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The 12 step how to: replace FJ-09 oil pan


com3

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Two things Yamaha should step up and fix on this bike/engine.
 
The oil pan, and they have for the new bikes, wit the side/forward drain bolt.
And the Cam Chain Tensioner design. (At least the ones that first came out were seriously flawed, or not made right, and failed on nearly all the bikes at some point or another. Some were/are just noise. Others, like mine nearly killed me. (Sort of like this oil dump at any speed would create.)
 
Even if all Yamaha did was offer to put a low profile plug, and file down the fin, that would be better than nothing. And same goes for the CCT, an offer from Yamaha to replace the defective ones with revised ones is nice, but many folks are out of warranty, or just plain do not trust many techs to do the job right. So the aftermarket manual set and forget units sell briskly. (And for much less than the gizmatic-failure-prone stock design.)
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Ok Folks, I started this process last night and wanted to add a couple of points that might aid others. Here we go:
 
Before beginning - I ordered the updated pan, a couple of spare drain plug crush washers (to have on hand) AND most importantly, an extra oil pan gasket... more on that later. Gasket is part number 1RC-13414-00-00 
 
Parts:
 
IMAG2571_zpsf9zzslul.jpg
 
I do not have one of those fancy spool lifts, so I used the center stand. No need to remove either tires, you can access the header bolts easily. The OP did this as he was replacing the oil soaked ones. 
 
 I did not remove the Oxygen sensor from the exhaust. Instead, I disconnected the clip. This is done in 2 steps, one is removing the connection-clip and the second is disconnecting.
 
Where the connection is mounted to the bike, pull up on the insulator cover, then push the top part in and pull up This will remove the entire connection from it's mount:
 
IMAG2574_zpsordsp91d.jpg
 
 
This is the connection the above clip will be pulled from. It is tight, but it can be removed
IMAG2575_zpsul29k458.jpg
 
Then push away on the tab and pull the O2 connection out. The O2 connection has already been removed in this pic, but it will show where to push on the clip:
 
IMAG2576_zps3wizfhcr.jpg
 
-After that, I removed the nuts from the header pipe, and the 2 by the muffler/cat. I then put some news paper on the center stand bar and let the muffler rest on it. you do not need to remove it or need much clearance. I then proceeded to remove all of the bolts that held the pan in place and drop the pan. With minimal clearance, you are able to guide the pan out (from the left side as sitting on the bike) because one of the fins allows the oil pick-up tube to pass right by. Be sure you also remove the oil level sensor (guessing that's what it is??) from the left side as well.
 
This is all the clearance I needed to remove/install the pan
 
IMAG2578_zpsh4eas8vb.jpg
 
 
 
Now, remember where I mentioned that gasket? When I dropped the pan, half of the gasket stuck to the bottom of the block and was a big mess! I used some old T-shirt cut up and wrapped around the end of a screw-driver handle and carefully removed all of the material. This was really the most time consuming part of the whole deal. 
 
After that, the new gasket/pan slid into place. Don't forget to re-install the sensor. I will need to finish tightening everything up and re-install the exhaust tonight. 
 
 
Also, be sure you remove the key from the ignition and put a note that says "ADD OIL" on it so you don't forget once everything is back together!!
 
Great instructions by the OP, just wanted to add a few things. Hope this helps someone else.
 
Robb
 
UPDATE: Buttoned everything up last night. I used a floor jack to help stabilize the exhaust, seemed to work out well. 
 
 
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'15 FJ-09 (Red) - DIY OEM Tidy Tail - Updated Oil Pan
 
 
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  • 4 weeks later...
 Nobody has mentioned yet whether the gasket needs to have any type of gasket sealer on it or if it goes on dry. I've got one I have to replace and I was just wondering what everybody was doing to their Gasket whether there gluing it or putting it on as it is.
 Thanks 
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If you have a new gasket, no sealant is necessary. Make sure both surfaces are cleaned of any remaining gasket material and oil/dirt free.  
-Skip
 
Thanks,
I appreciate the info.i bought the bike used from a BMW dealer and went to change the oil at 3600 miles and found the pan drain stripped and held in with silicone. I am fortunate that it never leaked and didn't burn the motor up. Dealer of course would not help and said it didn't have any warranty when sold, which it didn't, and only offered to fix it if I paid the full parts and labor cost. Decided to fix it myself and not go back to them ever again.just got the parts wanted to make sure on the gasket.
Thanks,
Barender
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  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Here is a post that I made to 4TheRiders.com: 
>> One more comment, if I may? I can tell you that filing a complaint with the US’s NHTSA can and does result in restitution being made to owners of faulty vehicles.
 
I recently received a letter from Mazda (after I joined in on such a complaint about the Mazda 3’s “sticky dash” syndrome) that they were going to replace my entire dash for free. This costs, at least, over $1,000 worth of parts and labor. And we’re not talking about something nearly as serious as having your bike and tires covered in oil while at speed….
 
I suggest that ALL owners of the defective FJ-09s post such a complaint to the NHTSA. Who knows, maybe Yamaha will be a little more charitable once Uncle Sam gets on their case?!
 
NHTSA Link:
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/  <<
 
How about it fellas, are you willing to spend 10 minutes in an effort to get this most serious issue handled properly??
 
 
I filed my complaint. It didn't take too long and now I feel like a good person. :)
 
Oil pan on my 2015 FJ09 has a design flaw. The drain bolt is at the bottom and will be the first thing to contact the ground on a road irregularity. Today I read a disturbing account of a rider who rode over a bump in the road, broke the oil drain bolt out of the pan, and covered his bike, tires, and passenger with oil. AMAZINGLY he brought the bike to rest without falling over. Yamaha seems to acknowledge the design flaw since only the first year of production have this type of pan, and later units have an updated oil pan with the drain bolt moved to the side. I would like Yamaha to recall the early production bikes with this pan and install the new pan at no cost. I would be happy to pay for fresh oil during the pan install. Thank you,
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This is an excellent resource. Thanks to everyone who took the time to share their experiences!
did you have an "uh-oh"?  :(
Haven't ripped the oil pan apart just yet... however I did already scrape the exhaust over a few curbs.  The same curbs my FZ6 used to handle without any issues.
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  • 4 years later...

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