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What did you do to your FJ-tracer-gt today?


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3 hours ago, Rick123 said:

Givi mounting plate and Givi E460 installed too. Working on Oxford heated grips and skid plate…

Heated grips and skid plate installed. Ready to go. 

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On 2/11/2023 at 5:54 PM, Clegg78 said:

I did a bit of weigh reduction on the bike today :)   Biggest PITA was draining the tank a bit, it was full and I didn't want to deal with moving it around like that...  and my gas pump failed so there was a bit of a mess using a vacuum pump to start a siphon.     Tomorrow, I drain the coolant, and remove the radiator (since I am doing the valves and coolant no reason to keep the radiator strapped to the front for the whole ordeal. ), and start checking valves, and doing the plugs. 

A minor PITA, but the Givi crash bars block the opening to turn the engine over for the valve job. 

2023-02-11_16-49-38.jpg

No need to remove the radiator, just tip it down & forward with a towel on the fender; no hoses need ne detached.  I vacuum drain, flush and fill.  Fast and clean, most thorough.

Grind down the ball end of the hex and case guards need not be touched...

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3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

No need to remove the radiator, just tip it down & forward with a towel on the fender; no hoses need ne detached.  I vacuum drain, flush and fill.  Fast and clean, most thorough.

Grind down the ball end of the hex and case guards need not be touched...

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20200815_132850.jpg

Bigger issue I had was getting the cam tensioner out with the givi bars on, so I removed them from both sides.    And since I am draining cooling system and refilling, it was easier to remove the radiator than keep it on. 

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Like most -  For the valve adjustment at 20K miles - all exhaust valves were tight, most were a bit under the lower part of the tolerance band, with one being dangerously tight (like .16mm)

All the intake valves were in spec with 2 of them on the tighter side of the tolerance, going to try and fix that... hard when the increments for 7.48mm valves is half the tolerance band!   

Now I wait for shims to get delivered, but I may call around seeing if anyone has any odd sizes as the closest thing I can get for the one of the exhaust put it .303 which is marginally too much gap, but also a bit off from the rest of the exhaust valves. 

Plugs looked great for 20K miles.  Replaced them anyway, the gaps were even in band so very little erosion or anything. 

My one screw up is I forgot to take a picture of the cams before releasing the cam tensioner and I am pretty sure one of them rotated a bit... so I just gotta spend some time ensuring timing is right. 

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Edited by Clegg78
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You can order ProX shims from RockyMountainATV, they come in -in-between sizes.

The exhaust cam has pressure on it, which makes it rotate.  You'll have to rotate it into position (with a tool) and place the chain....

If you can slog through these videos......

 

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Just ordered some shims :) I am going to be flush with them by end of the week!  the video series above is great,  I was curious about the cam tool to rotate against the exhaust valve springs loading and just bought one on Ebay to keep things simple.

The CCT looks like it is going to be an event, seems a good bit more complex than my Triumph was!

 

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Whelp - valve adjustment done. 

All intakes are now at .15+ 

Exhaust is also OK... not perfect, I am not sure what happened- 2 valves are on the tight side of the margin .25++ but not quite .28 ( could probably get the .28 through if I forced it).   The rest are .28 or +.  I second guessed my writing on my initial checks I think and read a .23 as .20, kicking myself, I wanted them all at .28.   But it's all in spec it will be fine till the next check.   I did find the ProX shims to be quite wild in their variance.  Ended up using some of the Hot Cams shims in place. 

It's still in spec and FAR better than it was... 

Reassembly was easy. I love the Permatex assembly lube. (Only mess up on reassembly was forgetting to put the chain on the cams before bolting them in and not being able to get it past the not on the cam sprocket. 

Timing was relatively easy to get set, initially I was off a tooth overall on the crank side.   I designed 2 wrenches to let me adjust the timing easily by rotating both sprockets at the same time.   Using the Zip Tie method that the video above used to then hold the chain on the sprocket.   The tool to the left is the new design I ended up settling on, if you print 2 of that that's all you need.    you can hold both with one hand to offload the stress on the chain and then zip tie them in place with the other.   I'll get the part posted to download in the coming days. 

Now onto getting the cooling system installed and refilled.  Then balancing the throttle bodies. 

2023-02-17_21-12-48.jpg

Edited by Clegg78
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On 1/20/2015 at 6:58 PM, Cruizin said:

Those are the bags that I will be going with. I really like soft bags and they don't break when you low side or drop the bike. And the reflection is an awesome safety feature.
 

 Do you use any racks to support them?

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3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 I bought one for like 12 bucks from K&N and a big set of 90゚ needle nose pliers work well too

 

 

 

 

 

Fair, this is about $1 in material and 30 minutes of print time :)  And unlike pliers I can easily rotate both cam sprockets with one hand. 

 

Edited by Clegg78
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And it lives, got the cooling system back on filled, and fired right up.   Let it come to temp, and nothing odd, the engine sounds good (it did before as well), now onto syncing the throttle bodies, then to replacing the chain/sprockets. 

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I rode the bike for the first time since getting the valves shimmed and valve bodies synchronized, new plugs, and maybe placebo, but the bike feels feisty and smooth.   Happy no leaks found. 

Got home and put a new DID VX3 gold chain on the bike and new front sprocket.   My order of new front and rear locknuts for the sprockets looks like it tore open in transit... I ended up with one rear sprocket nut...   So going to see if any dealers are open tomorrow to get them, then I can finish and put the rear sprocket on.  Then the hardware part of the work on the bike. 

Then just need to change the oil and good to go for many miles.     

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