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Ordered Ohlins cartridges and shock today.


sixcharlie

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  • 4 weeks later...
Okay, so I've got ~600 miles / 1000km on the Ohlins now so I'd like to share my thoughts.
 
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I've spent more than a decade in and around powersports stores.  I'm retired now so this is in the past, though I still have close friends in the business.  Many years ago Ducati taught me about suspension.  
 
Leading customers on back to back test rides through a route I knew like the back of my hand on two versions of the same bike really taught me how to first feel, and then use the capabilities of the forks and shock.  
 
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This was pre financial crisis, so one of my job perks was a track bike.  Left over '06 Ducati Sport 1000.  The strangely colored orange one.  We painted some bits, swapped some other bits with bad parts from other bikes that were replaced under warranty and cut some bits.  
 
Since this is NASCAR country, eventually a guy who builds shocks walked in looking for referrals and after telling him my complaints about the Ducati at the track, he offered to build a rear shock for the Sport 1K.   It had non-adjustable 43mm marzocchis up front.  I hated the non-adjustable part but after many track days I finally admitted I didn't know what I would adjust if I could.  I had no issue with them.  
 
The bike did chatter a lot under braking and this new shock took all of it out and I was shedding seconds off my lap times.
 
I talked to a guy who knows more about suspension than me, communicated what my complaints were and what my expectations were, he took that feedback and delivered me exactly what I asked for.
 
This is the take away.  If you are going to spend the money, be involved.
 
 
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Being a powersports veteran, I got my local shop to become an Ohlins USA dealer.  All they have to do is fill out a form and copy their business license, there is no buy in so no risk to them.  Once that was done I called Ohlins USA and spoke with a tech.  Ohlins USA is geographically close to me.  I've talked to them many times, seen them at shows, etc.  I wanted to talk to them because I wanted to be a happy customer.
 
How to be a happy customer:  Don't buy off the shelf.  
 
In my experience the stock Ohlins settings are on the hard side.  I was still in the industry when the FJ/MT-09 was announced and it caught my interest immediately.  Learning about it and looking at MSRP I knew the suspension was going to be the cost cutting, price point sacrifice.  
 
I test rode the bike, didn't like the tires or the suspension but loved the motor.  So I got one, knowing I could improve it with the help of my friends.  I did the Akra system, PR4s and added preload front and back and struggled with rebound.
 
It was better but I avoided every bump in the road I could.  It was harsh feedback, both the initial jolt, and the rebound.  Time to call Ohlins.
 
I talked to two different tech who told me the same thing.  I made it clear that I didn't want springs that were too hard.  I fibbed about my weight by 5lbs, said no pillion passenger and my riding style was relaxed / urban.  I stressed "give me the ability to adjust it stiffer" and that was the best decision I've made of late.
 
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Both techs at Ohlins USA recommended the same fork kit, shock and springs.  The FGK 237 30mm fork kit, YA 335 shock and springs one step softer than stock.  This is the off the shelf FJ/MT-09 set up.  The YA 335 rear is a price point unit.  It lacks compression adjustment and doesn't have a remote reservoir.   Normally things I don't like but I figured if I hate it, one of you will buy it off me and I'll upgrade.  I love it so no soup for you.
 
 
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The Ohlins looks backwards from the stock shock.  The large body you see in the middle is the oil reservoir.  I have no heat complaints about the triple and that eased my desire for a remote reservoir.  I had bike with remote pre-load adjusters and while nice, I rarely used it, even when I carried a pillon passenger.  
 
Guess I should get to the point now.  With pre-load nearly maxed out and rebound at the same, I was avoiding every imperfection in the road I could while enjoying the corners.  Now, I seek out any bump I can see, feel it and giggle.  She's even less wheelie prone (I don't like wheelies).  With my spring choice, at base line settings for compression (front), rebound (front and rear) and sag set (rear) I feel like I have to take her to the track to make further adjustments.
 
