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Reducing throttle effort


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1 hour ago, dazzler24 said:

I'm wondering if those that did it had to re-check their APS mod (if they'd done that too) which would then lead to re-checking the McCruise calibration

I think it would be good (prudent?) to check/set the APS and re-calibrate the MCCruise. Just a minor tweak of the APS can have a surprising effect on how MCCruise sets/cancels... so I've heard 😬

I will have this mod done tonight, but assembly on the bike will have to wait... return cable is frayed. I suspect it wasn't exiting cleanly out of the tube. Back-ordered at Yamaha Canada, but I managed to source the assembly from Partzilla.

Edited by piotrek
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Done. @kilo3 had a neat idea with the flat head bolt, so I adopted it. The bracketry on the FJ is a little different... I had to use a washer to offset the valley and let the spring land where it wanted to naturally. One more threaded hole on there in the event I end up wanting more tension, but it feels good as is. It would suck to have to pull the TB out again.

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8 hours ago, piotrek said:

Done. @kilo3 had a neat idea with the flat head bolt, so I adopted it. The bracketry on the FJ is a little different... I had to use a washer to offset the valley and let the spring land where it wanted to naturally. One more threaded hole on there in the event I end up wanting more tension, but it feels good as is. It would suck to have to pull the TB out again.

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Looks good.  So would you say you've drilled your hole in about the middle of the 'arc' for your bolt location?

i.e. Virtually in-line with the actuating shaft when looking from the side when TB is installed?  It looks like it but photos can be deceiving.

Thanks for posting.

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12 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

So would you say you've drilled your hole in about the middle of the 'arc' for your bolt location?

i.e. Virtually in-line with the actuating shaft when looking from the side when TB is installed?  It looks like it but photos can be deceiving.

Hmm... maybe 2-3mm higher than the centre-line of the shaft. It is hard to tell and I wouldn't want to mislead. Best you 'bench-test' it first with cables attached and locking pliers. 🙂

throttle_spring_pliers.png.0a7b1f7e4f851f9c0c21e6193b043abb.png

 

Edited by piotrek
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54 minutes ago, piotrek said:

 Best you 'bench-test' it first with cables attached and locking pliers. 🙂

throttle_spring_pliers.png.0a7b1f7e4f851f9c0c21e6193b043abb.png

 

Yes, that's good advice and will do.  Thanks.

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  • 2 months later...

I am in the process of making this modification
and I have a problem.
The 6 screws below the throttle body are lloose now.
Thanks to your information how to do it.
The throttle body does not move a millimeter even if I pull it very hard.
Are there any other fasteners around the housing
that I do not know yet ?
What is the best way to reinstall the housing ?
First attach the rubber bumper with the lower screws or attach the rubber bumpers first to the housing with the upper screw and then put the whole thing together. ?
Thanks for the help in advance.

 

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It will be pretty snug, so rock it back and forth while pulling up. Bottom clamps should be easier to access, but no matter really so long as the clamps are loose. The bottom of the boots are keyed against the block, so If you remove the boots completely at both ends (say for cleaning), just reinstall them on the block first and then insert the throttle body and tighten the top clamps.

Edited by piotrek

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  • 11 months later...
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On 12/13/2022 at 4:26 PM, piotrek said:

Hmm... maybe 2-3mm higher than the centre-line of the shaft. It is hard to tell and I wouldn't want to mislead. Best you 'bench-test' it first with cables attached and locking pliers. 🙂

throttle_spring_pliers.png.0a7b1f7e4f851f9c0c21e6193b043abb.png

 

What size screw did you use?

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3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Finally doin it!

Will report back...

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Keen to hear your impressions 2plus3.

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3 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Keen to hear your impressions 2plus3.

I'm humpin to get my major maintenance done this month in bites.  May defer replacing the chain just to get it on the road ASAP.

Static throttle resistance check before & after may not happen.  Can drill a small hole in my Cramp Buster to ulilize as a lever to hook my fish scale to for a objective "scientific" measurement. 

But a subjective comparison may have to do.

However, after weeks of amazingly good weather, it seems we've gone back to winter for a while of course.  We can get 6 inches of snow on Easter. 

 

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Well, it's done I probably should have replaced the frigging cable.I had a brand new one but I got lazy

Anyway, throttle pull is now reduced to probably sixty percent of what it was.

I drilled and tapped two holes

The lower one had enough tension but it wasn't snapping as loud as I wanted it to be, so so I raised the screw to the upper hole that provided more tension on the spring.

I have a flat washer and lock washer under the nut for the screw plus I added thread to thread sealant; which I also put on the pulley nut .

Nothing like a belt and  suspenders

Now I'm kind of kicking myself for not installing the brand new cables I had.

But probably won't because pulling apart the throttle pod is a PI.T.A with the heated grips.

Until it's running.I won't know for sure but I think I'll be happy enough.

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