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Fixing the FJ-09 Achilles Heel - Oil Drain Plug


Cruizin

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I'll make it three stars, Thanks for sharing.
Bill
2015 Heeled by the hands of Nel's @ 2WheelDynoworks
K-Tech forks and shock
lots of other expensive unimportant stuff.
The "Ex" 2003 FZ1
Ride more, worry less.
 
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I'd read about this modification on another board, but basically there is a well know achilles heel on the FJ-09 in that the oil drain plug is the low point on the bike. To provide for this, Yamaha cast a protective ramp on the bottom of the oil pan, but FZ-09 riders report that when it hits, it simply cracks the pan like this. drainplug5.jpg
To prevent this from happening, replace the OEM drain plug with a low profile unit from Mazda for about $8.
drainplug4.jpgdrainplug3.jpg
Then use a file, Dremel tool or a die grinder to cut down the ramp. This makes the header pipes and catcon the low point.
drainplug1.jpg
 

Do you need to treat the cut with anything so it doesn't rust?
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This is definitely  a great idea if we indeed have the same clearance issues as the FZ-09. We are taller. I will measure from the drain plug to the ground and compare that to the FZ and see. Seems this cracking issue happens very simply by scraping from a highside scrape, like going over a speed bump. Anybody with an FZ care to measure so we can compare?
A couple of strategically placed stress reliefs cut into the guard might also help so the guard will snap off, vs cracking the oil pan. Then we would buy the low profile drain bolt.
 
Just checked my FJ, looks like 5.5 inches with the bike upright, no weight on seat, from ground to tip of oil drain plug. NOT much.
 
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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I just went out and measured both the FZ and the FJ and they are the same at 5.5 inches.:)  The change in drain plug will probably net you 1/4" better clearance but better yet is that the bump will most likely only scrap the bottom, avoiding a concentrated pressure point as now designed.  The Mazada drain plug is a great idea.  Thanks so much.
 

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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I just picked this up at NAPA. It is a replacement part for a Mazda drain plug. Not exactly the same but suppose to work. It is a 10MM x 1.5 pitch with a 45 Tork. Will check it out next time I change oil. It has a rubber "O" Ring gasket, therefore the torque may only be required to be 10-12 lbs. (?)  Will have to check that out. If that is the case and it works, that would put an end to over torqueing the drain plugs and stripping the threads.  $3.62.
FtDilUM.jpg

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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I just picked this up at NAPA. It is a replacement part for a Mazda drain plug. Not exactly the same but suppose to work. It is a 10MM x 1.5 pitch with a 45 Tork. Will check it out next time I change oil. It has a rubber "O" Ring gasket, therefore the torque may only be required to be 10-12 lbs. (?)  Will have to check that out. If that is the case and it works, that would put an end to over torqueing the drain plugs and stripping the threads.  $3.62. FtDilUM.jpg
If you replace your OEM drain plug with a plug that uses a different sealing device (o-ring vs crush washer), I hope you have the background fastener knowledge to ensure that this new plug won't be more likely to back out from vibration and simultaneously oil your rear tire AND cook your motor. 
Personally, I do not, so I would be reluctant to install such a different fastener than OEM, especially on such a crucial, oil sealing application.  Maybe a machinist will weigh in?
 
Personally, I like to safety wire my oil drain plugs.  It's probably overkill for a streetbike, but it is easy to do, and there must be SOME reason that roadracing clubs require it...
 
 
 
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I just picked this up at NAPA. It is a replacement part for a Mazda drain plug. Not exactly the same but suppose to work. It is a 10MM x 1.5 pitch with a 45 Tork. Will check it out next time I change oil. It has a rubber "O" Ring gasket, therefore the torque may only be required to be 10-12 lbs. (?)  Will have to check that out. If that is the case and it works, that would put an end to over torqueing the drain plugs and stripping the threads.  $3.62. FtDilUM.jpg
Niice !! I'd like to know the part number too !! Hopefully the o'ring can easily be found at Napa too
 
 
And for the torque... same as oem... good and tight and I'll have peace of mind! 
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That small torx bit will give you fits if it gets tight. The wrench size is too small to put any real torque on it to remove it.
On the other hand, I just ordered two of the Mazda FS50-21-249 low profile plugs and will do the mod when I change my oil next. I bought one for Ti also if he is listening.
 
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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