Probably need a new battery but...

[joeszup]

...but I'm terrible with electricity/power issues.  The main question is this; I start my bike every day, ride to work, ride home, no issues.  I leave it for four days, and it won't start, get the "clicky" noise.  I'm thinking a new battery is the solution.  Yes?

[joeszup]

1) 12.1V when the bike is off. Running it's 13.7v, which sounds about right.
2) Only electrical mod is a Gorilla Alarm. I can see that as a drain, but shouldn't drain the battery in four days.
3) Picking one up today.
 
Thanks.

[bobaintstoppin]

Alarm systems are a very common problem for batteries. Never had one myself, but read many threads with dead batteries from alarms.
 

[wessie]

Alarm systems are a very common problem for batteries. Never had one myself, but read many threads with dead batteries from alarms.

I would bin the alarm - a Datatool alarm on my 1994 VFR750 put me off them for life. 
Fortunately, in Europe, passive immobilisers with an RFID chip in the key have been mandatory on all new vehicles for many years so alarms are not so common nowadays. Insurers are more likely to insist on an immobiliser and maybe a Tracker if you live in a high risk postcode. Nobody takes any notice of alarms. 

[joeszup]

Alarm systems are a very common problem for batteries. Never had one myself, but read many threads with dead batteries from alarms.

I would bin the alarm - a Datatool alarm on my 1994 VFR750 put me off them for life. 
Fortunately, in Europe, passive immobilisers with an RFID chip in the key have been mandatory on all new vehicles for many years so alarms are not so common nowadays. Insurers are more likely to insist on an immobiliser and maybe a Tracker if you live in a high risk postcode. Nobody takes any notice of alarms. 

Unfortunately, this isn't standard in the U.S. on any motorcycles.  Also, I do get a discount on my insurance for the alarm, and although people will not "take notice", it gives me peace of mind.  I have the same alarm on my Katana but never noticed this because it on a tender all the time because I only ride it once a week now that I have the FJ.  Guess it's time to buy a tender for the FJ for those long weekends where I don't ride.

[bobaintstoppin]

Actually, All BMWs have the coded keys.  Also Ducati (I think).  Don't know how many others have it. 
Edit.  Looks like I screwed up the quoting where joezup indicated that no US bikes have coded keys.  Oops!

[joeszup]

Actually, All BMWs have the coded keys.  Also Ducati (I think).  Don't know how many others have it. 
Edit.  Looks like I screwed up the quoting where joezup indicated that no US bikes have coded keys.  Oops!

Heh... ok, bike's in my price range.  

[martyl]

Another good thing to check is simple. Check the negative terminal and positive terminal on your battery. A loose terminal will cause the same condition.

[skipperT]

1) 12.1V when the bike is off. Running it's 13.7v, which sounds about right. 2) Only electrical mod is a Gorilla Alarm. I can see that as a drain, but shouldn't drain the battery in four days.
3) Picking one up today.
 
Thanks.

 
Hopefully you got this figured out, but FYI-
 
12.1v is VERY discharged for these batteries, and is why you are having starting problems. All MF batteries should be 12.5-13.0 when fully charged.
 
An alarm can drain a battery overnight, it depends on how many amps it's pulling with the key off. Plus with a weak battery, it will drain it down that much faster.
 
To check key-off parasitic draw, switch your meter leads to the 10a position, disconnect the neg battery terminal and connect your VOM in series between the neg terminal and the ground cable you just removed.
 
Start with the VOM in the 10a position in case there is a large draw. You probably won't get much of a reading in this position.
 
Switch the VOM to mA position, and reconnect your test leads. You will usually see a draw of 0.2-0.5 A. Most manufacturers say anything less than 1 A is acceptable.
 
Note that these 2 settings on a VOM are fused for protection. My Fluke allows you to check the fuse by simply touching a connected meter lead to one of the receptacles on the VOM, yours may be different. Also some meters need to be told to measure D.C. Amps vs AC amps.
 
-Skip
 
 

[wessie]

1) 12.1V when the bike is off. Running it's 13.7v, which sounds about right. 2) Only electrical mod is a Gorilla Alarm. I can see that as a drain, but shouldn't drain the battery in four days.
3) Picking one up today.
 
Thanks.

Hopefully you got this figured out, but FYI- 
12.1v is VERY discharged for these batteries, and is why you are having starting problems. All MF batteries should be 12.5-13.0 when fully charged.
 
An alarm can drain a battery overnight, it depends on how many amps it's pulling with the key off. Plus with a weak battery, it will drain it down that much faster.
 
