norcal616 Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 I wanna point out...there is a small super advance fine tuning section that should be done using the std switch button... they recommend you dont mess with the settings in this "section" and if help is needed im assuming McCruise can easily help trouble shoot using the std switch vs recalling 7(?) different options... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Well, order is finally placed. Not sure how quickly MCCruise will get it shipped, but it should be on its way to be very shortly. In the end, as much as I preferred the "stock" appearance of the FJR/Super10 switch, I decided saving money was more important, and will be using the MCCruise control unit. Not counting installation cost (if one pays someone else to install, which I haven't yet decided which route I'll go), the OEM switch, plus appropriate patch harness, adds an additional $250-300 to the cost. Sometimes cost has to take president over looks. Besides, the MCCruise control unit isn't that bad in looks. One thing no one (as far as I have noticed) has pointed out is that, even if one does decide to go with an OEM switch, you still NEED to use the MCCruise controller for diagnostics, setup, etc. That's why, in their manual, they clearly state you NEED to keep the control switch, even if you plan on using an OEM switch. For those who are interested in the MCCruise Cruise Control, but are "on the fence" regarding using the MCCruise controller switch, or a Yamaha OEM switch, the previously-mentioned point is worth taking into consideration (not to mention the additional $250-300 cost).I think I was the first person to purchase the MCCruise on the forum, and the ST/FJR switches were not even an option. I think you would have to be anal to the point of paralysis to get your panties in a twist over the standard controller switch. After you have ridden with it for a day or two, you don't even notice it's there. And using it is effortless. In my case, it took about a week from ordering to it showing up on my doorstep. Manufacturer support has been excellent, and the installation instructions are easy to follow. Regarding the installation instructions, I've looked over them, and they appear to be the most informative instructions I have ever seen. When they claim "step-by-step", they literally mean it. Using their instructions, I'd bet a 10 year-old could do it...given enough time. As for the 1-week warehouse-to-doorstep, I'll know soon enough...ordered mine yesterday, it shipped this morning (Australia time), and I just received (as I was typing this post) a text from DHL that delivery is expected for May 29. That will be Philly 4 business days, from Australia to California...pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suncoaster Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Install it yourself. It was easy, following the comprehensive instructions, and it took a lot of time. Quite happy with mine, if it was in the Tenere switch, I may forget to use it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted May 25, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted May 25, 2018 I think you would have to be anal to the point of paralysis to get your panties in a twist over the standard controller switch. Or, ya know, there's personal preference... I personally dont like the look and size of their switch, additionally, I dont like the look of Oxford heated grip controller either. If I can get something that is properly integrated into the switch gear with an uncluttered, clean factory look, I am all for it. Depending on how you adjust your left switch gear and clutch lever/mirror angle, cant the switch possibly obstruct access to the display select switch? ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Received mine yesterday (ship-to-receive in 5 days, or 2 business days (since Monday was a holiday), depending on how one looks at it). Now I just need to schedule a day off from work to install it...decided to install it myself, instead of paying for installation. Will update once installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted May 30, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted May 30, 2018 Read through the install instructions thoroughly beforehand and make sure you have all the tools necessary. It should go smoothly, their instructions are excellent. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Talk about SIMPLE to install. Realistically, it took me approximately 4 hours, but I should mention that removing the spark plug connector, which should have only taken 1-2 minutes, took me over 20 minutes. Part of this I attribute to the installed Givi Engine Guard Bars (which I was NOT about to remove to do the MCCruise install, and then reinstall them), and part of it I attribute to my hands not getting the best angle. As such, if it hadn't been for this one minor "snafu", installation would have been in the 3.5-3.75 hour range...not bad for someone with no mechanical abilities (get me inside a computer, and I work wonders). Even though it was getting late, I also took care of the calibration process. Tomorrow, I'll take the bike out for an official cruise-control test ride. extra thanks to Tony & Frank Guymer - Tony for his informative emails (and one phone conversation), as well as the additional photos he emailed me (finding the "power/brake sensor connection" can be quite difficult), and to Frank for creating the best darn, most informative, instructions I have ever seen. With the manual he created, even a 10 year-old could do this install...NOT that I'd trust a 10 year-old to work on my bike. To anyone still considering whether, or not, to get an MCCruise cruise control for their FJ-09/Tracer, as well as to those try9ing to decide whether to install it themselves, or to pay someone to do it for them, let me tell you this - if I can install it, and do so in less than 4 hours, then you can install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 @Panther6834 would you mind sharing the additional pics/instructions you required for install to assist others that may require the same clarification '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Here ya go. The photos relate to the "power/brake sensor connection" (page 30 in the installation manual). It's very easy (as I found out, and as Tony told me many others have discovered) top confuse the "ABS sensor" with the "power/brake sensor connection", as both use the same 2-way connectors. The only difference between the connectors is that the "power/brake sensor connection" connector is white (as indicated in the install manual), and the "ABS" connector is gray. Upon initial inspection, the only connector you might notice is the gray (ABS), as it's fairly close to the top. Additionally, it's difficult (as in, almost impossible) to see any other 2-way connector of the same type. It's only when you look deep down inside that you finally notice the white (power/brake sensor