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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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13 hours ago, OZVFR said:

Here's a better picture. 
the mount I got from Italy, super strong and very well designed. Lights don’t move at all. 
 

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Noice lookin' bike!

Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia.   

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Eventually got round to putting some rubber 'D' type car door draught excluder. It's not perfect but it looks a bit better and hopefully will stop some rain running riot😃

 

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Edited by Mark Jackson
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So... I replaced the front brake switch because the recall switch was broken and wouldn't let me use cruise control.   And I got tired of waiting on the dealer so I just ordered the switch from PartZilla and it worked...

BUT...   I somehow knocked the cruise control button off the left-hand controls... the button to activate cruse is gone.   Mother F&*(!er ...    So since I doubt Yamaha would sell just that part... I now need to source a replacement left hand control cluster just to get the button for the cruise control.   I could potentially 3D print a replacement, but I don't have the source one to pattern it after and I don't want to risk breaking the mounting tabs for the button. 

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2 hours ago, Mark Jackson said:

Eventually got round to putting some rubber 'D' type car door draught excluder. It's not perfect but it looks a bit better and hopefully will stop some rain running riot😃

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Excellent idea. Do you have a product number the the material you used. Great Job!

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I forgot to reset my torque wrench while I was installing a belly pan bracket and snapped off an oil pan bolt. Those suckers are only torqued to 9.6 ft/lbs and my wrench was set at 32.😖 Had to remove the oil pan to get at it which entailed disconnecting the radiator from it's mounting points so I could drop the exhaust. Fortunately there was enough protruding to get a vise grip on it. I had just taken delivery on my new Abba Skylift which made the job a lot less painful. That thing is worth every penny.

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24 minutes ago, peteinpa said:

You should unwind your torque wrench to zero as soon as you are done using it for storage.

I actually do. I had used it on a different bolt just before I picked it up and performed my bone head move.

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4 hours ago, peteinpa said:

You should unwind your torque wrench to zero as soon as you are done using it for storage.

I never do that, just wait for display to shut off 🤣

It’s also NOT advisable to use a 3/8” drive torque wrench on a fastener that calls for 12 Nm of torque.

-Skip

Edited by skipperT
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On 8/4/2022 at 4:16 AM, Mark Jackson said:

Eventually got round to putting some rubber 'D' type car door draught excluder. It's not perfect but it looks a bit better and hopefully will stop some rain running riot😃

 

Pic 01.jpg

Pic 03.jpeg

 

Pic 04.jpeg

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Pic 06.jpeg

Pic 07.jpg

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On 8/4/2022 at 6:34 AM, Heli ATP said:

Excellent idea. Do you have a product number the the material you used. Great Job!

I totally agree with Heli on this!  Looks good and functional as well. 👌

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3 hours ago, skipperT said:

I never do that, just wait for display to shut off 🤣

It’s also NOT advisable to use a 3/8” drive torque wrench on a fastener that calls for 12 Nm of torque.

-Skip

I am a carpenter by trade and a wanna-be shade tree mechanic so advice is welcome. What is wrong with using the 3/8 on a low torque bolt? (The wrench is not digital)

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It’s too big a torque wrench for 12lb I use a 1/4” for anything under 20lb, 3/8” for anything over, and my 1/2” for anything over 50lb. 

Right tool for every job. Not everyone has such range, but a 1/4” torque wrench is very useful for working on bikes as they use lots of small bolts on soft aluminium cases. 

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3 hours ago, OZVFR said:

It’s too big a torque wrench for 12lb I use a 1/4” for anything under 20lb, 3/8” for anything over, and my 1/2” for anything over 50lb. 

Right tool for every job. Not everyone has such range, but a 1/4” torque wrench is very useful for working on bikes as they use lots of small bolts on soft aluminium cases. 

For small fasteners the TW in my wrist has served me well for almost 50 years, and needs very infrequent calibration.  I've found mechanical TW sometimes have a difficult time with threads in aluminum and especially plastic substrates, and while I know it's much more expensive and technically difficult to accomplish due to the wide variance in their coefficients of thermal expansion, I wish manufacturers would utilize stainless steel or better titanium threaded inserts in such soft substrates. 

Also, several industries for decades now, from bridge construction to aerospace, have been utilizing programable and even fully automated hydraulic wrenches.  Torque is an "artificial" expression of stress in a threaded fastener as determined "practically" and dynamically (now also verified with computer programs) using a Skidmore "gauge" apparatus to translate the stress in psi to pound feet or inches of torque. 

Nuf said.

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