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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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6 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

What I like about this forum is the hidden gems that you can stumble over!

Just when you think that you've found all of the bling, mechanical and electrical mods you can do etc, you find a diamond in the rough.

That diamond for me was the APS adjustment that piotrek detailed back in 2017.  How had I missed this??!!  It's a pearler, bonza, and a bloody beaudy!

If you're like me, own a pre-2017 Tracer and have been (apparently) living under a rock (like me), you might be interested in looking into this freebee improvement.  Do a search for APS in this forum and it's the one that piotrek started that ye seek.

At the risk of repeating what has gone before....  in a nutshell, the article explains how to adjust the Accelerator Position Sensor (APS) so that it smooths out (largely) that annoying on/off throttle snatch that is present for some of us pre 2017 vintage Tracer owners.

I did the adjustment and it definitely made a noticeable difference to how the bike performed on and off the throttle in all modes.

I had to redo my McCruise setup as a result but as a bonus, that seems to be smoother now as well!  Win Win. 🙂 

Thanks @piotrek.

FWIW my figures before and after (stock, adjusted) were: -

DIAG MODE - 14;  THROTTLE CLOSED: STOCK - 17;  ADJUSTED - 13

DIAG MODE - 14;  THROTTLE OPEN: STOCK - 101;  ADJUSTED - 97

DIAG MODE - 15;  THROTTLE CLOSED: STOCK - 18;  ADJUSTED - 14

DIAG MODE - 15;  THROTTLE OPEN: STOCK - 101;  ADJUSTED - 96

The above will make sense once you see the original post.

If you haven't done it and the snatchy throttle issue bothers you - check it out.  I now have a 'new' bike!

As always - YMMV.

Agreed, the APS adjustment is definitely the “hidden gem” mod for the ‘15-‘16 FJ’s (not sure about ‘17) AND ITS 100%FREE!

My closed settings were 17 from the factory, I set mine to 13 and then again down to 12. Love it👍🏻

Edited by betoney
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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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This weekend, I spoke with Tony from MC Cruise again. We finally traced down the issue to the tachometer lead. He told me to unplug that input to the cruise computer and take it for a ride to check. Sure enough, I went for a short ride yesterday and found that the cruise worked flawlessly. There is some electrical noise causing that input to trigger the cruise to disengage. The tach input is not needed to run the cruise, so I can leave it as-is until I trace down the source of the problem. I am really pleased with the guys at MC Cruise. They are great to work with.

I also received the Givi fog light mounting kit. I am not pleased with the bouncing that the Adventuretech light bar gives me with the heavy lights I have (not Adventuretech's fault, I like these lights a lot).

Today there was 5" of snow on the ground, and it will be coming down all week ... it will be a while before I can ride again. 

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40 minutes ago, betoney said:

Agreed, the APS adjustment is definitely the “hidden gem” mod for the ‘15-‘16 FJ’s (not sure about ‘17) AND ITS 100%FREE!

My closed settings were 17 from the factory, I set mine to 13 and then again down to 12. Love it👍🏻

I'm going to try this on my 17. I won't have any numbers to go by so It's going to be a trial and error thing. I'm going to mark the current position so I can go back to it if I have to. I'll post results. Actually, I should get an ODB II cable since I have a reader. That would probably be the smart thing before I try it.

 

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15 minutes ago, rodb47 said:

I'm going to try this on my 17. I won't have any numbers to go by so It's going to be a trial and error thing. I'm going to mark the current position so I can go back to it if I have to. I'll post results. Actually, I should get an ODB II cable since I have a reader. That would probably be the smart thing before I try it.

 

Unfortunately, I don’t remember which direction, CW or CCW, makes the values go up or down, so doing it blind (w/o the screen menu) would definitely be trial and error.  One thing to note, when you loosen the screw to rotate the sensor, you only make very minor changes, like 1-2mm. 

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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6 hours ago, betoney said:

Unfortunately, I don’t remember which direction, CW or CCW, makes the values go up or down, so doing it blind (w/o the screen menu) would definitely be trial and error.  One thing to note, when you loosen the screw to rotate the sensor, you only make very minor changes, like 1-2mm. 

The direction to decrease the numbers is CCW when looking from the right side of the bike.  And as Betoney says, very small movement only required.  Remember to keep the screws firm so you can just turn it under some friction.

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7 hours ago, rodb47 said:

 I'm going to mark the current position so I can go back to it if I have to.

@rodb47 - don't know about the '17 model but my '15 already had a white line drawn from the APS to the frame so it may already be there for you.  I didn't take a photo of my before and after but the line moved very little from its original position. A couple of mm at most I'd say. - FYI

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On 1/30/2020 at 11:39 PM, dazzler24 said:

This just arrived from Motostorm, Italy 🙂

Givi D2122S screen.  Have heard good things about this screen from those that are 'shaped' in a similar way to me so will be keen to fit and test out over the next week or so.  I like the look of it already 👍

d2122s_1.thumb.JPG.bf838bb9e7caf2a561700cff88bfa4a2.JPG

d2122s_2.thumb.jpg.6c9676689657e9dc5e7ede143aa178ae.jpg

Does the short screen use the stock bracket or the Givi bracket?

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3 minutes ago, 1moreroad said:

Does the short screen use the stock bracket or the Givi bracket?

Direct replacement.  It's the tall screen (2122DT) that needs the bracket.

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On 1/28/2020 at 9:03 PM, gomer said:

Good to know, thanks.

  On 1/28/2020 at 4:03 PM, gomer said:

Me again, more questions than a five year old. Your setup seems more professional and solid. You mentioned you bought a Garmin Drive 51LM but the cradle is for a Garmin Nuvi 50. Just wanted to make sure on the cradle before I order. Thanks. 

Correct.  I modified it with a Dremel tool to fit, the power buttons are in different locations, so I had to cut a hole to fit.  It is very stable and I have used the modified cradle for 2 seasons with zero issues.

 

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Got the cradle and the ball in the mail. Did you Mcgyver the cradle just so the power cord could plug or did you also do it for the little round power button on the back also?

Edited by gomer
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22 minutes ago, gomer said:
  On 1/28/2020 at 4:03 PM, gomer said:

Me again, more questions than a five year old. Your setup seems more professional and solid. You mentioned you bought a Garmin Drive 51LM but the cradle is for a Garmin Nuvi 50. Just wanted to make sure on the cradle before I order. Thanks. 

Correct.  I modified it with a Dremel tool to fit, the power buttons are in different locations, so I had to cut a hole to fit.  It is very stable and I have used the modified cradle for 2 seasons with zero issues.

 

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Got the cradle and the ball in the mail. Did you Mcgyver the cradle just so the power cord could plug or did you also do it for the little round power button on the back also?

I didn't do any modification for the power cable, only the round power button, my cradle already had an adequate cutout for the usb power.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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I finished up all the electrical add-ons for now:

MC Cruise

VisionX Optimus 10* spots on Givi light mount

Fuzeblock

W&S dual heat-troller

Halocam M1 dash cam

Dual USB port

Here is the light setup dimmed to 20% with a Skene dimmer. Goes 100% with the high beam. 

jODWGqP7sj7ZQw5uDweb2lp72ZApL7gMfljamH8-

Now I wish all the white stuff on the ground would go away!

 

 

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4 hours ago, betoney said:

I didn't do any modification for the power cable, only the round power button, my cradle already had an adequate cutout for the usb power.

I had to jigsaw about 5 extra millimeters to be able to plug the power in. There is no hole for the power button. All fixable just waiting for the mount from china to hook it up. I'll give you credit if anyone asks. 

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