Chain Maintenance

[ULEWZ]

Let me add a caveat. I'm referring to original WD40, of course, now a trade name for a whole host of products, some motorcycle specific...which I've never used, and have no comment. 
Although I would say if the original is so brilliant at everything, why would they need the other products?..including a chain lube?

Nope, still wrong. WD-40 is mainly kerosene and is harmless to o-rings. It's a nice friendly solvent that does a nice job of cleaning chains. 

Technically, WD-40 contains stoddard solvent which is a type of mineral spirit. linky 

[Trambo]

The only thing better than this is a tire or oil thread.
 
(rofl)
 
 

[eeetea]

How does WD40 dry out rubber and polycarbonate plastics eeetea? I don't believe my chain oiler, or a Scottoiler throws enough oil on the chain to lubricate the contact between tooth and roller face, is this what really needs to happen? i agree with you about chain wax/dry lube and road grit - I used it once and after really struggling to clean the resultant gunk off the chain vowed never to use it again. 
Do you remember the days before sealed chains, when we used to cook the chain in a grease pan?

 
 
Yes I do...that, by definition, makes me (us?) an old git.
 
Yes a chain oiler..obviously adjusted correctly does provide enough oil...it only needs to slippery not a oil bath...how much oil is between your con rod and big end...microns...
 
O and X rings aren't rubber, so I don't think it will harm them. But the solvent does crack natural rubber over time...any breather pipes, tyres etc on your bike that may get overspray are vunerable.
 
It does have fantastic penetration properties and so will do its darndest to get in and behind the o/x seals...because it is very good at that. Then it will get to the factory lube between the rollers. Not good.
 
Wd40 should not be used on polycarbonates...that is from their website (though I'm struggling to find it now TBH). Over spray may find some plastics on your bike...some of which maybe polycarbonate.
 
If chain oil is too thin, as you suggest - wd40 is even thinner...though that is irrelevant imho..slippery is what's needed.
 
Lastly. All spray cans are the curse of the devil, because of inhalation of aerosols. Seriously not good for your body. Be it deodourant,paint, polish..or WD40...because breathing kerosene is not high on my list of priorities - and I'm not sticking a mask on to lube my items (I save that for "other" activities)

[paulsmith]

Let me add a caveat. I'm referring to original WD40, of course, now a trade name for a whole host of products, some motorcycle specific...which I've never used, and have no comment. 
Although I would say if the original is so brilliant at everything, why would they need the other products?..including a chain lube?

Nope, still wrong. WD-40 is mainly kerosene and is harmless to o-rings. It's a nice friendly solvent that does a nice job of cleaning chains. 

Nope, still wrong. WD-40 is a Water Displacement product that happens to use a bit of kerosene among other things. It is a penetrating fluid that is designed to get in everywhere including past seals, and it is a solvent so acts as a degreaser that removes grease and any other lubricants it finds, including the oils that keep seals supple. And finally, it is a lubricant, but not a long lasting one because of its solvent properties. 
It is a really great tool for a whole host of jobs but like most powerful tools, you can use it to break things as easily as fix them when you don't know what you are doing.
 

[wessie]

Let me add a caveat. I'm referring to original WD40, of course, now a trade name for a whole host of products, some motorcycle specific...which I've never used, and have no comment. 
Although I would say if the original is so brilliant at everything, why would they need the other products?..including a chain lube?

Why not use a trusted brand to market other stuff? 
 
The original WD40 is really a cleaner for stuck mechanisms. The solvent cleans out gunk, drives out moisture and then evaporates, leaving a thin film of lube and a working lock etc. 
 
The other products also have mostly solvent in the can but a different lube, polish or detergent in the mix. 
 
Seems eminently sensible to me.
 
As others say, your concerns about the original WD40 are unfounded. Kerosene is the solvent and this is what Yamaha, DID etc recommend as the solvent of choice to clean X ring chains. In the UK you can get kerosene under a number of names from aircraft fuel, domestic heating oil or more commonly in hardware stores, as paraffin. About £7 for 4 litres compared to £3 for a 200ml can in the latest Aldi promo. 
 
 

[wessie]

Nope, still wrong. WD-40 is mainly kerosene and is harmless to o-rings. It's a nice friendly solvent that does a nice job of cleaning chains. 

Technically, WD-40 contains stoddard solvent which is a type of mineral spirit. linky

or not: 
WHAT'S STODDARD SOLVENT?
 
Myth: WD-40® contains Stoddard Solvent.
 
Fact: Over the past few decades, the name Stoddard Solvent was synonymous with all mineral spirits. Today, the mineral spirits found in products like ours are more refined and processed (see hydrogenation, hydrotreating and distillation techniques) providing mixtures with varying boiling points, cleaning ability, and chemical composition.
 
The catchall phrase “Stoddard Solvent” is no longer adequate to tell the proper story. WD-40® does indeed have 50% mineral spirits, but they are refined and purified for specific characteristics needed to meet today’s performance, regulatory and safety requirements.
 

[eeetea]

Technically, WD-40 contains stoddard solvent which is a type of mineral spirit. linky

or not: 
WHAT'S STODDARD SOLVENT?
 
Myth: WD-40® contains Stoddard Solvent.
 
Fact: Over the past few decades, the name Stoddard Solvent was synonymous with all mineral spirits. Today, the mineral spirits found in products like ours are more refined and processed (see hydrogenation, hydrotreating and distillation techniques) providing mixtures with varying boiling points, cleaning ability, and chemical composition.
 
