What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?

[roy826]

7 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Ooooh, I like this windscreen.  If only Puig didn't overcharge horrifically, or if I weren't so cheap.

I paid $84 for it from Revzilla two months ago. I agree Puig stuff is pricey. The short screen I had on my Suzuki GSX-S1000 cost $168 but it had some elaborate metal bracket included.

[koth442]

13 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 Thanks but the link isn't working could you repost it?

As others mentioned, its the Ender 3. The link preview is broken, but you should be able to click it and get to the right place.

 

Sorry! Something went wrong!

 

[bwringer]

I spent a good chunk of yesterday and just wrapped up early this morning doing the first valve check on my new-to-me 2015 FJ-09 at 22,000 miles. A wee tad early, but it beats burning a day later in the season and besides, the valve clarances on these things are known to get pretty tight before the first check.

As expected, all the exhaust valves were well below the spec. The intakes were in spec but at the lower end. I ended up swapping or replacing all 12 shims and now all clearances are at the upper end of the range; .28 or .30 exhaust and .18 - .20 intake. Hopefully that will last for a while!

I'm pretty sure the cam chain tensioner is original; it has one white dot. It's working perfectly well, and there's no noise, so I'll just see what happens. If it starts making noise, I'll install a manual tensioner. After the slow aggravation of getting the bolts out with a shorty allen wrench, I replaced them with normal hex heads so I can just reach them easily with a ratcheting wrench from now on.

And of course, I did all the stuff you do while you're in the neighborhood; new OEM air filter, new spark plugs, new OEM valve cover gasket (not needed, but hey, it was only $12), drain and replace coolant, and synced the throttle bodies.

Found a few missing and incorrect fairing fasteners, and a few other slight pecker tracks from whoever pulled the tank to flash the ECU.

 

Notes:

- I just installed Givi crash bars. Aaaaand.... had to take them loose again to reach the timing plugs on the left, and the cam chain tensioner bolts on the right. Dammit, Givi, you could have moved that one bar just a wee bit so we could reach the timing plugs...

- This bike has, without question, the most difficult to see timing marks I have ever encountered. Holy crap that's a teensy hole that makes it nearly impossible to both get some light in the hole and see those impossibly faint markings.

- The difference between the proper position for checking clearances and the position for removing and replacing the camshafts is important but somewhat vague in both the Haynes and factory manuals. Almost missed that.

- I had to take the camshafts out twice; turns out one of my Hot Cams 1.90 shims was wonky. It measured OK in the middle, but basically it had been ground at an angle and didn't sit flat down in the valve keeper. First time I've seen that. I also fine-tuned a few other clearances, so it wasn't completely wasted effort. In the future I'll inspect new shims more carefully than just one micrometer measurement.

- Eight out of the 12 factory shims were those wonky in-between sizes. I was able to re-use two of these to fine-tune intake clearances. I'm never sure what to do with these in the shim box... they just sort of go in a spare spot.

- Both the factory and the Haynes manuals are remarkably obtuse and incomplete when it comes to dealing with the fairing pieces and fasteners for the first time. Really pretty aggravating, but after one very careful, very slow trip through the process, stripping the Tupperware should be pretty quick from now on. I love those quarter turn fasteners.

- As I've often found with other bikes, having both the aftermarket and factory service manuals on hand can be very helpful. Sometimes the blurry tiny photo in the Haynes can tell you something the vague cartoon diagram in the factory manual leaves out, and vice-versa. And the Haynes has useful workarounds for many of the weird special tools called for but never explained in the factory manual.

- The bike was wearing a brand new Dunlop Roadsmart III rear when I bought it, and I replaced the old front with a fresh RSIII because I've never liked that 2:1 stuff. An old front always feels old.

- The original low-rent factory chain was shagged, with at least two links spewing rust. (I fully expected this when I bought it), so it also got a fresh EK chain and JT sprockets. Flushed the brake fluid, lubed the cables, and it's 100% ready for a trouble free season!

