamaha has said that the 1/2" slack mentioned in the manual is a typo.  I have been running 3/4-1" slack on mine, noise has been much less, I don't have to lube the chain as often (since it doesn't get as hot), and have 8,000 miles on the stock chain and sprockets with zero tight spots and no hooking of the sprockets.
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As a side note, Yamaha has said that the 1/2" slack mentioned in the manual is a typo.  I have been running 3/4-1" slack on mine, noise has been much less, I don't have to lube the chain as often (since it doesn't get as hot), and have 8,000 miles on the stock chain and sprockets with zero tight spots and no hooking of the sprockets.
Can you show the proof on this as I heard quite the opposite from multiple Yamaha Principals. I am hoping you can find the proof though. linky
 
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Personally I would ignore Yamaha's so-called spec for chain tension and adjust it for sufficient slack to be loose (not floppy) at all suspension positions. Nobody else in the industry runs chains that tight, so official admission or not, it doesn't change the fact that it's very obviously wrong.
 
Now, if you want to make a warranty claim against Yam for ruined counter-shaft bearing and seal, and pre-mature replacement for chain and sprockets, you're probably going to need an official statement of guilt.
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