docsimple Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 I am struggling with understanding how to set this up. I see basically three adjustments: 1. Spring preload set when you compress the spring. Initially set to 12 mm but it felt stiff and harsh so I reduced to 9 mm. Wrong? 2. Rebound Adjuster at the base of the shock. Set 10 clicks out. 3. Remote preload. This is the part I really don't exactly get. I know it changes something to allow for more or less weight, but I have no idea where to start this. So my questions begin with the simplest, which of these do I adjust for sag? Do I only change the Rebound Adjuster to make it more or less "plush"? Does changing the remote pre-load affect anything else or should I just loosen/tighten based on feel after I load the bike? I know there are a million write-ups/videos. The more I read and watch the less I understand the words coming out of their mouths. Thanks for any guidance. I can't imagine I'm the only one puzzling through this. But ya never know, maybe everyone else got this in kindergarten and I was to busy eating Playdoh. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member michael Posted February 13, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 13, 2016 1. Spring preload set when you compress the spring. Initially set to 12 mm but it felt stiff and harsh so I reduced to 9 mm. Wrong? That isn't how you adjust preload. It isn't like you set some specific amount of preload, you set whatever preload it takes to get the rider sag set properly. How many mm of preload it ends up being is pretty irrelevant as long as you have the correct spring. What matters is the sag (difference between the suspension fully extended and with your body on the bike in your normal riding gear, 1/2 tank of gas, and whatever crap you normally carry on the bike). 2. Rebound Adjuster at the base of the shock. Set 10 clicks out. Again, the number of clicks doesn't really matter. Rebound is adjusted so that when you are riding the bike it doesn't "pack down" when you hit a series of bumps, and so the seat doesn't come up and slap you on the ass when you hit a big one. Rebound controls how fast the spring can extend. 3. Remote preload. This is the part I really don't exactly get. I know it changes something to allow for more or less weight, but I have no idea where to start this. You sure you have remote preload? Normal config of that shock is you have a remote reservoir, but the adjuster on it is for compression damping, not preload. If it is a compression damping adjustment you would probably be best to set it to the least amount of compression and go for a ride. Compression damping is mostly to help prevent bottoming out, and is probably the most difficult one to get right. So my questions begin with the simplest, which of these do I adjust for sag? Spring preload. Getting all this right is not hard if you understand how it all works, but very tough if you don't. It is not something I feel I can teach you in an internet forum post. I suggest you read Racetech's Suspension Bible or read many of the free articles on the net about this stuff. There may be youtube videos about it too. If you are going to be successful setting this up, you need to understand what you are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 that helps a lot. Concise and makes perfect sense. The documentation said the same, with about 10,000 more words. I'll do sag tomorrow and some test riding will tell on the other two settings. I re-checked the docs and yes, it is compression. Apparently with the 8983 the low-speed compression is fixed and the adjustment is for high-speed compression. I'm guessing the high speed compression is for compression when hitting bumps as opposed to compression in a turn. thanks for the help! 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Apparently with the 8983 the low-speed compression is fixed and the adjustment is for high-speed compression. Might want to read that manual more carefully. the black knob on the reservoir adjusts slow rate compression. high is fixed. do a search on YouTube for the suspension seminars by Max. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member michael Posted February 13, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 13, 2016 I'm guessing the high speed compression is for compression when hitting bumps as opposed to compression in a turn. High and low speed compression are related to the speed of the piston/shaft in the shock, and have little to do with the vehicle speed. Imagine you are going over a high soft-edged whoop... that is where low speed compression comes in, because the piston will move upward relatively slowly as you go up the whoop and the spring will extend relatively slowly as you descend the other side. The primary thing low speed comp is used for is to prevent the shock from bottoming out. Now consider a washboard road. Many bumps, sharp-sided, close together. Another example would be a pothole. High speed compression comes into play here, because of the high movement speed of the piston. The piston is moving like a jackhammer in this situation. Less high speed compression will add to the feel of "plushness" on those washboard sections. Both kinds of compression adjustments adjust how fast the spring can compress but are effective on different shock piston velocity ranges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 I have just realized I have been looking at the 8987. I cant even find an 8983 in the damn manual. Using the information given I'm going to do what I have always done - play with the settings till it feels right. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 got the rear sorted. Now it serves as a reminder of the weakness of the andreani's.... 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted February 13, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 13, 2016 Might want to read that manual more carefully. the black knob on the reservoir adjusts slow rate compression. high is fixed. ... It could be a typo but: "The compression adjuster on the 8983 is a high speed compression adjuster." http://www.traxxion.com/Penske-8987-Triple-Adjustable-Remote-Reservoir/ Isn't the 8987 in the link a triple adjuster? With high and low speed compression. The 8983 like mine is a double adjuster with only low speed adjustment available externally. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 the 8983 link is unclear: http://www.traxxion.com/Penske-8983-Double-Adjustable-Shock-Remote-Reservoir-0/ as are the instructions/manual. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 I've owned 3 penske double adjust, all of them slow-speed adjust. Admittedly from the previous generation so it's conceivable that with the 8900 they've changed that around but they'd also need to have redone the internals. Because traditionally the exit of the hose hits a piston with a shim stack on it and a bleed orifice. It's this bleed that the knob is regulating with a needle. The shim stack is not changeable without taking the reservoir apart. And anyhow if the shim stack was done "right" the issue that people want to tune for is 'squat' ie slow rate movement. Now maybe the new system is using a drum or plunger arrangement where it's regulating the amount of oil that reaches the piston and high rate shim face, and 'slow' is handled by fixed orifice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted February 14, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted February 14, 2016 Isn't the 8987 in the link a triple adjuster? With high and low speed compression. The 8983 like mine is a double adjuster with only low speed adjustment available externally. The quote is from the 8987 (triple adj) web page discussing the difference between it and the 8983 (double adj). Wow, good to know. See attached linky: A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 yup, thats what I saw too. Fortunately it's like an ape reading wikipedia. Full of info but nothing getting through. The bike does feel way better now. I think changing the spring to a higher value allowed me set the whole setup a little softer, leaning more on the spring and less on the shock but it feels much more plush. I would love to take the bike in to a shop and get it dialed in but after helping a guy on here with his Andreani's that the shop mangled.... I'll just muddle thorough To bad pattonme is so far away..... Wow, good to know. See attached linky: 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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