- The difference between the cheap crappy factory chain and a high-quality EK ZVX3 is striking. I'll get some closeup photos later.

Edited March 1, 2021 by bwringer

[sirepair]

Yesterday finished new tires install, along with chain, sprockets, EBC HH pads front and rear, bleed brakes/fresh fluid, oil change and topped it off with a bath.  Ready to ride!

[2and3cylinders]

2 hours ago, bwringer said:

I spent a good chunk of yesterday and just wrapped up early this morning doing the first valve check on my new-to-me 2015 FJ-09 at 22,000 miles. A wee tad early, but it beats burning a day later in the season and besides, the valve clarances on these things are known to get pretty tight before the first check.

As expected, all the exhaust valves were well below the spec. The intakes were in spec but at the lower end. I ended up swapping or replacing all 12 shims and now all clearances are at the upper end of the range; .28 or .30 exhaust and .18 - .20 intake. Hopefully that will last for a while!

I'm pretty sure the cam chain tensioner is original; it has one white dot. It's working perfectly well, and there's no noise, so I'll just see what happens. If it starts making noise, I'll install a manual tensioner. After the slow aggravation of getting the bolts out with a shorty allen wrench, I replaced them with normal hex heads so I can just reach them easily with a ratcheting wrench from now on.

And of course, I did all the stuff you do while you're in the neighborhood; new OEM air filter, new spark plugs, new OEM valve cover gasket (not needed, but hey, it was only $12), drain and replace coolant, and synced the throttle bodies.

Found a few missing and incorrect fairing fasteners, and a few other slight pecker tracks from whoever pulled the tank to flash the ECU.

 

Notes:

- I just installed Givi crash bars. Aaaaand.... had to take them loose again to reach the timing plugs on the left, and the cam chain tensioner bolts on the right. Dammit, Givi, you could have moved that one bar just a wee bit so we could reach the timing plugs...

- This bike has, without question, the most difficult to see timing marks I have ever encountered. Holy crap that's a teensy hole that makes it nearly impossible to both get some light in the hole and see those impossibly faint markings.

- The difference between the proper position for checking clearances and the position for removing and replacing the camshafts is important but somewhat vague in both the Haynes and factory manuals. Almost missed that.

- I had to take the camshafts out twice; turns out one of my Hot Cams 1.90 shims was wonky. It measured OK in the middle, but basically it had been ground at an angle and didn't sit flat down in the valve keeper. First time I've seen that. I also fine-tuned a few other clearances, so it wasn't completely wasted effort. In the future I'll inspect new shims more carefully than just one micrometer measurement.

- Eight out of the 12 factory shims were those wonky in-between sizes. I was able to re-use two of these to fine-tune intake clearances. I'm never sure what to do with these in the shim box... they just sort of go in a spare spot.

- Both the factory and the Haynes manuals are remarkably obtuse and incomplete when it comes to dealing with the fairing pieces and fasteners for the first time. Really pretty aggravating, but after one very careful, very slow trip through the process, stripping the Tupperware should be pretty quick from now on. I love those quarter turn fasteners.

- As I've often found with other bikes, having both the aftermarket and factory service manuals on hand can be very helpful. Sometimes the blurry tiny photo in the Haynes can tell you something the vague cartoon diagram in the factory manual leaves out, and vice-versa. And the Haynes has useful workarounds for many of the weird special tools called for but never explained in the factory manual.

- The bike was wearing a brand new Dunlop Roadsmart III rear when I bought it, and I replaced the old front with a fresh RSIII because I've never liked that 2:1 stuff. An old front always feels old.

- The original low-rent factory chain was shagged, with at least two links spewing rust. (I fully expected this when I bought it), so it also got a fresh EK chain and JT sprockets. Flushed the brake fluid, lubed the cables, and it's 100% ready for a trouble free season!

