Fixing the FJ-09 Achilles Heel - Oil Drain Plug

[checkereddemon]

As for applying proper torque values to fasteners, I, like many others, usually go by feel. The purpose of a bolt is to mate two surfaces together without fear of them coming loose during service. And this is done by actually threading the fastener in until it hits a "soft" stop. And here is where I go into "by feel" mode. I find that I can generally go from 1/4 to 1/2 a turn in order to seat the fastener.
 
If I haven't a particular re-build before, I usually proceed with extreme caution and back out 2-3 times and do it over, just so I can get a feel for this particular fastener. In over 45 years of wridin' and mechanicken , and with a fair dose of plain ol' good luck, I've fortunately stripped only a small handful of bolts - Hallelujah!!
 
The bolt will acually "stretch" just a bit, this is how it maintains its fastening power. And you can feel it if you sit back and really concentrate. Maybe find some junk surfaces that could be used as beta sites and stretch away. A little bit of practice here will pay off big in the future!
 
-CD-

[sareis]

Sean I just went to a Buell site and read up on drain plug problems with over tightening the plugs. Seams to be the same issue that we have experienced with Yamaha's spec. of 31 ft. lbs. In short some were recommending that 16 ft. lbs be used on the Buell while using the stock set up of bolt with rubber O-ring. Note that if you use any thread sealant and tighten with a torque wrench, that you will be tightening more than the torque is showing on the wrench. Also (for others) note that by not cleaning the oil off the threads in the pan and on the bolts that you will over tighten the bolt if you use the Yamaha spec of 31 ft. lbs. 26-27 would be safe and more accurately in line with Mfrs recommendations of 31. I repeat this every chance I get as it seams to be a continuous problem, and new people to these bikes, end up stripping out the aluminium threads in the pans by tightening with a torque wrench to mfr's spec of 31 ft lbs.

I agree with everything you are saying. I am very careful to clean threads before I tighten anything. I have built many engines and make sure I use the proper procedures. You are very right about oil and thread sealant being on the threads causing over tightening. I use a Snap-On torque wrench that gets calibrated every year and set to zero after every use to insure the proper torque. I have seen others tightening bolts with a torque wrench and when it clicks they give it a couple more pulls. Maybe this combined with oil being on the threads is what is happening when the strip the drain plug threads.  
I personally wire wrap everything including my oil filter (K&N KN-204). I have jigs to drill the holes in the bolts if they don't have one.
 
Thanks for doing the research and making everyone aware to be careful.
 
 

[docsimple]

this may sound lazy and disrespectful to my machines..... BUT, I have never used a torque wrench on any oil drain plug in any vehicle I have ever owned. Hand tighten plus 1/4-1/2 turn additional tightening with a socket. Also, never had a problem.

[estell]

This mod saved my oil pan a few days ago while navigating a twisty and uneven old road. My center stand hit pavement after riding through a dip. I expect that it would have been my oil pan if I had not performed this mod. Glad I did this one.

[BentAero]

This mod saved my oil pan a few days ago while navigating a twisty and uneven old road. My center stand hit pavement after riding through a dip. I expect that it would have been my oil pan if I had not performed this mod. Glad I did this one.

Just curious; what is your weight with riding gear? Luggage/cargo weight? Still running the pathetically soft stock suspension?

[estell]

Just curious; what is your weight with riding gear? Luggage/cargo weight? Still running the pathetically soft stock suspension?

My weight with riding gear is about 220 lbs. My luggage and cargo added another 10 lbs. I am running the stock suspension. The rider sag is adjusted to about 33%. As I recall that is around 41-43mm sag.
I understand that a suspension upgrade would allow me to ride faster on the same roads. So far I am content with speeds that I can ride on the stock suspension. I will consider less rebound damping the next time I am on a similar road.
 

[n5odj]

This may be old news, but here goes. My FJ09's oilplug doesn't look like the one in the picture. It is mounted vertically at the front edge of the oilpan. Maybe Yamaha changed the design. Not sure exactly when the bike was built, but I bought it in August 2016.

[tarsolace]

Relax......  You don't have a problem.  Yamaha redesigned where the drain is located for 2016.....
 

[caferacer]

Relax......  You don't have a problem.  Yamaha redesigned where the drain is located for half of 2016.....

2016 with bottom-drain plug chiming in :/

[suncoaster]

Just fixed my early 2016 model with the plug in the bottom of the pan.
A minute with a hacksaw and file and all is done.
I'd still put a bash plate and D/S tyres to run dirt roads with though.

 

[BentAero]

An alternative to the Dorman 65407 (that I could never find in stock anywhere including Amazon) and the Mazda drain plug referenced earlier in this thread is the Volkswagon N-911-679-01. It's a T45 Torx driven plug identical to the Mazda version. As you can see from the VW dealership receipt, it's even less money than the others. BTW, our drain plugs are the very common 14mm x 1.5 thread, not 10 x 1.5
 

 

[2and3cylinders]

I don't really have an issue with Torx drive but I like having commonality of fastener removal/installation tools; i.e., I went with the Mazda plug as it uses socket head hex drive (Allen wrench) like most of the other exposed fasteners on the FJ-09.

[trokarr]

I recently bought a new 2016 FJ-09 and also have the oil plug on the bottom of the pan (8/15 manufacture date for the bike). I talked to the service manager where I bought the bike about getting an updated oil pan under warranty and he said he would talk to the Yamaha Canada rep. This is his response:
 
Hello Anton
 
I talked to the guys at Yamaha and they said they will not be updating the oil pan and bolts on the bikes with the downward facing drain bolts. It is a Mid Year Update in europe and then they changed the oil pans to the FZ09 pan after they ran out of the one that you have. They said in europe , there are a bunch of these bikes that have been converted to Enduro with knobby tires and those are the guys that are having issues.
Sorry i cant get that updated for you.
 
Glen Wozney
Service Manager
Wildwood Motorsports
 
 
So no luck.  Looks like I will be doing the Mazda oil plug mod on my first oil change.

[fanowater]

I just did this. For anyone thinking it might be risky. Don't. It is super easy and pretty quick (less than 30 minutes including gathering tools, popping the top off the beer, draining oil, filing and topping off the oil again.) The cast aluminum pan files very easily and can be hack sawed as well. No need for grinders.
 
Many thanks to those who listed parts and shared pictures. Cheers
 

[eeetea]

Excellent info. thanks for sharing. For those in the UK. Better than, and cheaper than, go to Accu.co.uk  A4 (316) Marine grade Stainless for £1.35 (Mazda is £9.28!!)
 
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