zahm618 Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Do i need to remove the fuel tank to change the spark plugs or losing the radiator enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toast Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 I was looking at this yesterday, I think moving the radiator will be enough. Yamaha was nice enough to install a hinge on the bottom to swing it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zahm618 Posted December 19, 2015 Author Share Posted December 19, 2015 We need to make sure from some one do that befor or from Yamaha factory repair manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member lhancock Posted December 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 19, 2015 Per the service manual CHECKING THE SPARK PLUGS The following procedure applies to all of the spark plugs. Remove:•Fuel tank front cover/Front side panel/Frontside cowling.•Passenger seat/Rider seat•Fuel tank cover•Fuel tank•Air filter case•Air cut-off valve. Remove:•Ignition coils•Spark plugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted December 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 19, 2015 I haven't had my tank off yet. Does Yamaha use those CPC quick disconnects for the fuel lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member lhancock Posted December 19, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 19, 2015 On the main fuel line yes there is a quick disconnect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted December 20, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 20, 2015 There should be two fuel lines, right? One each for supply and return. I assume there is also a slip-fit vent line and an electrical connector for the fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 There should be two fuel lines, right? One each for supply and return. I assume there is also a slip-fit vent line and an electrical connector for the fuel pump. No, this is a returnless system. 1 line with 2 connections. One at the pump and one at the fuel rail. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted December 20, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted December 20, 2015 Huh, I didn't know that was even possible. I thought all EFI systems required a continuous flow with return. Edit: Okay I searched "returnless efi" and learned that this is a growing trend. It seems that fuel pressure is regulated directly by the pump via a voltage regulator. Fascinating. Next question: is the quick disconnect plastic or metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Huh, I didn't know that was even possible. I thought all EFI systems required a continuous flow with return. Edit: Okay I searched "returnless efi" and learned that this is a growing trend. It seems that fuel pressure is regulated directly by the pump via a voltage regulator. Fascinating. Next question: is the quick disconnect plastic or metal? Not by a voltage regulator, by a fuel pressure regulator that is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. The clips are plastic. A locking guard must be gently moved out of the way. Then 2 tabs or buttons recessed on each side of the connector need to be depressed before pulling the line off the fitting. S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zahm618 Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Thanks for al information, finally we have to remove the seats, fuel tank and air filter housing to change the spark plugs. Ok how about the radiator should we need open it or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Thanks for al information, finally we have to remove the seats, fuel tank and air filter housing to change the spark plugs. Ok how about the radiator should we need open it or not? No. On some sport bikes, it is faster to pull the radiator rather than removing the air box, etc to get to the spark plugs. I don't know that anyone has tried this yet on the FJ 09. I sync the TB's every 4K miles as recommended. So for me it is easier to pull the air box for spark plug access as I am going to do it anyway for the sync procedure. I changed my plugs at 8k. You could definitely wait until 12k as others on this forum have recommended. My old plugs were super clean with a good gap and could have gone another 4K miles easily. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Thanks for al information, finally we have to remove the seats, fuel tank and air filter housing to change the spark plugs. Ok how about the radiator should we need open it or not? No. On some sport bikes, it is faster to pull the radiator rather than removing the air box, etc to get to the spark plugs. I don't know that anyone has tried this yet on the FJ 09. I sync the TB's every 4K miles as recommended. So for me it is easier to pull the air box for spark plug access as I am going to do it anyway for the sync procedure. I changed my plugs at 8k. You could definitely wait until 12k as others on this forum have recommended. My old plugs were super clean with a good gap and could have gone another 4K miles easily. Skip Skippy kind of likes to pull things apart and play with them. Not a bad thing, but if you are like me, and don't want to pull things apart and fuss over them to make sure that things are working as good as they can, then you will not be changing your spark plugs every 8K. Even if the manual says to do so. On Yamaha's FJR I have seen plugs go well over 50K, which I have had two sets of Irdium plugs go over 50K with no problems. If the plug is working okay, there is really no reason to change it. Also, the TB sync shown to be checked every 4K, I check by starting the engine and riding down the road, if it is smooth and acts like it did the day after I had the sync, I conclude that it has been checked. I had mine done at 600 and I now have 25,600 miles and it is still fine. I feel the more times you fuss with it, the bigger the possibliity something will go wrong. I can hardly wait to do the Valve Check coming up next year, Jan. 2016. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevengau Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I heard to get a good spark will help the performance, any recommendation for what kind of spark is good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5000100 Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I heard to get a good spark will help the performance, any recommendation for what kind of spark is good?Stock plugs are the best. Anything else with a stock engine is a waste. For reference, the stock ones are NGK CPR9EA-9, gapped to 0.8 - 0.9 mm https://www.amazon.com/NGK-CPR9EA-9-Standard-Spark-Plug/dp/B0068OB2GS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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