- The difference between the cheap crappy factory chain and a high-quality EK ZVX3 is striking. I'll get some closeup photos later.

 I know what you mean about the GVK scars making it API TA to get the  Crank plug out

 I can't remember if it a 10 mm or 12 mm drive but they sell a ball end that you can grind about a quarter off and then sneak it past and get loose the plug believe it or not

 And then I fire recall I was able to get a socket on the crank bolt and rotated is needed and I use a degree wheel just set Cam timing that I trace on to the case believe it or not again

 I don't know I don't recall having trouble seeing the timing mark on the fly wheel or the indicator in the case

 All my vowels were tight and I check them within 10000  Miles later and they were still all good they make a tool to hold the cam chain sprocket  That is pretty cheap enough course use zip ties on the chain

But I can't remember if it was the intake Cam or the exhaust Cam because of valve Spring pressure not wanting to align perfectly and having to redo it  Again to get it right

 I installed the APE CCT after the technical service bulletin replacement also started making noise It's a lot easier to deal with than threating out the OEM CCT

 By the way if you want to replace the plugs again you can do it by just getting the radiator forward

I presume you got rid of the air injection reaction valve  Which ECU Flash turned off

 

 

[dazzler24]

Time for some cockpit tidying up so....

Inspired by @Rovari and the fact that I was never entirely happy with the location as it interfered with access to my SW-MOTECH Engage tank bag release mechanism, I moved my TPMS monitor out from the centre of the bars up onto my left hand mirror stalk.  I used some heavy duty rubber (mudflap duty) that I had handy and used a 1/4 inch tank bolt to secure both to the mirror stalk.  Seems secure but time will tell.

Swapped out my GIVI D2122S screen for my PUIG sport screen to get some more air on the body as the weather is just too hot here ATM.  Here they are for a size comparison.

Adjusted the Tom Tom 550 (with its flash new sunshade) so that the indicators (on the dash) are more visible from my riding position.

Modded my shed door opener so that I have an external button on my tank bag and can now activate the door as I approach and so allow me to drive straight in.  Can you see the button? 🙂

All little things but add up to a little more enjoyable ride experience IMHO.  YMMV of course.

 

Almost forgot, adusted my high beam to be level with my low beam so that both can now be on for daytime riding.  Rarely ride at night so no issue for me there.  If I need to get my high beam back then it's just a matter of winding the adjuster back out.

[bwringer]

21 hours ago, bwringer said:

- The difference between the cheap crappy factory chain and a high-quality EK ZVX3 is striking. I'll get some closeup photos later.

Yes, these are both 525 chains. Here's the leftover bit of the EK ZVX3 x-ring chain I installed compared to the crappy Yamaha original.

DID does make some great chains, but Yamaha obviously buys the absolute cheapest o-ring chain they can get away with. This one had two failed links spewing rust and loose at only 22,000 miles. The sprockets were a little worn but doing fine, FWIW.

Other brands make fine chains, too, but I just happen to be most familiar with EK chains, so that's what I buy. If you keep your eyes open on Amazon, EK chains pop up a lot with great pricing. The ZVX3 is one slot below their "ultimate" chain, the ZZZ, so it represents a very solid, reliable value for the money. I usually buy 120 link chains, since that's sort of a "standard" generic length, and the one found on sale most often.

I also installed a JT front sprocket with the rubber damper bit like OEM, and a JT rear sprocket, both in stock gearing; I've noticed there really haven't been any complaints about the FJ-09's gearing compared to other bikes where people are constantly monkeying with sprockets. I've always had excellent results with JT sprockets, and disappointing results with other brands. ("Driven" and "Pit Bull" in particular are garbage. The OEMs are usually Sunstar and are OK. JT sprockets are great, but their chains are not.)

