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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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4 hours ago, OZVFR said:

It’s too big a torque wrench for 12lb I use a 1/4” for anything under 20lb, 3/8” for anything over, and my 1/2” for anything over 50lb. 

Right tool for every job. Not everyone has such range, but a 1/4” torque wrench is very useful for working on bikes as they use lots of small bolts on soft aluminium cases. 

What would be a good, but not break-the-bank 1/4” torque wrench? I love my 3/8 Kobalt, but Lowes doesn’t have a 1/4”.

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5 hours ago, OZVFR said:

It’s too big a torque wrench for 12lb I use a 1/4” for anything under 20lb, 3/8” for anything over, and my 1/2” for anything over 50lb. 

Right tool for every job. Not everyone has such range, but a 1/4” torque wrench is very useful for working on bikes as they use lots of small bolts on soft aluminium cases. 

Got it. Thanks.

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Tried to remount my gas tank.  The doggone thing won't fit.  I'm going crazy.

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18 minutes ago, scjaws said:

Tried to remount my gas tank.  The doggone thing won't fit.  I'm going crazy.

Good news is that if it came off, it will go back on.  Just need to figure out the secret handshake….  

is it sliding up into the mounts at the front?   If so, and the back isn’t settling all the way down, is there a fuel or vacuum line that got in the way when things were re-attached?  

Don’t force it…  

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13 hours ago, 2NDCHILDHOOD said:

I am a carpenter by trade and a wanna-be shade tree mechanic so advice is welcome. What is wrong with using the 3/8 on a low torque bolt? (The wrench is not digital)

I’m late to reply here, and the other guys chimed in already with good advice -  Here’s my $0.02…

Nothing really wrong but bear in mind a torque wrench is really only accurate in the middle 80% or so of it’s range. So if the scale of your 3/8 is 5-100 ft Lbs for example, it’s not going to be very accurate at 5-10 or 90-100 foot lbs (rough numbers). If you tighten the fastener slowly you can get by, but it’s best to use a wrench where the torque value you are trying to achieve falls more in the middle of its range. 

my digital SnapOn torque wrenches are a bit more forgiving because they are more accurate than the more common mechanical style ones. However I still use a 1/2” drive wrench for axle torque (67-110ft) or a 1/4” drive wrench for a smaller fastener that requires 6, 7, 8 and 10 ft lb (for example)

(this is probably a bad analogy but it would be like using a framing hammer to install shingles on a roof?)

on a side note, that Abba lift stand in your pictures is wicked!

-skip
 

 

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4 hours ago, 3sum said:

What would be a good, but not break-the-bank 1/4” torque wrench? I love my 3/8 Kobalt, but Lowes doesn’t have a 1/4”.

See if Stanley tools sells one near you. They purchased the Mac tools brand a decade or so ago and might make a 1/4” under their less expensive brand. Or try Husky from Home Depot. Napa auto parts stores sometimes stock common tools in the US along with Ace hardware locations. 

spend at least a $100 US, imho. 
you can also try pawn shops or FB marketplace, but a used torque wrench is a dice roll unless you plan on spending $125 to send it out for calibration. 
-Skip

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18 minutes ago, skipperT said:

I’m late to reply here, and the other guys chimed in already with good advice -  Here’s my $0.02…

Nothing really wrong but bear in mind a torque wrench is really only accurate in the middle 80% or so of it’s range. So if the scale of your 3/8 is 5-100 ft Lbs for example, it’s not going to be very accurate at 5-10 or 90-100 foot lbs (rough numbers). If you tighten the fastener slowly you can get by, but it’s best to use a wrench where the torque value you are trying to achieve falls more in the middle of its range. 

my digital SnapOn torque wrenches are a bit more forgiving because they are more accurate than the more common mechanical style ones. However I still use a 1/2” drive wrench for axle torque (67-110ft) or a 1/4” drive wrench for a smaller fastener that requires 6, 7, 8 and 10 ft lb (for example)

(this is probably a bad analogy but it would be like using a framing hammer to install shingles on a roof?)

on a side note, that Abba lift stand in your pictures is wicked!

-skip
 

 

Good info. Thanks Skip. The stand is phenomenal. You can raise the front, the rear or level. Giving my Pitbull and the black pipe lift I made to my brother in law for his new FJR since I won't need them anymore. 

