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Garage Opener Remote


piotrek

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When I had the CBR-250, the bike was small enough that I simply rode up to my garage door (inclined driveway), stretched out a bit to reach the keypad and voila... the door opened. I could do the same on way out of the garage. I can't do that anymore with the FJ... and especially not when I start riding with side cases. I needed a remote. 
I bought a remote that was compatible with the opener ($30) and a "waterproof" normally open momentary push button ($3). Removed the circuit board, soldered wires for the button to the unused terminals on traces that were in parallel with the micro switch (left original micro switch in place). Hot glued the board into a small project box.
 
http://i.imgur.com/gf1p3rJ.jpg
 
This is the "waterproof" push button I used. I will be replacing it with a proper waterproof button (same size stem diameter) in the coming weeks, but that's what I have for now. The replacement will look very similar. I decided the left hand side of the upper tank trim as a good spot for the button.
 
http://i.imgur.com/IZNmy4K.jpg
 
I looked for a good place to put the remote, and then went the easy route... under the seat. Cable then has to make Pick a side of the bike and strip the plastic off (2WD have it on the forum here somewhere), I chose the right side. Photo shows how I routed the cable (in flexible loom). The two attachment points shown will keep the cable slightly stretched and in place.
 
http://i.imgur.com/QyQRCVW.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/FaBISFE.jpg
 
...remote attached with Velcro to the battery.
 
http://i.imgur.com/Aqg78BT.jpg
 
...this assembly is ready to go. NOTE: drilling in thin, flimsy ABS is a dodgy exercise. Have someone help you hold the piece firmly in place (NOT ON THE BIKE). Start with a small bit and work in small bit size increments up to the size of the opening just big enough to insert the push button stem.... otherwise you'll be buying a new piece of thin flimsy ABS.
 
http://i.imgur.com/xr8kILa.jpg
 
The wires from the remote and from the button connect once the upper tank trim assembly is loosely in place. I used sealing shrink tubing. There was some slack cable to contend with and needed to tuck it in somewhere. I did that by lifting the tank trim and fastening the slack to a convenient anchor point right around the centre front of the tank (above the wire loom attachment area).
 
http://i.imgur.com/j8mEbYV.jpg
 
Finished product. No more dismounting the bike... push the button and ride right in.
 
http://i.imgur.com/SiPsopB.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/Tx1CUea.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/9hhalzk.jpg
 
I did look at other options, including this one that proved to be somewhat unreliable...
 
https://youtu.be/UJwN4QYcs7c.
 
 

No worky. I don't use imgur, but I am told you bring up the photo in Imgur and just drag it into the post.  
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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The "trickest" garage door opener install I have seen involves a garage door remote, a bit of wire to do what was done in this install and then in place of the switch a relay is installed on the high beam side of the headlights. When you turn on the high beams, the solenoid closes the contacts and actuates the opener. Pull up to the garage and simply flash the high beams and the garage door opens.
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In this type of installation you DO NOT use your typical Bosch or other 5-pin relay. Rather a DPDT relay switch is used which simply uses the 12V signal from the high side of the headlight to trigger a switch which closes the circuit on the garage door opener side. Voltage never passes from one side to the other. You leave the button battery or 9V in the existing garage door opener tucked away safely somewhere on the bike. The downside is that you will need to replace the battery in the opener more often if you are regular night rider using your high beams.
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The downside is that you will need to replace the battery in the opener more often if you are regular night rider using your high beams.
...right, I for one ride with high beam on during daylight. Don't see a reason why a quality (low draw) automotive type coil can't be used in parallel with the existing high beam relay...I assume there is one. There of course is a limit on how many coils you can hang off the circuit. 
Checked the remote and it does stay energised as long as the button is pressed...bummer.
You could use a momentary, non-latching relay.  This will give a pulse and then turn off again.  The usually have a trimpot that allows you to set the length of the pulse.
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I did exactly what piotrek demonstrated except for one thing. Instead of drilling a hole in the trim piece for the button, I just took the clutch side switch gear apart and removed the little circular plug in the lower right corner of it and put the button fits perfect. Like it was designed for it. I believe it's for the CC on the Superten. Someone else posted this location a while back.
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Piotrek, your install of the garage door opener is pretty much exactly what I plan to do. I plan on installing a black momentary button further up on the plastic trim around the tank to avoid any problems in drilling through it. Yours looks great. I can't imagine why anyone would want to wire into the bikes electrics when this way is simpler and foolproof. Nice job!
Brad
Selbyville, DE
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I did exactly what piotrek demonstrated except for one thing. Instead of drilling a hole in the trim piece for the button, I just took the clutch side switch gear apart and removed the little circular plug in the lower right corner of it and put the button fits perfect. Like it was designed for it. I believe it's for the CC on the Superten. Someone else posted this location a while back.
I really like this idea. I first need to find a remote that works with my old ass garage door opener.
 
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I bought and installed one of these over the winter:
http://www.mo-door.com/Micro_Waterproof_Switch.html
 
$70, so about 2X what you did, but a lot less messing around. I put the switch on the left switch cluster on the flat part where the Super T CC switch would go, and mounted the business end to the tank underneath the plastic trim piece on the left. Works great so far!
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...I first need to find a remote that works with my old ass garage door opener.
...for those in Canada, here's where I got mine...http://www.overheaddoorparts.ca/. Got good help from them.
For those most anywhere, you really ought to consider the Mo-Door  http://www.mo-door.com/index.html Have been using mine for a year now and it works a treat. Mine is stashed in the top of my SW Motech Quick Lock EVO Engage tank bag, with the 12" lead and the switch poking out the front wire entrance. I am well pleased with it, and it integrates nicely with my "wireless" theme on this bike (versus headset wires, etc. hanging out). Oh, and my garage door opener is a '90s model.  
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