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NGK Iridium spark plugs


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I like the idea of plugs that don't require replacement every 15000 miles or so. Had Iridiums on my V Strom and was very happy with them. I couldn't find much on Iridiums for the FJ, so I sent and e-mail to NGK and this is their response:
Hello,
 
 
Thank you for your E-mail. The closest we offer to a Laser Iridium is a CR9EIA-9 stock no. 6289. This is a iridium plug with a nickel ground electrode. It comes out of the box gapped for your application at 0.036". You should be able to buy them at any major auto parts stores. If they sell NGK tell the worker the stock no.
 
 
 
Best Regards,
 
 
Michael Durocher
NGK Spark Plugs (USA) Inc.
Technical Support and Training Specialist - Aftermarket Division
46929 Magellan Drive
Wixom, MI. 48393
Office: (248)-926-7104
Fax: (248)-926-6938
Email: mdurocher@ngksparkplugs.com
ngksparkplugs.com
 
 
And it was an overnight response, a big +1 for NGK!
 
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  • 5 months later...
Guest bruinfj09guy
Did you buy these? Are you running them? Amazon says they don't fit my vehicle, but what do they know. I'm ordering 3.
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  • 4 months later...
Guest bruinfj09guy
Did you install these? Any issues?
 
I am thinking of doing the same.

 
 
I traded in my bike before I got around to installing them. :)
 
I've still got them brand new. I'd sell them to you at a discount but I'm in Cali and it looks like you're in Mississauga...
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  • 4 months later...
I install last week these spark plug CR9EIA-9 stock no. 6289. Start the CP3 engine and overheated pipes red after about one minute.
 
Is there somebody who have or know the reason of this problem please.
 
Odometer at 10 600 km after one season.
 
Thanks for your help !
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I install last week these spark plug CR9EIA-9 stock no. 6289. Start the CP3 engine and overheated pipes red after about one minute. 
Is there somebody who have or know the reason of this problem please.
 
Odometer at 10 600 km after one season.
 
Thanks for your help !I
 
Your pipes got red hot after one minute? I don't know enough too comment properly... But I wouldn't think one minute was long enough...
 
My understanding is that pipes get hot (and turn blue when cooled again) when a bike is running lean, or on preignition, I can only think that plugs are hotter type so igniting the fuel sooner?
 
Anyone else care to comment?..I'm interested.
 
 
Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P
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I had those spark plugs installed recently. Probably have gone a 1000 miles on them so far. Nothing different that I have noticed. But its been freezing, and the only thing I can(not!) feel or notice are my frosted fingers.
Have you tried those hand warmer things that hang down from the front of the engine?....some say they get toasty red hot.
Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P
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I bought some Autolite Xtreme Sport Iridium plugs for my 2006 FZ1. Never installed them.
 
But they are #XS4302
 
Says the replace: Champion G57C, 8654, NGK CR9E and CR9EIX.
 
I figure they fit the FZ09 and FJ09. Does not look like Yamaha changed the plug size/model much over the years in various engines just like they use similar Oil Filter sizes.
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I've got a set of NGK CR9EIA-9 sitting in the garage, ready to be installed sometime this winter. That being said I'll keep an eye on the header temperature using this infrared thermometer. It's cat approved!
 
cat_heat.jpg
 
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
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The OP states that NGK recommended and he fitted plug CR9EIA-9, and later CocoST mentions an issue of hot pipes.
 
From the NGK site:
 

UNDERSTANDING HEAT RANGE 
One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns.
 
 
 
A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition.
 
 
 
For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed.
 
 
 
The image below is a representation of the difference between a hot and cold heat range. NGK spark plugs’ heat range goes from 2 (hottest) to 11 (coldest).
 
So clearly different plugs will run the engine at different temperatures. On selecting Heat Range, NGK state:
 

HEAT RANGE SELECTION Let's make this really simple: when you need your engine to run a little cooler, run a colder plug. When you need your engine to run a little hotter, run a hotter spark plug. However, NGK Spark Plugs strongly cautions people that going to a hotter spark plug can sometimes mask a serious symptom of another problem that can lead to engine damage. Be very careful with heat ranges. If you are changing heat ranges, contact NGK Spark Plugs tech support for professional guidance, 877-473-6767 prompt #2.
 
With modified engines (those engines that have increased their compression,) more heat is a by-product of the added power that normally comes with increased compression. In short, select one heat range colder for every 75-100 hp you add, or when you significantly raise compression. Also remember to retard the timing a little and to increase fuel enrichment and octane. These tips are critical when adding forced induction (turbos, superchargers or nitrous kits), and failure to address ALL of these areas will virtually guarantee engine damage.
 
An engine that has poor oil control can sometimes mask the symptom temporarily by running a slightly hotter spark plug. While this is a band-aid approach, it is one of the only examples of when and why one would select a hotter spark plug.
 
There is also quite a good description on plug basics here Linky Linky to NGK
 
 
On the NGK site, when looking for plugs for the FJ-09 / Tracer NGK only list a "Standard" plug, NOT an Iridium alternative. The part No for the standard plug is CPR9EA-9 # Stock Number 2308
 
 
It sounds to me as though the Iridium plug CR9EIA-9 probably is the equivalent to CPR9EA-9 ... but that doesn't explain why there is no iridium listing on the NGK site for the FJ09?
 
 
Finally as a comment to CocoST, are you sure that you actually fitted the correct plug (id est, did you check the actual plugs? - who know's whether they accidentally ended up in the correct box?
 
 
Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P
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Some guys say "equivalent" spark plugs of different brands do not make any difference. However, a few years ago I compared stock, one hotter, one colder heat ranges of both NGK Iridiums and cheapest Champion spark plugs in my other bike, a carbed 2006 Harley Sportster with stage 1 mods, and jetted to give a good torque band and clean plugs, which some Harley guys would say was on the lean side. The Iridium plugs did make a noticeable difference, mainly they seemed to give a crisper sound and feel. I was concerned the Iridiums were pushing the air fuel mixture a bit over the edge of too lean/too hot. I did not try to rejet the carb to match the Iridiums, and went back to the non-Iridium plugs just for safety.
 
Based on this experiment, I would guess the result of changing to Iridiums is probably related to other aspects of how the engine is tuned, ECU reflash, exhaust changes etc. This explains why some guys change to Iridiums without problems, others report (what may be) too lean / overheating problems. I would like to see dyno tuning and air fuel charts before and after changing to Iridium plugs, and I do not know if anyone has done that.
 
I am going to send this link to 2WheelDynoWorks to see if we can get better info from him.
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That would be interesting.
Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P
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After this recent experience with iridium sparks plug specified, order news standard spark plug to receive and will say if all is ok. I just hope no trouble with the CP3 engine after this experience of overheating pipes. 
 
I changed standard spark plug for iridium because my VFR800A 2008 had stock iridium spark plug to change every 50 000km, and to extend the maintenance ! 
 
Modifications recently: air filter K&N, Motul oil syntec, Michelin PR4, belly pan Ermax EVO and Ermax touring screen.
 
Thanks for all informations and Happy new year 2017 
 
 
 
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