The catchall phrase “Stoddard Solvent” is no longer adequate to tell the proper story. WD-40® does indeed have 50% mineral spirits, but they are refined and purified for specific characteristics needed to meet today’s performance, regulatory and safety requirements.

so, wd40 has changed? Smells the same.

[fddriver2]

or not: 
WHAT'S STODDARD SOLVENT?
 
Myth: WD-40® contains Stoddard Solvent.
 
Fact: Over the past few decades, the name Stoddard Solvent was synonymous with all mineral spirits. Today, the mineral spirits found in products like ours are more refined and processed (see hydrogenation, hydrotreating and distillation techniques) providing mixtures with varying boiling points, cleaning ability, and chemical composition.
 
The catchall phrase “Stoddard Solvent” is no longer adequate to tell the proper story. WD-40® does indeed have 50% mineral spirits, but they are refined and purified for specific characteristics needed to meet today’s performance, regulatory and safety requirements.

so, wd40 has changed? Smells the same.

Tastes the same too. I just checked... 

[wessie]

and the problem with WD40 making several products is that one might inadvertently pick up a can of chain lube thinking it is WD40 brake cleaner.
 
One of the chaps on my trip to Germany starting in 15 minutes was changing his rear brake pads yesterday evening. apparently they brakes don't work too well when the pads have been bathed in chain lube. This isn't @johan BTW.

[eeetea]

Hmmm could be worse 

[steveb]

I just had the chain re set by my mechanic, as I had him lube the swingarm, and he said it was in great shape. It has 12,000 miles on it vs. the first chain that was toast at 14,000. This chain is an EK designed chain for liter bikes. Next chain will be an EK designed for 1300 cc bikes. Just stronger and will last longer. Note: longer mean less adjustments. Also noted was that the swingarm bearings were relatively dry. This is common on Yamaha's as Yamaha doesn't believe in wasting any lube.

My chain is inconsistently stretched and I'm ready to replace it at 10,500 miles.  :^(   Much too early!  (I did regularly lube the chain with Chain Wax during most of it's life - Recently switched to PJ1 Blue, and planning on installing the Tutoro chain oiler).   
In any event, I'm planning a trip at the end of August that will be @6000 miles long.  I will be replacing the chain before then.  The sprockets still look fine.  I'm very interested in the EK chains you mentioned.  Are you talking about the ZVX3 or ZZZ series?  I figure I might as well start with a stronger version of the chain and then do my best to keep it in good shape. 
 
Thanks for any recommendations!
 
 

[micah2074]

Any recommendations for a solid/reliable chain breaker/riveting tool?

 
I use a dremel to remove and a motionpro to rivet.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0467
You can find it cheaper.

[micah2074]

With this you wouldn't even need a rivet tool.
https://www.amazon.com/EK-Chain-Screw-Connecting-X-Ring/dp/B003CJAMIQ
I might try one next time I replace a chain.

[adjuster]

This stuff rules.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DuPont-11-oz-Teflon-Multi-Use-Lubricant/1059839
 
No mess.
No fling.
Drys up after you apply it, it penetrates and then the waxy coating forms, and dirt does not stick as much. (And any dirt in the wax is trapped in the wax, to be easy to wipe off, or comes off in use, and does not stick to your rims, or bike. Just goes away. (SO I guess it's not no fling, but no fling of sticky stuff?)
 
I have used cardboard shields in the past, that you can slide up to protect the rear wheel from overspray, but found on the FJ09 you can lube the chain at the plastic slider just aft of the front sprocket, where the chain is designed to rub on the plastic "slider" over the swingarm pivot point. Apply there, while rotating the wheel "backwards" with your right hand, and coat both sides of the links, and you are done.
 
Takes about 20 seconds. Takes longer to shake up the can, and make sure the teflon is suspended in the can before you spray it.'
 
I ride 5 days a week all summer long, and my chains on all my bikes have never given me any problems with this stuff, and it's CHEAPER than the motorcycle specific dry waxes or messy white lithium grease chain lubes of the past.
 
Teflon dry wax with moly is the shiznet folks. But this stuff at Lowe's is cheap, and works just fine. (And the Dupont moly stuff is 20.00 per can, while the "normal" teflon chain wax is only about 6.00.... )
 
I really like that the dirt and any moisture is displaced by this spray on application. Then in a few seconds, the liquid turns in a wax, and seals up the chain from the elements. It is safe for seals according to DuPont, and I've never had any issues. I don't use kerosene on my chains, with this lube you never need it. You just just apply over the chain, never needing to clean it.
 
PERIOD. The new lube just displaces any dirt/grime or water on the chain, and coats is with new lube and a waxy protective layer. No rust, no fuss. Easy as it gets. Apply when the chain is nice and warm, when you get back from a ride. I hit mine up at least one tank of fuel, or after every ride in the rain. A can lasts about a year or more.

[adjuster]

Weellllll Crap. Looks like the "Dry lube" part has changed.. No longer in the blue can, you have to make sure you get the chain wax, or DuPont is pulling your chain! LOL
 
Seriously, I use this stuff on my bikes, weapons and all sorts of stuff that need lubrication, but I don't want to have attract dust and dirt. (Like a hand gun or rifle... Or motorcycle chain, door hinges all sorts of stuff.)
 
Looks like the "new" package is now in a yellow can, but make sure it's DRY WAX lube. Moly is nice to have along with the Teflon, so when I buy my next few cans, I guess I'll upgrade. (Or if I find a source of the original stuff, I'll just buy out what they have, and horde it. LOL)