What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?

[texscottyd]

1 hour ago, peteinpa said:

I'm guessing when the swing arm (and wheelbase) got longer the limiter got dropped.

What year was that?

That’s correct on the US-spec bikes, although I’m not sure of the rest of the world.  The Gen-1 FJ (2015-2017) was governed to 114 indicated, but that was removed with the introduction of the Tracer GT.  

If memory serves, the Tracers were introduced in 2018 as a 2019 model bike, so there technically isn’t a 2018 model year FJ or Tracer in the US.   

[knyte]

On 1/17/2021 at 5:01 PM, peteinpa said:

Good color match to that bronze paint?

EDIT: That part is black isn't it? 😣

If anything, it's a bit TOO dark!!  ...but barely noticeable, the shade is very close.  Not sure if these pics really illustrate it well enough (I'm certainly not concerned):

The only exterior difference is the "Made in Japan" area is blank (some markings on the inside are also missing, when compared to the original):

 

 

[knyte]

Flushed the brake lines with one of these - pricey, but worth every penny when considering how clean and fast the job becomes.  The old fluid was not quite brown, but very close.  Likely factory fluid.

Also sucked excess coolant from the reservoir.

[2and3cylinders]

17 hours ago, texscottyd said:

No idea what happened there...  I edited the post to get something different.   

The patio project looks nice!  I have several home projects that need to get back on track; most notably the workshop renovations &  improvements.  

Thanks, it's been a ton of work and cost way too much but it is what She Who Must Be Obeyed "wanted".

SWMBO search Rumpole of the Bailey, a Brit sitcom...

[2and3cylinders]

1 hour ago, knyte said:

Flushed the brake lines with one of these - pricey, but worth every penny when considering how clean and fast the job becomes.  The old fluid was not quite brown, but very close.  Likely factory fluid.

Also sucked excess coolant from the reservoir.

Choke, pricey!  I've used Mitt ads forever, and they work great for $30 now days.  Harbor Freight sells a brass bodied unit that's good too.  I like units with the vacuum gauge.  I tried a unit like yours which failed to work but waited too long to return it but it wasn't very expensive.

[knyte]

10 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

a unit like yours

The only 'issue', and it was minor, is that one of the front bleed valves was sucking a lot of air past the threads, resulting in a sort of 'straw slurping the last of the milkshake' for lack of a better description.  The other front valve and rear valve sucked out the fluid no problem at all, steady and solid stream.

[2and3cylinders]

I found the left front caliper bleed screw has been problematic with sucking air and but yellow Teflon tape on it and a dab of Grease around it when bleeding

Betoney, The Piston size stroke and leverage ratio of the 2014 R1 master cylinder mated with the 320 millimeter rotors seems a good match that's all I can say I'm not sure what the Piston size stroke and ratio is on the 2 R1 Master cylinders you've used is I'm sure there's a way to find out

 

[knyte]

12 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

the left front caliper bleed screw has been problematic

Yep, that was the one

[betoney]

2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I found the left front caliper bleed screw has been problematic with sucking air and but yellow Teflon tape on it and a dab of Grease around it when bleeding

I will check that on mine as well. 👍🏻

[piotrek]

2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I found the left front caliper bleed screw has been problematic with sucking air and but yellow Teflon tape on it and a dab of Grease around it when bleeding

I installed speed bleeders all around 3 seasons ago... recommend. The goop on the threads will eventually need to be re-applied, but so far so good... bleeding is a snap. Brakes work like a charm.

[2and3cylinders]

4 hours ago, betoney said:

I will check that on mine as well. 👍🏻

It should only be an issue when bleeding, I've considered replacing it either with OEM or aftermarket

[2and3cylinders]

4 hours ago, piotrek said:

I installed speed bleeders all around 3 seasons ago... recommend. The goop on the threads will eventually need to be re-applied, but so far so good... bleeding is a snap. Brakes work like a charm.

I hope you bought the stainless steel units because the standard units corrode because moisture collects at the lowest point in the system, the calipers.

I don't like them because you cannot use a vacuum or pressure bleeder with then installed and thus can only pump the MC lever which brings the O-rings on the piston down into the cruddy bottom of the cylinder bore...

[betoney]

7 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

It should only be an issue when bleeding, I've considered replacing it either with OEM or aftermarket

Would it be wise to wrap the threads on the oem bleeders?  Some sort of plumbers tape?

[2and3cylinders]

3 minutes ago, betoney said:

Would it be wise to wrap the threads on the oem bleeders?  Some sort of plumbers tape?

You must have missed me saying I use the yellow hydraulic fluid / natural gass resistant teflon tape stretched thin, and grease around the screw when bleeding, then dip that away with isopropyl alcohol when done so as not to attract dirt, etc

[piotrek]

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I hope you bought the stainless steel units because the standard units corrode because moisture collects at the lowest point in the system, the calipers.

Nope... not stainless, and no issues. Most OE bleeders aren't stainless. Bleed once a year and all's good. Long periods between service and in harsh environments... sure.

I used vacuum (large syringe) with okay results to help bleed after replacing lines, just to advance things a bit... but otherwise just a regular bleed process, only more convenient.

Edited January 20, 2021 by piotrek