Jump to content

Break in


Recommended Posts

Does the Yamaha manual actually recommend keeping below 4500RPM for a specified period? I have been on several bike forums over the last couple years and there has been lively debate about "hard break-in" versus "soft break-in". While I don't believe flogging a bike the first hour it runs is ideal, today's modern engines have extremely precise finishes in the bore (in fact our engines are a spray-in linerless type....mirror finish!) and require much less break in than traditional cast liners might. I inquired with my dealer and he said after a few heating and cooling cycles you are good to go. I just was curious as to the manuals actual recommendation/requirement.  I plan on riding mine on the dyno for a while to simulate a short break-in before testing the 3 throttle modes to compare output.
2015 Matte Grey
Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does the Yamaha manual actually recommend keeping below 4500RPM for a specified period? I have been on several bike forums over the last couple years and there has been lively debate about "hard break-in" versus "soft break-in". While I don't believe flogging a bike the first hour it runs is ideal, today's modern engines have extremely precise finishes in the bore (in fact our engines are a spray-in linerless type....mirror finish!) and require much less break in than traditional cast liners might. I inquired with my dealer and he said after a few heating and cooling cycles you are good to go. I just was curious as to the manuals actual recommendation/requirement.  I plan on riding mine on the dyno for a while to simulate a short break-in before testing the 3 throttle modes to compare output.
The manual says to avoid sustained RPM's above 5,500 for the first 1000KM (600 Miles), and to avoid sustained RPM's above 6,500 for the next 600KM (400 Miles). Then after that, ride it like you stole it (paraphrasing).
 
You'll read countless arguments online about how to break-in a bike. Some say to stick to factory recommendations, others say to ride it like you stole it right off the dealer lot.
 
My typical break-in is to ride like my grandma for the first 1000KM, ride like my mom for the next 600KM, then ride like me. :D
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm. Sustained, eh? I'd say a quick WOT run doesn't qualify as sustained. High speed highway pulls, well that's another thing. Good to know what the manual says anyway. I'd look myself, but my ride is still in transit.
2015 Matte Grey
Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is what I do.
 
Start the bike, take off on a ride. Rev it up, rev it down the whole time. As in, rev it up to 6,000, let it rev own to 3,000, over and over for 20 miles. Then, drain the oil and shavings, refill oil. Changing oil at 20 miles after ripping on it is the most important step.
 
Then, ride 600 miles, again, revving it up and letting it rev down as much as possible. Change oil AND filter.
 
Then, change oil and filter again at 1200 miles. Then, in my book, that baby is broke in.
 
It's similar to the Motoman method and works well for me.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Cruizin. Frequent oil changes at first, and varying RPMs. Hopefully everyone knows not to rag on a cold engine (motorcycle or otherwise).
2015 Matte Grey
Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest eatpasta
My dealer just tells everyone to basically find the twistiest road you can find and ride it- the kind of road with the 15 mph turns and such. Or put 300 miles of city riding on it. Its the accelerating that does the breaking in.  
My break in route-
Redding to Platina

 I went to college in Chico but I never had a bike up there and I saw all of the awesome riding around ..... never got to take advantage of it.
 
 
 Especially in the summer time - yeah F*$K that....
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, always letting the bike warm up to 107 degrees before riding it is also very very good for your engine. I hear guys start their cold bikes and take right off, an I always cringe. Dry parts beating against ea other.
Um, sorry, can't agree with you on that one.  A modern engine in good repair will quickly come up to oil pressure and it will not be dry parts banging against each other.  Best method is to start the bike, give it a few moments for oil pressure to stabilize and then ride easy until temps come up to norm.  Starting a motor and then letting sit idling is actually not good for it. 
SoCal
2015 FJ-09 Red of course :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty much. You only need a few seconds to let the oil circulate. Some bikes have such weak charging systems, that they will stall with a few minutes of idle since the battery draisn unless they are at speed.
 
Sorry, but fz09 manual disagrees with both of you guys, especially on the first start of the day. And keep in mind that piston and cylinders are two different metals, which both expand at two totally different temps. I have been building engines since 83 and always let any engine warm up to 106 on first start. That's why Yamaha even suggests to.
 
To ea their own, but my engines and even batteries seem to last.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest eatpasta
Also, always letting the bike warm up to 107 degrees before riding it is also very very good for your engine. I hear guys start their cold bikes and take right off, an I always cringe. Dry parts beating against ea other.
you know what's funny, when I had my BMW, in the manual it specifically said DO NOT warm up the engine.  Start up the bike and ride off - be gently until the bike reaches operating temp - but it very clearly stated to not warm up the engine. 
   having said all of that, I usually start whatever bike Im riding, put on my helmet and gloves to give the motor a minute or two to come to temperature, then take off.
    If it's my CB400F, I wait a few more minute to let the head really warm up, then off like a prom dress
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×