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How to losen rear axle nut


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So call me incompetent, but how am I supposed to listen the axle nut to tighten the chain? I started to unthread the nut and noticed on the left side the axle just starts deforming the adjuster plate. There isn't really much of a flat on that side to get a wrench on it. Am I missing something?
'15 FJ-09 with an aftermarket parts addiction
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1 1/16 socket wrench fits perfect, and if it is really tight, put pipe over the end of the wrench for leverage.....
 
Or as my dad taught me, jump up and down on the end of the wrench (not recommended)
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So call me incompetent, but how am I supposed to listen the axle nut to tighten the chain? I started to unthread the nut and noticed on the left side the axle just starts deforming the adjuster plate. There isn't really much of a flat on that side to get a wrench on it. Am I missing something?
Can you put up a picture(s) of the situation as it is? There are some pretty good minds on this forum, and I'll bet a few can help you out. As David said, a 1 1/16 socket fits perfectly, and a sharp rap with a good sized hammer on a breaker bar will transmit the force to the nut quickly much like an air wrench. This is more likely to cause the nut to break loose before the axle starts to turn with it.
 
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I think thetruck is referring to the way the factory adjuster will be slightly deformed by the bolt head on the left side when you loosen or tighten down the axle. The bolt head on the axle has 2 flats. Those flats are meant to ride up tight against the adjusters to prevent the rotation of the axle as the nut is tightened or loosened. One needs to make sure the axle is tight against the adjuster to keep this from happening. It generally requires a second pair of hands to accomplish this. I understand his plight as mine suffered said deformation. My solution was to scrap the factory adjusters and replace them with the GYTR units that positively engage the entire bolt head and well as provide positive adjustment engagement both fore and aft for the axle. They are not cheap but allow you to get the rear wheel lined up just about perfectly with minimal hassle. My pictures are not that good, had the wrong lens on the camera but I think the issue is apparent.
 
 
Factory Adjuster some use...
 
P8279453_zpsu1bsnphx.jpg
 
And the GYTR unit...
 
 
P8279450_zpswhcnqcsb.jpg
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  • 7 months later...
So call me incompetent, but how am I supposed to listen the axle nut to tighten the chain? I started to unthread the nut and noticed on the left side the axle just starts deforming the adjuster plate. There isn't really much of a flat on that side to get a wrench on it. Am I missing something?
The manual says to loosen the nut with the bike on the prop stand. Then put on centre stand for chain adjust or wheel removal etc. This might be important! 
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I think the OP may have solved the problem in the time since August last year

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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So call me incompetent, but how am I supposed to listen the axle nut to tighten the chain? I started to unthread the nut and noticed on the left side the axle just starts deforming the adjuster plate. There isn't really much of a flat on that side to get a wrench on it. Am I missing something?
The manual says to loosen the nut with the bike on the prop stand. Then put on centre stand for chain adjust or wheel removal etc. This might be important!
I believe the main reason is that, one puts over a 100 ft lbs on the axle nut to tighten and it may take more to loosing.  If the bike is on the center stand one my accidentally rotate the bike enough that it will fall over.  Just a safety precaution.  I'm at 40,000 now and still working with the OEM stuff.  Ready to get a new adjuster that works better than the old and my adjuster plate is almost toast.  As care as I am, it still gets squished.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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