I considered moving to a 530 chain as I have on my V-Strom DL1000 (530 chain is 1/8" wider than 525, with the same pitch) but I don't think that would work on the FJ-09; there's VERY little room to spare in that guard surrounding the front sprocket. Also, the front sprocket nut is a lot less... let's just say it's a lot more marginal than other bikes, with a lot less thread engagement, and it has to be replaced each time. I would absolutely not install a thicker front sprocket (although I'm not clear whether the 530 sprocket is thicker in the middle). On a DL1000, 530 chains have been proven to last at least 1.5 times as long as 525, so are well worth the modest added cost; that big L-twin seems to be pretty hard on chains.

 

BEEFY! Look how much more meaty the side plates are:

 

EXTREME CLOSE-UP! Just look at those THICC juicy side plates:

 

[2and3cylinders]

I go with EK, DID or RK but dropped to 520 last 2 sets, with 2 T up on the rear.  Sprocket Specialist sprockets super something have always lasted very well.  I get 20 ~ 24k miles a chain But ride in the rain a lot.  I like the lower gearing which reduces mileage just a bit.

[HGP61]

My Bike went for it's first MOT test today, Woo Hoo That's the Government department of transport safety check for our overseas friends. Counts as first run out of the year so far and I Managed to cover 30 miles from Home to the testing station (its only 6 miles from home) Air temp was sitting about 4 degrees C so felt a bit cold at times but it was fantastic to get back on the bike. Just need to pay for some road tax and I can be legal again. Passed the test as expected but advised that one of the suspension dog legs had a wee bit of movement on the top mounting point. something to put on the to do list for some point in the future.

[2and3cylinders]

3 hours ago, HGP61 said:

My Bike went for it's first MOT test today, Woo Hoo That's the Government department of transport safety check for our overseas friends. Counts as first run out of the year so far and I Managed to cover 30 miles from Home to the testing station (its only 6 miles from home) Air temp was sitting about 4 degrees C so felt a bit cold at times but it was fantastic to get back on the bike. Just need to pay for some road tax and I can be legal again. Passed the test as expected but advised that one of the suspension dog legs had a wee bit of movement on the top mounting point. something to put on the to do list for some point in the future.

It's normal side play in the linkage dogs, nothing can be done about it,  bolts are set length when tight. Both top and bottom move..

[dazzler24]

7 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I go with EK, DID or RK but dropped to 520 last 2 sets, with 2 T up on the rear.  Sprocket Specialist sprockets super something have always lasted very well.  I get 20 ~ 24k miles a chain But ride in the rain a lot.  I like the lower gearing which reduces mileage just a bit.

I've got one of these sitting on the shelf ready for when the old one gets tired ... or I get keen 🙂

Also got a pair of new sprockets ready for the changover as well.  16/46.  I couldn't get a 47 but one tooth more than standard should be OK as I'm not that unhappy with the standard gearing anyway.

The sprockets are German ESJOT brand. I hadn't heard of them before but they've been making sprockets since 1924 so I can only assume they know what they're doing.

On a side note it's interesting to read that the manufacturer of the chain says to not use Kerosene as a cleaner and to use plain, good old heavy gear oil (SAE80W-90) every 500kms as lube.

[peteinpa]

Volatile...You can put a cigarette out in Kerosene.

Kerosene is in the service manual. 

Strange.

Good I'm not a cleaner, just use more lube to clean.

[kilo3]

Took the bike for it's maiden voyage of 2021. Got about 30 miles before I called it quits. Too many salt ponds on the road, should be dried up by Friday.

[mingo]

@Rovari

@dazzler24

Have you installed the TPMS on the OEM rubber tire valve stems or have you replaced them with metal ones? Thanks. 

Edited March 3, 2021 by mingo

[dazzler24]

2 minutes ago, mingo said:

@Rovari

@dazzler24

Have you installed the TPMS on the OEM rubber tire valve stems or have you replaced them with metal ones? Thanks. 

I had already replaced my OEM stems with 90 degree metal ones at my last tyre change.