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Throttle Body Synch Tips


beberle

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It took me 4+ hours to synchronize my bike. Hopefully some of these tips will save you some time.
 
The Fuel Tank Removal thread starts the process: 
Fuel Tank Removal
 
- the air box definitely has to come off. I used a simple 4mm Allen wrench for 90% of the work. There's actually room to use the Allen lengthwise on the 3 air box clamps. 
- You need to remove the left side air box breather hose before lifting up the box and removing the hose in the middle. Plenty of play in the middle hose, very little on the side hose.
- Just unplug the ECM on top of the airbox, no need to remove it.
- The vacuum port nibs are a pain to remove and reinstall. I dropped them 3 or 4 times. A magnetic pickup tool is your best friend here. The nibs always fell down onto the engine case just under the starter for me.
- The only way to access the adjustment screws easily is to lay the tank backwards on the frame. I used a towel and 2x4 to protect the chassis. The fuel line is a quick disconnect pressurized line. No way to set up a portable tank ala carburetor a.
- the specs call for +\\- 10mm Hg. My gauge read cm Hg, not the best tool for the job! 
- you Don't have to squeeze the metal rings on the vacuum nibs to reinstall them. Just center and push them back on. 
 
 
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Thanks for the write up, I will use it when I do mine. Like I posted before, this maintenance was soooo much easier on my FJR and FZ6. Didnot have to remove panels and the tanks were hinged at rear so they only needed the fronts propped up and no airbox removals!
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  • 4 months later...
Just did the sync on mine at 1000 mi. Took a long time as it was the first time. They were out of sync, and when I got them level cylinder 3 took a few more seconds to come down to a resting level with 1 and 2 after a throttle blip. Anybody else find that? Could be the equipment. I might change the hoses around next time. I'm not going to put things together again until I look into finding the parts to run semi-permanent test lines so I can test without full disassemble. Has anybody diagrammed a good solution to parts and routing..to-do and what not-to-do?
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I did mine around the 600 mile mark, and they were pretty close, but not quite, in spec.  I probably should do them again after the ECU reflash, but haven't gotten around to it.
 
As for routing permanent vacuum lines to avoid disassembly, I wonder if that would save any time? If they're out of spec, you'll have to tear it back down to get to the adjusters anyway, right?
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I just got the flash...which spurred me on to check the sync. Some have said here that often no sync is necessary at the service intervals, but that it is important to check it fairly early. Can many members confirm that they've checked the sync at later intervals and found it within spec?
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I just got the flash...which spurred me on to check the sync. Some have said here that often no sync is necessary at the service intervals, but that it is important to check it fairly early. Can many members confirm that they've checked the sync at later intervals and found it within spec?
I performed my first TB synch once my ECU returned from getting 2WDW flash at 3500 or so. One cylinder was slightly off. 1/16 of a turn balanced it out so it was off very little. Runs much better now and several benefits to the flash. I'd take the steps to perform the synch while you have it apart. Bit more work pulling the air cleaner but the trim panels and tank are the biggest part which you've already done. If you have availability to a set of vacuum gauges, get her done.   
Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles)
07 Honda ST1300A (sold)
06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper)
97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?)
20+ years of snowmobiles
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  • Premium Member
I performed the first sync at 5200 miles and it was still level on all three cylinders at idle.
However, if I revved it up to about 3000 then the meter on one cylinder went up much higher than the other two. They balanced again when I returned it to idle. Not sure if that is a problem or not.

2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest bruinfj09guy
I'm at about 8100 mi and mine have never been done. I've decided to do the 8k service myself and invested in these http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Carburetor-Vacuum-Synchronizer-Gauges/dp/B00T80OR52?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 instead of unloading at the stealer.
 
Thanks for the tips! I've never done this. Do I just hook up the hoses, fire up the engine, and turn the screws until all gages are balanced? How bad can I screw this up?
 
Thanks!
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I'm at about 8100 mi and mine have never been done. I've decided to do the 8k service myself and invested in these http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Carburetor-Vacuum-Synchronizer-Gauges/dp/B00T80OR52?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 instead of unloading at the stealer. 
Thanks for the tips! I've never done this. Do I just hook up the hoses, fire up the engine, and turn the screws until all gages are balanced? How bad can I screw this up?
 
Thanks!
One of the three throttle body adjustment screws should have a white painted head. That is your base and the one you won't adjust. Adjust the other two's vacuum to match the base. Mine is a CA smog equipped bike and my base TB was not the same one as the federal models. I think mine was on the LH side.  Adjustment process is the same. I only had one slightly out @ 3500 ish miles.     
Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles)
07 Honda ST1300A (sold)
06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper)
97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?)
20+ years of snowmobiles
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Guest bruinfj09guy
Excellent. Thank you. Wondering how much mine will be out. Vibration has become a bit of a thing; for a while I thought the triple's vibration was just starting to get to me, but lately have been wondering if it's worse than it should be due to throttle body sync.

I'm at about 8100 mi and mine have never been done. I've decided to do the 8k service myself and invested in these http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Carburetor-Vacuum-Synchronizer-Gauges/dp/B00T80OR52?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 instead of unloading at the stealer. 
Thanks for the tips! I've never done this. Do I just hook up the hoses, fire up the engine, and turn the screws until all gages are balanced? How bad can I screw this up?
 
Thanks!
One of the three throttle body adjustment screws should have a white painted head. That is your base and the one you won't adjust. Adjust the other two's vacuum to match the base. Mine is a CA smog equipped bike and my base TB was not the same one as the federal models. I think mine was on the LH side.  Adjustment process is the same. I only had one slightly out @ 3500 ish.   
 
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Excellent. Thank you. Wondering how much mine will be out. Vibration has become a bit of a thing; for a while I thought the triple's vibration was just starting to get to me, but lately have been wondering if it's worse than it should be due to throttle body sync.  
ECU flash also helps with vibration. I can't really feel mine unless I try to. Just focus on the ride and enjoy.  
Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles)
07 Honda ST1300A (sold)
06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper)
97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?)
20+ years of snowmobiles
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Guest bruinfj09guy
HEEEELLLLP!!! My white screw is in the middle. The gauge was going all crazy (I didn't have it set right), and the needle was jumping all over. I adjusted the WHITE screw! AHHHH! Am I screwed now, or should I just make them all match?
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Did you happen to take a "before" picture? If you did not adjust it much you might be able to get it back to smooth-running by adjusting back to that slot position....once clockwise and then counterclockwise and see if one is better. If you don't have a "before" reference, then others can likely tell you what you're up against. I understand that the ECU is set such that the white marked body needs to stay the same. I take before pics just to know I've got the hoses and other parts back where they belong. I've seen pics here with the white on the left, mine is on the right, and yours at the center...go figure!
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Guest bruinfj09guy
If only I took a before picture! DOH!  ;-|
 
It seems fine is the thing. All the gauges line up and it is no more bouncy than it was before. All the screws are in tight at the moment.  B-|
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