 
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I thought about making a "how to" video but ultimately decided this isn't a casual DIY.  I've done fork seals, changed fork oil and even fork springs before.  And collected some needed tools along the way.  I still needed to buy two Ohlins special tools and borrow a factory tool from the dealer.  For the Ohlins, I needed the socket required to torque down the cap (see picture above) and a simple threaded rod to pull the cartridge dampning rod up to install the cap.  The factory tool I borrowed when I discovered I couldn't hold the stock cartridge to unthread it.  The Ohlins cartridge slots in place, not special tool needed.
 
If you haven't done something like this yourself before, you'll save by paying for someone else to do it.
 
Above are the top caps, stock on the left, Ohlins on the right.  You can see the threads of how the stock cap (left) compresses the stock fork spring.  The Ohlins have the spring further down the leg but use a similar method for pre-load.  I have yet to make an adjustment, my sag checked out.  The stock top cap took a beating coming off.  A 12 point craftsman socket rounded off the corners and I had to use a six point craftsman inch equivalent to loosen them, still with damage.  Good thing they are not reused.  Did that with them still clamped in the triples.  Good luck trying it any other way.  
 
Once armed with the special tool from Yamaha the fork disassembly was a piece of cake.  One the cartridge was out, I could compare it to the Ohlins kit.  
 
 
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Stock on top, Ohlins below.  I did my best to line the parts up in order of assembly.  Notice the difference in the caps, the length of the springs and the diameter of the cartridges.  Ohlins cartridge is cut off but I measured it and it's something like 14mm larger.  Ohlins progressive springs are shorter.
 
 
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A little bit closer shot of the shims and valve.  Again, stock on top, Ohlins below.  Again the Ohlins is backwards from stock, the valve is much bigger, more shims.  
 
Once I had the special tool, the second fork took me maybe 25 minutes from off the bike to back on the bike.  The rear shock took longer.  It's tight back there and I exhausted my brass punches and had to get creative to drive the bolts out.  Hence, this isn't a DIY.
 
It's absolutely wonderful.  I recommend, but be involved in the spring decision, don't buy off the shelf.
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"The stock top cap took a beating coming off. A 12 point craftsman socket rounded off the corners and I had to use a six point craftsman inch equivalent to loosen them, still with damage. Good thing they are not reused. Did that with them still clamped in the triples. Good luck trying it any other way. "
 
Read more:
http://fj-09.org/thread/2442/ordered-ohlins-cartridges-shock-today?page=1#ixzz3qSiFYe6K
 
Did you loosen the top triple? If only the bottom is tight, and top loose, the cartridge should be tight enough and allow you to remove the top cap w/o buggering up the hex bolt.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 years later...
On 11/3/2015 at 3:19 PM, redfjniner said:

Added post to How to section. Nice write up and photos:
 
 Hmo3Rte.jpg.
 
 
 

I was looking at this shock, but it's not listed for a '15 FJ on Ohlins page. Does anyone know if this will fit a '15?

Cheers!
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43 minutes ago, hammer said:

I was looking at this shock, but it's not listed for a '15 FJ on Ohlins page. Does anyone know if this will fit a '15?

I put this on the FJ and it is almost impossible to adjust while on the bike.  I wouldn't recommend it.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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35 minutes ago, redfjniner said:

I put this on the FJ and it is almost impossible to adjust while on the bike.  I wouldn't recommend it.

Thanks Red,

 Although I am more of a "set it and forget it" type of guy, there doesn't seem to be much point in spending big money on something that is not easy to adjust. How did you find the ride quality? Now I have to wonder if the 534 or 535 would pose the same adjusting  issues?

Cheers!
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  • Supporting Member
3 hours ago, hammer said:

Thanks Red,

 Although I am more of a "set it and forget it" type of guy, there doesn't seem to be much point in spending big money on something that is not easy to adjust. How did you find the ride quality? Now I have to wonder if the 534 or 535 would pose the same adjusting  issues?

Unless you're set on Ohlins... I would recommend considering a Nitron. It comes with a cleverly designed pin tool that makes adjustment pretty easy, albeit slow...but if you don't intend to adjust often... Saved me from spending a bunch on a remote adjuster. Can't see a c-spanner working well in there.

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