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Replacement Front Brake Master Cylinder & Pads


2and3cylinders

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If you haven’t done so already, you could use some rubber bands or twine to apply the front brake while sitting in the garage between rides. I use this from time to time with my dirt bike when it starts to feel mushy. Generally it works to bring back the desired feel to the lever.

I flushed and bled the brakes not long after purchase because I was having a weird the pull lever and it goes to bar, release and pull once or even twice again and it reverts to form event occasionally. But there was/is no mushiness or softness other than before I bled as noted above. 
I zip tie or inner tube band the lever for a few hours or overnight as well, and have done so since hydraulic disc brakes made an appearance on motorcycles.  I also have used a BrakeFix that can similarly be used preclude forward motion of a motorbike in conjunction with a bungee cord to hold forward the side stand when elevating the year wheel (of centerstandless bikes) with a PackJack.
 
https://www.acebikes.com/en/transport-service/brakefix/
 
$20 in the US, so a less expensive if also much less eloquent option is:
 
http://www.dx.com/p/motorcycle-bicycle-parking-brake-accessories-red-442663#.WDzkC9UrKpo
 
The authentic PackJack is by far the best of its kind (the newest version that I have works on both axle bolt heads/nuts and on swing arm spools (bobbins):
 
http://www.aerostich.com/packjack.html
 
 
 
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  • 4 months later...
I was just looking at my KTM 950 SM the other night. It has KTM handguards and a Brembo radial MC. There were no clearance issues.  I have a Nissin radial MC left over from a Triumph Sprint that I will do a test fit to see what if any clearance issues exist.. 

Cool, let us know.  I have the KTM Adventure hand guards recommended in the below and I believe another forum thread  
http://fj-09.org/thread/1646/fitted-any-alternative-hand-guards
 
I measured the radial MC from a R6 recommended and extensively used by FZ-09 forum members but it seemed it projected too far forward to fit?
 
I believe the FJ-09 linear MC is 16 mm and thought about trying the 14 mm MC off my VTR.
 
I'm going to contact Rob at Stoltec Moto who is heavy into and sells on the FZ-09 forum and sells a MC  reservoir kit for the R6 conversion (see below but not necessarily page  11 which just how far I've gotten reading the thread)
 
http://www.somefz09forum/forum/10-fz-09-builds/412-stoltec-project-bike-gonna-long-thread-11.html
 
 
 
 
 
 

I installed the Nissan radial master cylinder tonight.  Good news, bad news.  The MC fit fine with the KTM handguards, but the brake line is about 1" too short.  I didn't even bother looking to reroute the brake line to see of I could get some more slack. Eventually, I plan to get some braided lines, and when I do, I will probably order the one line a little longer. 
 
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There have been a few folks with FZ09's that have "Upgraded" to MC's from R6 or R1's. They are radial, have larger pistons, so more feel with less effort as a design.
I have a master cylinder from an R1 on mine, I previously used it on my FZ1.  In addition to much better braking feel and the ability to always use 1 finger braking, the master cylinder has its own bleed port.  Air bubbles rise and the master cylinder is the highest point in the system, brake bleeding is a cinch! 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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https://fj-09.org/thread/3632/replacement-brake-lines-braided-stainless
 
Have you seen Galfer now offers kit for stainless brake lines.
 
Your first post indicated bad master cylinder, which should have been replaced by dealer under warranty. I never owned a sport bike, but I raced dirt bikes and last street bike was a Harley.  I fouind stock FJ 09 brakes so sensitive that it took me a few thousand miles to get used to them, and may install stainless brake lines, but I doubt I will do anything else.
 
If you want more braking, there are lots of ways to go, what did you end up doing?
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While brake "feel" is a highly subjective thing, my preferences align with 2and3C.  I set the brake lever as close to the bars as possible to get my little baby hands in the sweet spot for grip strength to maximize my ability to apply and modulate force.  When I was younger I thought that a super firm, low travel lever was the hallmark of good brakes.  Now I favor a less wooden feel with more travel.  I find the FJ's brakes only adequate. They're better than some bikes I've had, but fall short compared to my previous bike.
 
