checkereddemon Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 Adjuster wrote: "SO, I like the brakes. I like the ABS. I like the Traction control. I want factory cruise control with just the buttons and a re-flash of my ECU..." I concur wholeheartedly except that my bike was already flashed when I bought it. Even so, in A Mode the throttle is still just a wee bit touchy, but nothing that I cannot adjust for rather easily. Coming straight off the showroom floor, all this bike needs is a flash, a suspension upgrade, a new seat, and a pipe and it's darn near perfect. Of course all that adds up to a pretty tidy sum, approx. $2,000US, yikes !! -CD- 2015 Yamaha FJ-09: RaceTech Gold Valves, RaceTech Rear Spring, Arrow Full Exhaust - black with w/Carbon Fibre endcap, ECU Flash, Lowered 20mm front, 15 mm rear, Denali driving lights, Fenda Extenda, Tail Tidy, Corbin Seat, Madstad 22" Windshield, OEM heated grips, Woodcraft frame sliders, Grip Puppies, BadAss Cover (Large).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member michael Posted February 18, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 18, 2016 I am satisfied with the brakes. They work as well as I need motorcycle brakes to work. I don't do stoppies and I don't ride my FJ-09 in MotoGP races. I think Yamaha did a fine job on the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabefzr6 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 ...and get a radial one if you can for even more feel if that's what you want. I disagree that a Radial M.C. will necessarily give better feel. On two occasions I have replaced non-radial M.C.s with radial M.C.s of the same bore. While both cases gave noticeably more braking power, they both lost some degree of feel. One was so bad that I switched it back. 2008 Street Triple G 2015 FJ-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd7vdb Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I came from a KLR 650 with horrible fork dive and inadequate front brake (I never locked it up). I find the brake to be adequate and have not used the front abs yet and I use the rear just about every ride (I am used to dragging the rear wheel a little on downshifts ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericm Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Got any links to those Kevtex mods? I don't find them with google. Magura makes a hydraulic clutch kit that should work on the FJ/FZ. My Scorpa trials bike came with a similar Magura setup that operates the same clutch lever in the cases that the FJ/FZ has (Yamaha being the engine supplier for this year Scorpa). It's a little stiffer than some other trials clutches but still acceptable for trials, which requires a much lighter yet still very accurate clutch. I've also thought about a longer pivot arm to reduce clutch effort, but like you said there's not a lot of room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdeye Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 a little too much lever travel in my front brakes when I first bought it. Had air in the lines from the factory. EBC HH pads are much better. Didn't like the GG compound stockers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member michael Posted February 20, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 20, 2016 When I took off the fork legs on my 1000 mile old '15 yesterday to send them to Traxxion, I found that the bolts holding the right caliper to the fork leg were loose. No threadlocker on any of the four bolts holding the calipers to the fork legs. Shoddy assembly. I always use threadlocker on caliper bolts. You can bet there will be threadlocker on them when I reassemble it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabefzr6 Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 When I took off the fork legs on my 1000 mile old '15 yesterday to send them to Traxxion, I found that the bolts holding the right caliper to the fork leg were loose. No threadlocker on any of the four bolts holding the calipers to the fork legs. Shoddy assembly. I always use threadlocker on caliper bolts. You can bet there will be threadlocker on them when I reassemble it. On all my bikes, I lightly lubricate the caliper bolts with grease to prevent galling of the threads. Torqued to spec, they have never come loose. It should be noted that I remove these bolts over a dozen times a year for tire changes and other maintenance. So my wear and tear is admittedly higher than average. 2008 Street Triple G 2015 FJ-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member michael Posted February 20, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 20, 2016 The fact they were loose (one was literally finger tight) after 1000 miles indicates to me they either were not tightened properly or they need threadlocker. I will do both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Just a note for all you neophytes, You don't need to add threadlocker to the front caliper bolts. Just tighten with clean threads to the specified torques. 25 ft. lbs. Also note that if you use a threadlocker, lower your torque value by 8-10% to make sure you aren't over stressing those threads. Continued use of threadlocker will over stress the threads and in time (I don't know how long or how many tightening) the threads will fail if specified torgue values are used. If you don't expect to keep your bike for a long time, you probably don't have any thing to worry about, but why take the chance? Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabefzr6 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Just a note for all you neophytes, You don't need to add threadlocker to the front caliper bolts. Just tighten with clean threads to the specified torques. 25 ft. lbs. Also note that if you use a threadlocker, lower your torque value by 8-10% to make sure you aren't over stressing those threads. Continued use of threadlocker will over stress the threads and in time (I don't know how long or how many tightening) the threads will fail if specified torgue values are used. If you don't expect to keep your bike for a long time, you probably don't have any thing to worry about, but why take the chance? Good point. I forgot to mention reducing the torque value when there is a lubricant involved. Thank you Ken for the reminder. 2008 Street Triple G 2015 FJ-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 If you ever have caliper bolts fall out, and I have on a different bike, you will never trust factory recommendations again. I will use thread locker on mine. Not a problem if you clean the old stuff off the threads before re-torquing. Torque values are not as critical, (still important but not critical) if thread locker is used. There are some areas where torque is critical, such as engine head bolts, axle pinch bolts etc. Regardless, best protection is a quick check of critical fasteners before riding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vespadaddy Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 If you ever have caliper bolts fall out, and I have on a different bike, you will never trust factory recommendations again. I will use thread locker on mine. Not a problem if you clean the old stuff off the threads before re-torquing. Torque values are not as critical, (still important but not critical) if thread locker is used. There are some areas where torque is critical, such as engine head bolts, axle pinch bolts etc. Regardless, best protection is a quick check of critical fasteners before riding.The *very best* protection against caliper bolts falling out is safety wire. Ack. Just saw safety wire was already mentioned. It is racetrack proven, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted February 27, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 27, 2016 I took a Team Oregon intermediate course last weekend and got to practice a bunch of emergency stops on my FJ-09. I got it to where I could consistently stop from 20mph in 8-9 feet. It did a little stoppie each time. It still seemed like the front brake feel wasn't great, but I think that may be due to longer fork travel. The dust rings show that I was bottoming my fork; I probably need to increase preload. Regardless of my perceptions about feel, braking power is clearly there. Even the instructors were amazed at how quickly my FJ stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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