High beam "+" wire

[washufiddyfo]

my aux light negative supply line goes into 85. do i remove it from the relay socket and connect it directly to the battery (-) and connect the 85 to 30 of the relay socket?

You should be able to connect the negative from the driving lights either directly to the battery, or tap into a ground wire under the windshield or anywhere else.  And yes, 85 and 30 should be jumped per the schematic posted earlier.  
This is only for the negative switching using the high beam wire, which changes up what goes where on the relay to work. If you are doing a standalone install with a separate switch then 85 on the relay is usually grounded.

[FJ29ER]

Has anybody had any issues tapping into the high beam signal?

Why cant it be tapped into at the handlebar switch itself?

Maybe it is only a temp signal sent to the computer, not a constant signal..?

Only heard of one person having issues...

I would rather not have a switch on the handle bar.

[jdavis]

I have a Skene controller on my spotlights. This makes them running lights with low beam and spotlights with high beam. I have them switched from the rear of the headlight controller at the base of the lights.

[FJ29ER]

4 hours ago, jdavis said:

I have a Skene controller on my spotlights. This makes them running lights with low beam and spotlights with high beam. I have them switched from the rear of the headlight controller at the base of the lights.

Have you been running it like that for awhile? I will see if my lights are dimmable

[bigorangecntry07]

5 hours ago, jdavis said:

I have a Skene controller on my spotlights. This makes them running lights with low beam and spotlights with high beam. I have them switched from the rear of the headlight controller at the base of the lights.

Can you tell me how you've got it wired? I have this as well and tapped into the back of the light controller and I can't get it to function properly. The lights are working right now but dim when I hit the high beams. 

 

[FJ29ER]

2 hours ago, bigorangecntry07 said:

Can you tell me how you've got it wired? I have this as well and tapped into the back of the light controller and I can't get it to function properly. The lights are working right now but dim when I hit the high beams. 

 

"I used the blk/yl wire out of the LED controller under the headlights to tap into for my relay trigger. There are two coming out, pick the one on the HB side. 15 model."

 

 

 

THIS WAS HIS ANSWER IN THIS THREAD    

[FJ29ER]

4 hours ago, bigorangecntry07 said:

Can you tell me how you've got it wired? I have this as well and tapped into the back of the light controller and I can't get it to function properly. The lights are working right now but dim when I hit the high beams. 

 

If you have the white wire from the skene controller tapped into the yellow or yell/black wire from the led controller it will not work. That is creating a "ground/negative" signal, so thats why it dims(basically is backwards from how it should be acting). You need a "power/positive" signal. So you have to have a negative switching signal in between that connection. It is a pain. I am currently getting all parts required to do this. Hoping to have it done in a month or less. Commute will be doubling though dark mountain roads so I need all the light I can get!

Edited September 9, 2020 by FJ29ER

[jdavis]

18 hours ago, FJ29ER said:

Have you been running it like that for awhile? I will see if my lights are dimmable

I have my Skene controller wired for 20% low beam(yellow not connected). I have tried to manually adjust the power, but I think the Tracer wiring does not allow programming with the HB switch.

I have the HB trace going through a relay to power and also a wire from the relay (87) to White wire.

 

Edited September 10, 2020 by jdavis

[draco_1967]

4 hours ago, jdavis said:

I have my Skene controller wired for 20% low beam(yellow not connected). I have tried to manually adjust the power, but I think the Tracer wiring does not allow programming with the HB switch.

I have the HB trace going through a relay to power and also a wire from the relay (87) to White wire.

 

I have a Skene wired up to mine as well through a relay wired for negative switching. 

You can adjust the brightness, but you can't use the high beam switch. You need a + signal to get the Skene dimming adjustment function to work. I just jumpered it to the + on the battery to set the brightness level, then reconnected it to the relay. 

Here is a diagram of how to wire the relay to switch with a negative input:

[jdavis]

9 minutes ago, draco_1967 said:

I have a Skene wired up to mine as well through a relay wired for negative switching. 

You can adjust the brightness, but you can't use the high beam switch. You need a + signal to get the Skene dimming adjustment function to work. I just jumpered it to the + on the battery to set the brightness level, then reconnected it to the relay. 

Here is a diagram of how to wire the relay to switch with a negative input:

So you connected the 'white' to battery at startup, broke the connection for each increment of adjustment, then when you have the right brightness, you turned the bike off and then reconnect the 'white' to HB. Sound right?

[draco_1967]

54 minutes ago, jdavis said:

So you connected the 'white' to battery at startup, broke the connection for each increment of adjustment, then when you have the right brightness, you turned the bike off and then reconnect the 'white' to HB. Sound right?

Yes, pretty much. The white is connected through the relay to the HB. 

[bigorangecntry07]

Jesus, way to make it complicated hahaha

[bugie]

Was hoping to do this but was hoping to tap into the +ve wire of the headlight switch on the handlebars (as opposed to the main wiring harness going into the light control unit). would anyone happen to know what colour wire would be the right one

[mellow]

On 8/14/2016 at 11:01 PM, washufiddyfo said:

So after staring at the boxes in my garage for quite a few months now, and a few life events delaying my install, I finally got some cool weekend weather where the garage wasn't 100 degrees, and took the opportunity to wire up my flush mount turn signals and the adventuretech light bar with the 18 watt nilights on each side.  
 
The motodynamic flush mounts were a breeze. I'll try to put those details in another thread more related to that topic. 
 
The light bar went on fine as well. For the yellow wire needed for high beam switching, I chose to positap it right by the connector to the headlight module.  There are two harnesses, the big one has two yellows on it.  I pulled that out and first tried the yellow with black stripe, and when tested it didn't work, but the yellow next to it with the brown bars was the one I needed.  Set the tap to point up when the harness was clipped back in.  I ran that wire up to 86 on the relay which I tucked under the windshield.  Since I didn't have the right gray connectors I just positapped one of the accessory plugs for switched power and ground.  Power went to 30 and jumped to 85 per the diagram below.  87 hot out to lights red, and the lights black came back up to the accessory ground tap.  
 
 

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Thanks for the pics.. Finally got mine all wired up, was going to just resort to the positively switched separate switch but I hate that option so rewired the relay and works perfectly!

I also found a couple of images on amazon for relays that showed the difference between the 2 ways to wire relays:

 

Edited November 3, 2020 by mellow