deersSlayer Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 With the guards off, but the supports still on: http://i.imgur.com/jCFWVC3.jpg I'll probably take the supports off too, and maybe use bar end mirrors. With the guards and its supports off there's room for a proper windscreen (wider base.) FJ-09, 690 Enduro R. Back Roads. Period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spackler Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Someone will have to make a wider windscreen first. With those handguards being a stock piece, don't know how likely someone will be to make a screen that requires their removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FigJam-OhNine Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I actually like the look of the hand guards. They aren't perfect for wind protection, and I have to figure out how to raise the right one to match the left, but they're part of what makes the FJ-09 look like the Batcycle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I have been thinking of removing mine for the winter, and put the mitts on. The mitts won't fit over the handguard bars. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deersSlayer Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Handguards completely removed, including support: http://i.imgur.com/Wjc71Q7.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/jo69KT5.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/KdNCAV7.jpg I'll probably keep them off, and will add bar end weights. FJ-09, 690 Enduro R. Back Roads. Period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted January 24, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted January 24, 2015 [div align=left]I'll probably keep them off, and will add bar end weights. I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Mine are 3' wide, tip to tip! What is the measurement tip to tip with the guards off? Bar end weights will be a must, as there is sometimes vibrations that might need to be dampened out. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vespadaddy Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 I wonder of the airflow over the rider is affected by the handguards much? Also, no handguards really does show how wide the bars are.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deersSlayer Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 [div align=left]I'll probably keep them off, and will add bar end weights. I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Mine are 3' wide, tip to tip! What is the measurement tip to tip with the guards off? Bar end weights will be a must, as there is sometimes vibrations that might need to be dampened out. The whole hand guards assembly off, 31". That's 5" less! Mirrors tip to tip, 34.5" With these $7-a-pair aluminum bar end weights added, 34": http://i.imgur.com/NbwPOSN.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/EMFQnR5.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/tUFjZRK.jpg If those cheap aluminum weights aren't heavy enough for vibration damping, there are heavy mid-2000's Kawasaki weights that are 8 mm. They might be less wide too. But they're CDN $21 each! FJ-09, 690 Enduro R. Back Roads. Period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Another trick to reduce vibrations is to fill the bars full of silicone. I have been thinking of doing the same thing. Mine are 3' wide, tip to tip! What is the measurement tip to tip with the guards off? Bar end weights will be a must, as there is sometimes vibrations that might need to be dampened out. The whole hand guards assembly off, 31". That's 5" less! Mirrors tip to tip, 34.5" With these $7-a-pair aluminum bar end weights added, 34": http://i.imgur.com/NbwPOSN.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/EMFQnR5.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/tUFjZRK.jpg If those cheap aluminum weights aren't heavy enough for vibration damping, there are heavy mid-2000's Kawasaki weights that are 8 mm. They might be less wide too. But they're CDN $21 each! Yamaha FZ-10 Forum Yamaha FZ-07 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 I have done that to all of my dirt bikes and it helps alot. I usually use clear silicone, two tubes. Yamaha FZ-10 Forum Yamaha FZ-07 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zvez Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 I think I actually like it with the handguards left in place. But it's great that someone took them off to give us the ability to judge for ourselves! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I took mine off last night to install the Yamaha heated grips and to use the Oxford Muffs but will put them back on in the spring when I quit using the muffs. I think the handguard design is cool and with all the angles matches the bike design. I am now thinking of adding turn signals to the handguards. Revzilla ha Admore LED type and they just fit but maybe more work than I want to do. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fazerian Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Redfjniner ,do you think with the handguards off that you could replace the screen with a wider one e.g. from Super T or V-strom ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deersSlayer Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Redfjniner ,do you think with the handguards off that you could replace the screen with a wider one e.g. from Super T or V-strom ? This is my bike with the guards off, and the stock Yamaha screen in the low position: http://i.imgur.com/jo69KT5.jpg Same but with bar end weights added (and my luggage) http://i.imgur.com/xER3Fju.jpg If you filled in the screen from the upper rightmost edge of the fairing up to lower widest point of the screen, that would be great for me. Without the hand guards, the handle bars at full lock would not hit that screen. It would be even better if this CalSci screen was filled in that way: http://i.imgur.com/z0YuQQr.jpg (above pic still has hand guard bars, but not the guard) I asked CalSci in an email, after stating the quality of their screen is excellent, if they would make a screen like that, ie wider at the base. They never replied to me. :-( They did reply to an earlier email when I had a problem ordering from their site.... FJ-09, 690 Enduro R. Back Roads. Period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Redfjniner ,do you think with the handguards off that you could replace the screen with a wider one e.g. from Super T or V-strom ?Here is picture of me holding up a Touring Windscreen for an FJR, 22x22 with it about 16" at the point where the mirror arm touches. The handlebar is at full lock. It would work with 1/2"-3/4" spaces, and these could be nylon which are easy to get at any hardware store, and you can cut to the exact length you need. You can always use a reciprocating saw to cut down any windscreen. Just cover it on one side with blue masking tape where the saw will be against. One or two layers. Mark out the design you want and make sure you are cutting next to a support that you are pushing the windscreen in to. Set the screen on a towel or two folded. The saw blade will want to pull the screen up, so you have to make sure you are holding it down. I sometimes use clamps and move them and cut some more. Don't hurry as it is easy to nick the plastic and it will crack real easy. After cutting, smooth all edges so there are no nicks with a file, belt sander or just sand paper on a sanding block. The file makes a perfect edge. You can even round it at the edges. Buy a used one off some forum and cut to fit. You can get these for 25-40 used. Use it in the winter and then put the stock one on for the summer. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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