Premium Member ULEWZ Posted January 26, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted January 26, 2016 Yeah, did some more digging and it appears that I got all excited, like Jo-Jo the Idiot Circus Boy, with a pretty new pet! I do need to pull the top caps, and set the needle on each fork- and I'm pretty certain I can do that with the forks still on the bike. I'll mess with that this week. Since I filled the forks with fluid, WITH the springs attached, I am likely a few MM short on fluid, so I'll add some to compensate. I did work the forks a fair amount when I added fluid to bleed out air. I added fluid about 5x in each leg, in steps, for two reasons: one I didn't want to overfill the legs and 2, I wanted to work the suspension a few times to help bleed the cartridges during the fill process. FWIW- I used about 14-15oz per fork leg. From a 32oz bottle, I estimate I have 2-4oz left over. On the shock- I got an e-mail back from JRI. Nice that they were responsive, but their idea of a "manual" consisted of: "The Blue Collar is rebound. The red knob on the remote adjuster is Compression." That's it. The WHOLE manual! Again, the JRI shock looks to be VERY well made and is beautiful- and it needs better included documentation. Especially considering many buy these and install them without prior knowledge of JRI. I'll get it dialed in. Thanks for keeping me honest guys! Hey Jo Jo, take the forks off to do this. You will thank me later and in the long run will take less time, cleanup. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member michael Posted February 16, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 16, 2016 So how are you liking the JRI shock? I have had one on order and paid for for a few weeks. If they ever get their act together I might be able to find out for myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhevezi Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Mchael, et al, So far, I really like it. I haven't been fidiling with it much, other than the ride height adjustment. I noticed that the back of the bike was better controlled over stock, but it was sitting low. I didn't want to crank on the preload (yet) so I used the ability to lengthen the shock to better set the ride height. It's easy, even when on the bike. Not much room to work, but it's doable. The compression adjuster on the remote is really, REALLY stiff. I hope it loosens up over time. I'd like to be able to adjust it on the fly. My passenger commented (just tonight) that the bike felt stiff- and I concur. When mounting the JRI- it goes in fairly easy, but finding a good spot for the remote reservoir took the most time. I finally settled on the frame (see my above photos), but the frame gets really warm there. Hot even. Not good for a shock. Did some more fiddling today and found a better spot- out of the way and it's way cooler. I have the stock, Yamaha side cases and I drilled into the left mount and put the reservoir there. A bit of tinkering, and I think this will be better over time. Of course, I took pics and here they are. More to come on both the shock and the fork upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vespadaddy Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 I really like that shock reservoir placement. I'll no doubt follow suit when I can afford new suspenders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 It lools sexy too! I assume the shocks looks are on par? 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 The compression adjuster on the remote is really, REALLY stiff. It shouldn't be. I just twisted mine. It's firm, not Penske-like 'snick, snick', like my SV shock that's true. But the detent is definitely there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhevezi Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 I can feel the detents on the adjuster- it's just way more stiff than I was expecting and more stiff than it needs to be. Not worth sending back, it's just stiff. My guess is it will loosen up a little with use. The rebound is located on the lower portion of the shock, below the spring, and that spins firm, but easy. Setting the preload is easy and adjustable at both ends of the spring. With the bike up on the center stand, I can spin the shock with my hand. Makes it nice and easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 I called JRI and made a point about how stiff the knob is vs everybody else who makes something similar. They owe me an explanation which I will pass on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhevezi Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 I called JRI and made a point about how stiff the knob is vs everybody else who makes something similar. They owe me an explanation which I will pass on. Ha, ha- thanks Pattonme. I just checked the adjuster- there is a small, allen bolt that holds the adjuster on. I'll see if I can loosen that a bit. The knob "seals" to the remote reservoir with an o-ring. I put a drop of lube on there to help the knob spin. The adjuster has numbers 1-6 on it. Mine spins (with effort), with detents, but will rotate around as many times as I turn it. Thus far, I have not been able to get it to bottom out. Hmmm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 It's a drum adjuster. Each detent corresponds to the hole lining up with the inlet. So if you don't line the detent/line up what you have is the flow is completely cut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhevezi Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 At the recommendation of ULEWZ- I pulled the forks and yep- the top caps need to be tightened down to the fork cartridges. Also setting the needle depth is a part of this step. Ideally it looks like 7-8 full turns from open to closed are what you get with these and if you don't set this proper, you will not have full range of adjustability and since you just paid hundreds of dollars for that- get your money's worth! Once you have the needle depth set, the lock nut spins up to the top cap and snug it up. And to make this easy as pie (Costco Apple...) - I bought a spring holder tool off E-Bay that slightly compresses the spring, with a u-plate that holds the spring down, so you can tighten the nut to the top cap. It was only $25. Works like a champ. Pics below. Running preload out all the way on both (got some beefy springs there), and Rebound and Compression in 2 turns, with about 6 left to go. As I get more miles in and everything settles, I'll add Compression and Rebound to taste. I have noticed brake dive is greatly reduced and it makes the front brake feel about 50% more powerful. More to come as I get more miles. Have Fun Kids! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhevezi Posted April 29, 2016 Author Share Posted April 29, 2016 So I've got about 2 months of riding on these and have been fiddiling a bit. Fork Cartridges: Two things: they are a sizable leap in performance and control over stock, but are not made for a "plush" ride. They are firm and not ashamed of it. With that, I am very happy with my fork upgrade. I have added a 3rd full twist to both the compression and the rebound and I think I found the 'sweet spot' for my riding style. I need to do some additional tinkering with the sag and check the full travel, now that everything is broken in. Control everywhere is enhanced and my biggest beef with the stock stuff was the lack of control, mid-corner, when the road got bumpy. These things hold a line and don't let go. Really nice. Also I have yet to induce any headshake in the front. And believe me I am trying. The bike sets very well at corner entry and tracks straight. Very pleased. The Shock: Got it working well, and had to increase the ride height to level it out, which is a great feature to have. Feels much more planted with a passenger and I don't feel like I am blowing through the travel. It's very composed out back. I'll play with the clickers a little more and do a "Final Thoughts" report in the next few months. Happy Riding! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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