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How to move the handlebar risers forward 10mm


ULEWZ

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This is easy and I will add pictures later:
 
1. Remove the two allen bolts securing the upper riser clamp halves to the lower clamp halves. Note the orientation of the upper clamp halves.
2. Position the handle bars with everything attached, forward of the risers on a soft cloth.
3. Using a universal and long extension(s), loosen, but do not remove the nuts securing the handle bar risers to the upper triple tree.
4. Twist the lower riser halves 180 degrees (Note how the lines on the risers have changed orientation).
5. Tighten the lower riser nuts snug, so the riser lower halves will rotate with finger pressure, but will not spin on their own.
6. With the lower riser halves still not tight, position the handle bars on the lower riser halves. Rotate lower riser halves as require to ensure flush contact with the handle bars.
7. Loosely install the upper riser clamp halves on the lower riser halves with two bolts ensuring the protusion is facing forward and the correct riser clamp halve is installed (labeled right or left on the bottom of the clamp halve).
8. Ensure no cables are stuck on the triple clamp (mine were, I simply repositioned them).
9. Align the punch mark on the handle bar with the lower aft edge of the upper clamp halve at the split line.
10. With the handle bar centered and in the correct position, tighten (alternate between bolts leaving the gap at the aft edge, the forward edge will be touching) the upper clamp halve bolts to 16 lb ft (22 Nm).
11. Tighten the lower riser clamp nuts to 29 lb ft (40 Nm).
12. Move the bars from lock to lock ensuring no binding. Reroute as necessary.
 
20150116_095447_zpsc48b6675.jpg
 
Note the different orientations from the lightening cutouts.
 
20150116_094706_zpse6fdcfe2.jpg
 
d972c882-10af-4215-a7d0-46d8005b0137_zps377f7a63.jpg
 
Note the punch mark at the split line on the left side
 
Handlebar%20Clamps_zpsissedf02.jpg
 
 
 
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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  • 5 months later...
thank you. this was helpful
2001 Honda Saber - sold
2003 Yamaha FZ1 - sold
2005 Yamaha FZ6 - sold
2007 Yamaha Vstar 1300 - sold
2008 Kawasaki Versys - sold
2009 Yamaha FZ6 - sold
2010 Yamaha Raider - sold
2012 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 - sold
2014 Yamaha FJR - sold
2015 Yamaha FJ-09 - lemon back to dealer
2016 Yamaha FJ -09
 
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Handlebar:
Upper bolt: 22 Nm / 16 ft-lbf Lower nut: 40 Nm / 29 ft-lbf
 
Read more: http://fj-09.org/posts/recent#ixzz3e7hg6E00
 
Torque specs are different. FYI.
Thanks, correct torque values added with a picture. 
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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Thanks ULEWZ. the punch mark note was especially helpful. So does it make a noticeable difference?
Cheers
Not much, but I like it more forward. A little more sporty for my riding style.  
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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I had best hope it is an improvement, both nuts rounded pretty badly when loosening and then again torgueing them down.
It is really hard to get the socket on straight.
My suggestion to anyone is to put the universal joint directly under the socket and then tape it so it won't flop over while trying to get the socket onto the nut.
I also found access to the nut to be easier from the back side of the lower triple clamp.
 
If you have someone holding the wheel and all goes smoothly this should take about 20 minutes.
 
Regardless - excellent write up ULEWZ.
 
Cheers
2015 FJ-09
2006 Triumph Daytona 675
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  • 3 weeks later...
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where do you get these pictures ? anybody please upload for compete bike it will be nice. thanks
 
they come from the service manual - there are thousands of diagrams in there which make it a very onerous task and would be a serious breach of copyright that may get reported back to Yamaha. That would really get in the way of Cruizin's retirement plan...
 
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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Handlebar%20Clamps_zpsissedf02.jpg 
 
 
where do you get these pictures ? anybody please upload for compete bike it will be nice. thanks
I don't know if this is allowed, if not please delete & feel free to chastise me but here is a link to a supplier in the UK that has diagrams similar to this freely posted on their website for customers to buy parts from, however they don't include the torque settings.
Hope these help (if permitted).
 
 
https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spareparts/26039/yamaha%20mt09%20tracer%20%20abs?uID=0
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Those pictues are called OEM Parts diagrams. Yamaha produces them. Back in the day there were called microfiche. Anyone who sells parts should have them online for free.
 
Rocky Mountain ATV MC
 
Partzilla
 
You should be able to find most parts for about 25% off "retail" with out much trouble.
2015 FJ-09, 2016 1290 Super Duke, 2017 150 XC-W (primary ride), 2012 DR650
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  • 1 month later...
Ok, I'm about to ride my new bike off a cliff - the nuts on the bottom of the bar risers are so f@&$ing frustrating! Everything I try simply rounds them off. Has anybody had success with any other method? I've tried going in from below with multiple extensions, with or without a universal joint, tested different size sockets, even used an extension on the ratchet itself.
My next attempt will be to strip all the plastic off the tank surrounding the upper clamps so that I can try to go in from above. Or maybe it would just be simpler to remove the entire top clamp to get at these nuts...
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I had best hope it is an improvement, both nuts rounded pretty badly when loosening and then again torgueing them down. It is really hard to get the socket on straight.
My suggestion to anyone is to put the universal joint directly under the socket and then tape it so it won't flop over while trying to get the socket onto the nut.
I also found access to the nut to be easier from the back side of the lower triple clamp.
 
If you have someone holding the wheel and all goes smoothly this should take about 20 minutes.
 

Taping the universal joint, having my wife hold the wheel  and taking extra time to ensure the nut was fully seated are what finally got it done for me.  It sucked and I'd like to thank Yamaha for using cheap ass hardware.Good luck. Btw, I can't tell the difference, so wouldn't bother at this point.
 
2015 FJ-09
2006 Triumph Daytona 675
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