connection) connector. On top of that, both ends of the white connector are covered in black rubber, thus making it more difficult to realize that's the 2-way connector you're looking for. The first photo shows how far down it is, while the second photo is a zoomed-in view. The third photo shows what it looks like once you've made the correct harness connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Thanks @panther6834... im sure someone who is planning on installing this kit might find this useful... *wink wink* '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Thanks @panther6834 ... im sure someone who is planning on installing this kit might find this useful. Something else that has been discovered (and I'm checking into a possible solution) is that 2017 model Yamaha motorcycles have a programming difference, compared to pre-2017 models, that (supposedly) requires dealerships, using Yamaha-specific diagnostics software, to clear Engine Check lights. According to what I've been told, while one can easily clear Engine Check lights on Yamaha models before 2017, 2017 (and later) models will require taking your bike to a dealership (or another shop, as long as they are using Yamaha's diagnostics software). The reason I'm mentioning this is because, in going through the configuration of the MCCruise cruise control, it can trigger an engine fault (especially, according to Tony, if you go through the configuration with the bike on the center stand), thus causing your Engine Check light (and, possibly, your ABS light) to be triggered. I'm ordering a CAN OBD2 code reader, as well as a Yamaha 4-pin to OBD2 diagnostic connector, and will give it a try...seeing if I'm able to clear the Engine Check light (which should also clear the ABS light problem). Will update once received & tested. Again, this ONLY affects Yamaha's 2017 & later models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted June 6, 2018 Share Posted June 6, 2018 One additional "discovery", but only because it's not covered in the manual. During the "throttle position sensor calibration and testing" (pages 41-44 in "Installation Manual"),there are two steps missing. After TPS calibration & testing, you must 'save' the settings, which is the final step before turning off the engine. After you complete the idle speed setting, followed by testing the engine's ability to increase & decrease RPMs via pressing the "SET" & "RES" buttons, you 'save' the settings by one final press & release of the "ON/OFF" button (which changes the LED from red to green when pressing the button, followed by back to red upon releasing the button), followed by squeezing the front brake lever one final time. Once these final two steps are complete, you can turn off the engine. I don't know if it makes any difference, but the video Tony sent me shows turning the engine off NOT by pressing the red "Engine Off" button, but by turning the key to the position. Following the instructions in the manual (twice), the calibration information, evidently, was never saved. The first two calibration attempts resulted (on the freeway, no less) in the engine immediately drop[ping to idle speed the moment I pressed the "SET" button. No amount of throttle twisting, squeezing the clutch lever, or activating the brakes did anything. I couldn't even turn the cruise control off. Even worse, stopping the engine, and restarting it also had no effect. The ONLY thing that reset the engine was to turn the key to the position, then back to the position. Unfortunately, the moment I attempted to set the cruise control, the same thing happened. Even after going through the calibration a second time, the same results occurred. It was only after watching the video that Tony told me to watch (the link, which was recently updated, is on the product webpage), that I noticed the above-mentioned two additional steps...and, after that, problem solved, and cruise control 100% operational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 Yea, I know, this is my third post in a row, but I promise the information is quite useful. For anyone who has installed, or is considering installing, the MCCruise cruise control on their 2017 Yamaha (and, for all I know, pre-2017 bikes), as most of you might be aware, it triggers the 'Check Engine' light. With pre-2017 bikes, clearing the 'Check Engine' light was a simple process...but, according to information posted by other people, Yamaha supposedly "tightened down" the ECM, so that the only way to clear a 'Check Engine' light was to take it to a dealership. According to these postings by other individuals, only through the use of Yamaha's official diagnostics software could the 'Check Engine' light be cleared. I'm here to tell you this is NOT true. I can confirm that a CAN OBD2 scanner/reader, with a properly-wired 4-pin to OBD2 adapter cable, WILL read AND clear codes on US 2017 Yamaha bikes. As I mentioned two postings ago, after installing the MCCruise cruise control, it triggered the "Check Engine" light. After reading the (false) info about having to take the bike to a dealership to get the 'Check Engine' light cleared, I called the dealership where I purchased the bike, only to be told there was a 2-week wait for service (in the past, I've noticed their service dept can fluctuate from "walk-in" to "3-weeks"). Not wanting to wait, and going on some info from a couple of people who said the 'Check Engine' light can be cleared on 2017 & later bikes, I purchased an Autel Tech AutoLink AL319 ($25-45), and obtained a Yamaha 4-pin to OBD2 adapter cable (you can purchase on from Amazon, eBay, etc) for $20-30US, or make your own), and decided to give it a shot..... .....and it worked. It cleared the 'Check Engine' light without any problems. The 'Check Engine' light is off, and I'm now less worried. However, that being said, before anyone else tries this, I will suggest doing two things. First, download/install Autel's MaxiLink2 software (or the firmware/code update software for whatever brand scanner you buy). Second, update the firmware (*.bin file, in the case of the AL319), as well as install the latest codes (*.aut file, again, in the case of the AL319). All of this can be downloaded from your scanner manufacturer's website. All-in-all, the $45-75 you'll spend will be well worth it. Why, over your vehicle's lifetime, should you spend hundreds of $$$ on taking your bike/car/truck to a shop, when you can save yourself $$$, not to mention the wasted time of numerous trips to your motorcycle/auto dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsmiller Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 Can someone please confirm if the MC Cruise unit will work if my ECU has been flashed by 2 Wheel Dyno Works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g8r Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 I can confirm that the McCruise will work with the flash by 2WDW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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