My brother has been investigating different combinations of front brake components on a vintage bike to try and bring it up to snuff.  His experience has been that manipulating m/c to caliper piston area ratios has netted far more dramatic improvements over pad composition and SS lines.  He has had various combinations of factory m/c, smaller m/c and swapping the original single pot, single caliper for a 2-piston unit.  The latter, of course, further improves hydraulic advantage in addition to increased friction area, at the cost of further increased lever travel.  His line of thinking is that he'd rather have the caliper give him more, with less effort at the lever.  The fact that it occurs closer to the bar doesn't concern him and increased lever travel affords more fine control.   It's a balancing act between feel, power and enough fluid volume movement to keep lever travel to a point that you're comfortable with.  It has been interesting to see how even modest changes in hydraulic ratios can have a significant impact on brake performance (as subjectively perceived by the operator).  This does not take into account the debate over axial vs radial master cylinders, pivot lengths and other factors affecting mechanical advantage.  
 
2and3c - please continue to keep us posted on your progress.
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While brake "feel" is a highly subjective thing, my preferences align with 2and3C.  I set the brake lever as close to the bars as possible to get my little baby hands in the sweet spot for grip strength to maximize my ability to apply and modulate force.  When I was younger I thought that a super firm, low travel lever was the hallmark of good brakes.  Now I favor a less wooden feel with more travel.
Highly Subjective, indeed!  I could never ride with that much lever travel, street or dirt, I only use one finger for braking.  I prefer a very firm lever feel and having the lever travel near the grip would pinch my other fingers.  Oddly enough its completely different for street and dirt, when dirt riding I only use my index finger and street I use my middle finger.
To each his own, gotta love options.
 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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I've always thought the FJ 09 brakes were fine, but when you compare them to other bikes, I want more. With the radial MC sitting on my bench waiting for bike, and my FJ 09 brake lines too short, I bit the bullet and ordered Galfer braided lines with the line to the MC 2" longer.
 
Galfer lines in OEM lengths are offered on Rocky Mtn ATV site for $148.
 
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/980/67995/Galfer-Stainless-Steel-Front-and-Rear-Brake-Line-Kit?PID=6160227&ref=cj
 
I thought this was a good deal because their website has them listed for $164. I contacted Galfer about adding 2" and the price is $7 per line custom ordered. Plus I get a choice of color.
 
Between shipping and installation, it will be a few weeks before I have them installed, but I will post an update when I'm done.
 
This experiment is getting expensive. Last night, after discovering the OEM lines will not work with my radial MC, I broke my Mity Vac brake bleeder, bleeding the lines after re-installing the OEM MC. WTF, 20+ years and the handle broke on my Mity Vac :)
 
With all the modifications I've done to my FJ, I think this is a sign I have too much time on my hands. I need to ride more and worry less.
 
 
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Between shipping and installation, it will be a few weeks before I have them installed, but I will post an update when I'm done.
I am very curious about the actual procedure of changing the lines and will watch here for your updates and recommendations.    What I am mainly curious about is, the factory flex lines go into a block and become a hard line, does the entire factory system come off and get discarded or is there a way to plug the flex portion into the block?  The replacement lines look like they are banjo fittings on each end. 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Don't buy a Chinese clone of a Brembo 19 RCS MC! The effort to fix it is NOT worth it! It is like they had a photo to work from rather than one in hand. So while I think I can get it to work and it actually was a bit fun correcting all the goofs they made, I'm not sure I want to risk my like on it staying together, and it certainly was not worth my time compared to buying the real deal!
 
 
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  • 1 year later...
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Well, it's been a while...

 

Status:

Installed lower bars with more sweep.  Vesrah RJL HH+ pads with Spiegler hoses (nice) along with a new Brembo radial MC off a 2014 R1.

Finished revalving the forks (rebound & compression both legs with left adjustable for comp) along with new seals and bushings20181218_203409.thumb.jpg.468c861a0a937d7018b5e3146909bcb6.jpg.  Also swapped to 2015 R1 320 mm rotors using Matt's spacers and bolts (should maybe removed a bit of the powder coating off the mating surfaces), along with fresh RJL-CT pads.  So now the MC is matched to the rotors.  Managed a 110 mile shake down run last Saturday when it creeped up to 48 with sun (normal high is like 31).  The shake down run was very positive.  The fork damping IS different and the .95 springs are really a lot stiffer.  Set sag at about 40 mm.  The brakes are finally up to where I want them and won't get much better without a significant additional outlay beyond the $470 including pads, MC, rotors , spacers and bolts.

20181228_204918.thumb.jpg.8b8b5150791acb912837a87b5d48722c.jpgNext up is a K-Tech Razor R shock (drool).

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