To check key-off parasitic draw, switch your meter leads to the 10a position, disconnect the neg battery terminal and connect your VOM in series between the neg terminal and the ground cable you just removed.
 
Start with the VOM in the 10a position in case there is a large draw. You probably won't get much of a reading in this position.
 
Switch the VOM to mA position, and reconnect your test leads. You will usually see a draw of 0.2-0.5 A. Most manufacturers say anything less than 1 A is acceptable.
 
Note that these 2 settings on a VOM are fused for protection. My Fluke allows you to check the fuse by simply touching a connected meter lead to one of the receptacles on the VOM, yours may be different. Also some meters need to be told to measure D.C. Amps vs AC amps.
 
-Skip
 

 
I get 12.1V on my Tracer, 12.3V on my BMW - measuring at the accessory socket on both bikes. Of course, this is with the ignition turned on so a number of components are drawing current. This was using a plug in voltmeter that costs about £2 on Ebay.
 
Joe does not say if he is measuring at the battery or accessory socket; or whether he is using an Ebay special or calibrated Avo...
 
 

[owt4nowt]

...but I'm terrible with electricity/power issues.  The main question is this; I start my bike every day, ride to work, ride home, no issues.  I leave it for four days, and it won't start, get the "clicky" noise.  I'm thinking a new battery is the solution.  Yes?

any body know what the part number is on the akrapovic titanium exhaust system that will fit my fj-09 tracer without removing the center stand thanks

[skipperT]

Hopefully you got this figured out, but FYI- 
12.1v is VERY discharged for these batteries, and is why you are having starting problems. All MF batteries should be 12.5-13.0 when fully charged.
 
An alarm can drain a battery overnight, it depends on how many amps it's pulling with the key off. Plus with a weak battery, it will drain it down that much faster.
 
To check key-off parasitic draw, switch your meter leads to the 10a position, disconnect the neg battery terminal and connect your VOM in series between the neg terminal and the ground cable you just removed.
 
Start with the VOM in the 10a position in case there is a large draw. You probably won't get much of a reading in this position.
 
Switch the VOM to mA position, and reconnect your test leads. You will usually see a draw of 0.2-0.5 A. Most manufacturers say anything less than 1 A is acceptable.
 
Note that these 2 settings on a VOM are fused for protection. My Fluke allows you to check the fuse by simply touching a connected meter lead to one of the receptacles on the VOM, yours may be different. Also some meters need to be told to measure D.C. Amps vs AC amps.
 
-Skip
 

I get 12.1V on my Tracer, 12.3V on my BMW - measuring at the accessory socket on both bikes. Of course, this is with the ignition turned on so a number of components are drawing current. This was using a plug in voltmeter that costs about £2 on Ebay. 
Joe does not say if he is measuring at the battery or accessory socket; or whether he is using an Ebay special or calibrated Avo...
 

 
12.1-12.4 or so with the ignition on is healthy - esp measured at an accessory socket. Measuring at the battery terminals is more common.
 
If you were to say, measure key on power at the headlight connector, I wouldn't be surprised if it's 11.9-12.1 because of the voltage drop through the circuit.
 
-Skip

[Guest autobiker]

Did you do the starting load test? I find it quite a good tell-tale test for the condition of AGM batteries. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals when you fire up the bike. If it drops below 9.5V, the battery isn't holding much charge and it's time to change it.
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30
 
My 15-month old OEM Yuasa battery measured 12.3V with the ignition off, 12.2V with the ignition on, and 14.2V with the bike running. Increasing the engine rpms didn't do much. Voltage didn't dip below 10.3V when cranking, even after a few times. I don't have any electrical accessories on my bike, though.

[joeszup]

Sorry for the delay in posting. It's a two part issue. My Gorilla alarm draws WAY too much power when just sitting. I've put a good battery tender on it, with a pigtail, so I can quick connect/disconnect it. Second is that the battery is indeed on it's last legs. Should have known that the dealer would not have put a new battery in my bike. I bought a 2015 in 2016. New battery is on the way. Thanks for everyone's suggestions/inputs.

[paladin]

After 17 months and 13000 miles I left key on for 10 minutes, by mistake, while running into store. When I came back bike would not start. I carry a compact jump box. It took several tries and several minutes to get bike to start. I bought a Cycle Gear replacement. Bike starts first time every time now even at 40 deg F. I had had several times with hard starts. Since I live on a boat I can not keep it on a battery maintainer without removing battery.