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51 minutes ago, scjaws said:

Tried to remount my gas tank.  The doggone thing won't fit.  I'm going crazy.

 

30 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

Good news is that if it came off, it will go back on.  Just need to figure out the secret handshake….  

is it sliding up into the mounts at the front?   If so, and the back isn’t settling all the way down, is there a fuel or vacuum line that got in the way when things were re-attached?  

Don’t force it…  

I agree with @texscottyd  I just had my tank removed yesterday to clean my air filter. 

On the front, you can pull the sides out a few millimeters to clear the mount points, on the rear you have to make sure that the plumbing and electrical on the rear of the tank are tucked in correctly out of the way and it will drop into place.  If you have to use ANY pressure to get it to fit, then something isn't correct

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Gave the old girl a brake fluid and coolant change today as it's been 2 years since the brakes were done and almost 3 years for the coolant.

Using the vacuum method on the brakes sure does make the job that much easier.

Exciting stuff eh!?  She appreciated it, I'm sure. 😉

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Good Dad!

Did the same last winter as part of my major service which besides valve lash, plugs, tb sync also added fork dump flush fill.

MityVac is a well known brand of manual vacuum bleeder that needs no air compressor 

MITYVAC MV8000 AUTOMOTIVE VACUUM TEST AND BLEED KIT

For evacuating and filling cooling systems I also use a vacuum tool that does require a compressor.  There are now cheap knock offs though the original is built for professionals 

UVIEW 550000 AIRLIFT COOLING SYSTEM TESTER

 

 

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18 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Good Dad!

Did the same last winter as part of my major service which besides valve lash, plugs, tb sync also added fork dump flush fill.

MityVac is a well known brand of manual vacuum bleeder that needs no air compressor 

MITYVAC MV8000 AUTOMOTIVE VACUUM TEST AND BLEED KIT

For evacuating and filling cooling systems I also use a vacuum tool that does require a compressor.  There are now cheap knock offs though the original is built for professionals 

UVIEW 550000 AIRLIFT COOLING SYSTEM TESTER

Both good toys to have by the looks of things 2&3.

Would have been nice to have something like the UVIEW for the coolant flush but I had to do it old school.  Drained, then flushed with non-mineralised fresh water while squeezing the hoses to purge as much as possible, then adding some coolant, doing another drain to get the water out and finally filling with new coolant.

Not perfect but it'll do.  At least I make the attempt - I know one guy that hasn't changed his original brake or coolant fluid since new in 2015!!

Sacrilege!  Also not doing the bike's internals any favours either.

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Mine being a q5 bought new in 16 I changed the oil assoon a I got it home.  Then rode it like I stole it for wear-in (break-in), as I'm of that philosophy for modern engines, not anything older than 2004 or anything rebuilt.

I flushed the brakes tat first season and the coolant early the following year.

I've drained, flushed and refilled with distilled water (of course) cooling systems first without the Uview then immediately again with it and compared how much fluid drained and how much was again needed to refill.  The delta was 20% !  A significant amount when the small capacity of motorcycles (or inversely large volume in trucks) is considered.

The beauty of the Uview is it sucks the hoses flat, holds the vacuum then sucks in the fresh coolant directly from the jug.  No fuss, no mess and super fast and easy.  I have always have only then needed to only add an ounce if that to top off the rad!

I'm heading out for a ride this morning as it should be gorgeous after 3 days of rain. heat and humidity one could cut with a knife.  It's been over week but in the interim I've replaced the FJs chain, and been giving the also fastest red VTR a lot of TLC!  Bling!

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1 hour ago, dazzler24 said:

Good to see you getting out and about lately. 👌👍🙂

Thanks!

How's by you?

It's tough though.  Out of shape and overweight is an understatement  x 5

I still have to mount and dismount using the left footpeg, as my back lacks flexibility and getting painful again off the bike but not from riding.   One day the side stand is going t😵💫

And my shoulder has to be redone but I'm waiting till winter 😞

And then there's my neck, elbow, other shoulder and hands LOL

it's funny I can ride but not walk far.

Activating the turn signals, horn and CC is painful ha!

ah well, it always could be worse!

Rubba sude down mate!

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