Jump to content

Flashtune review.


Recommended Posts

 
Video of my thoughts on using FTECU Flashtune. The road was bumpy, footage a bit shaky... :(

2015 Matte Grey
Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can anyone point me to a detailed discussion of the options available on a ecu flash?
 
I'll probably have my ecu reflashed at some point, but want to have carefully considered how I want mine setup before hand.
 
Thanks, Bill
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's plenty of detail in one of the supporting vendors area. 2 Wheel Dyno Works provides this service and there is a thread dedicated to the available options.
2015 Matte Grey
Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
@piotrek what do you mean by "Remove Throttle-by-Wire restrictions"??
 
If it's similar to the R1 I used to own, the electronic throttle isn't a 1:1 ratio. The computer gives you something different from what you're asking for depending on engine rpm.
 
So from a dead stop if you pin it to full, the computer will give you about 50% then slowly ramp up to say 87% and then actually tapers back a bit as you get to max rpm for that gear.
 
This, of course, is only if the FJ throttle is electronic. I haven't really checked to see if it is.
 
Here's an example
 
9491bbdf7eca9e57f2cbf3c8d501368a.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @jjm I was aware that that could be manipulated, just didn't know that's what it was called. Isn't that the main difference between A, STD, and B mode?

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont think theirs any power difference between the 3 modes, myself.
 
To me it seems like A mode just makes it a quick action throttle. ie, requiring less movement for the same input. B mode being the opposite.
 
I could be wrong. B mode does give the 'slow as phuck' impression when you flick to it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
I dont think theirs any power difference between the 3 modes, myself.  
To me it seems like A mode just makes it a quick action throttle. ie, requiring less movement for the same input. B mode being the opposite.
 
I could be wrong. B mode does give the 'slow as phuck' impression when you flick to it.
A mode - 107whp/65wtqB mode - 96whp/59wtq
 
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont think theirs any power difference between the 3 modes, myself.  
To me it seems like A mode just makes it a quick action throttle. ie, requiring less movement for the same input. B mode being the opposite.
 
I could be wrong. B mode does give the 'slow as phuck' impression when you flick to it.
 
There are dyno charts for all 3 modes out there somewhere. A and STD have the same peak output, but you get the torque a little earlier in A mode. B does not get the same peak power. Which leads me to believe that the throttle map does not allow you 100% throttle in B mode.
 
Edit.. @Clint beat me to it..

'15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras...

Fayetteville, GA, USA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont think theirs any power difference between the 3 modes, myself.  
To me it seems like A mode just makes it a quick action throttle. ie, requiring less movement for the same input. B mode being the opposite.
 
I could be wrong. B mode does give the 'slow as phuck' impression when you flick to it.
A mode - 107whp/65wtq 
B mode - 96whp/59wtq

ah okay. didn't realise that. Good to know. 
 
It feels like about 30bhp when you've come from A mode doesnt it. I came out of a gravel carpark in B mode once... off onto the main road and it wouldn't go anywhere. I've yet to fully gun it in B mode though tbf..
 
Quite a shock haha. 
 
 
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
Any recommendations, in addition to the following base list? 
– Remove Throttle-by-Wire restrictions
– Standard engine braking reduction
– Disable Injector Decel Cut
– Professional fuel map modification to suit exhaust
– Removal of all gear based or speed dependent restrictions, TRE
– Optimized timing maps for 91+ octane
– Disable AIS valve (always closed)
– Reduce Fan Temps 205°F
+ Default to A-Mode
+ ????
 
Many thanks for any tips....

...still interested in some feedback/tips on the shopping list... especially from folks who've gone the FT route directly and have more insight into some more obvious things to look for. Hopefully that's not taboo.  
Disabling the injectors during decel and disabling the AIS valve helps prevent backfiring while decelerating with aftermarket exhaust. As I understand it, during decel the injectors and AIS valve work together to create intentional backfires to ensure that all of the fuel is burned in order to reduce emissions. These backfires are present with the stock exhaust, but barely audible. But I can say from experience that they are very audible with aftermarket exhaust. I put on the M4 slip-on, and before I did the flash, the backfires were embarrassing. In the dark, I could actually see it spit flames. I deactivated these two during the flash, and no more backfires.
Since I normally ride in A mode, I set it to default to that so that I don't have to switch to it every time I start the bike.
I also disabled the top speed limiter. Do I need to go faster than 115? No. But do I need Yamaha telling me I can't? Also no.
The tuner software comes with some fuel maps you can select that were designed via dyno. It gives you full access to the stock fuel map, so you can tweak it yourself. It also allows you to download fuel maps from 3rd party sources. I downloaded one for my slip-on from Power Commander (they offer them for free on their website.) It's as easy as downloading it to your desktop and then dragging it into the software. Also, before you start any of this, it saves your stock program as a backup. So if you screw anything up, you can just return everything to stock and start over.
I left the engine braking and fan temps alone.
I chose to go with the FTECU for a few reasons. I enjoy doing things myself and learning new things. And if I decide to go with a full exhaust down the road, requiring a 2nd flash, it will already have paid for itself. And I had no down time doing the flash, and won't for future flashes.
 
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
A mode - 107whp/65wtq 
B mode - 96whp/59wtq

ah okay. didn't realise that. Good to know.  
It feels like about 30bhp when you've come from A mode doesnt it. I came out of a gravel carpark in B mode once... off onto the main road and it wouldn't go anywhere. I've yet to fully gun it in B mode though tbf..
 
Quite a shock haha. 
 
 

Accelerating from gravel to a paved surface might have engaged TCS, which would induce exactly what you felt.
Piedmont of NC
'15 FJ-09
'94 GTS-1000
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×