FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer/FZ-09 Steering Nut and Bearing Torquing

[nsmiller]

My first experiment with a 3D printed socket resulted in some good and some bad news.
 
First, I need to say that I printed it using the Makerbot default settings of 10% plastic fill. This first iteration was primarily done to verify the dimensions would come out correct - and they did. The socket fits nicely onto the nut just like the metal version. The 1/2 drive hole needs to be widened up just a smidge, I had to force the 1/2 extension into the slot- which pre-stressed the plastic.
 
The bad news is that the socket in its current state couldn't take the torque. It cracked right away near the 1/2 drive insertion point radially outward to the edge. The 6 teeth are actually all quite strong. By their nature being small they have a higher amount of plastic density in those regions.
 
The next step will be to refine the dimensions slightly, primarily with the 1/2 drive insertion hole, and increase the plastic fill percentage up significantly. Then the true test of whether or not the plastic can support the load will come.
 

 

 

 

[nsmiller]

 How did you find it when you did it?

It cracked loosening the nut on my FJR (which had never been done until tonight). Although I didn't find the torque on either the FJR or the FJ09 to be higher than 38 ft*lbs initial bearing seating torque. More than the final 13 ft*lbs it should be at, perhaps, but not a crazy 50-60 ft*lbs high.

[nsmiller]

Additional detail, the initial 10% fill socket weighed 23 grams, so the cost was $1.15. I imagine if I do 100% plastic it will probably cost $4 or $5 in plastic. Also the print time will dramatically increase. Even if it doesn't work, its still a fun experiment to find the limitations of 3D printed PLA plastic when it comes to making tools.

[2and3cylinders]

Anyone gone as far as check and re-pack the bearings/raceways? I am due according to the manual... and while I wanted to re-torque the head nut anyway, I thought I'd take a look.

So, are you going to offer a solid plastic socket to forum folks for sale? 
I need to adjust mine as part of my winter maintenance schedule and do not relish spending $43+ for a tool I'll use infrequently despite what the prescribed adjustment interval is (which IMO is kind of ridiculous unless you experience a possible related issue).
 
I wonder if the bending tab plate locking washer can be reused more than twice.
 
Also, has anyone considered when the OEM steering stem captured ball bearings and races need replacement going with tapered roller bearing?
 
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/546a26cdf87002164cb28028/steering
 
 https://www.allballsracing.com/ymmsearch/index/searchfromhome/
 
 

[betoney]

Also, has anyone considered when the OEM steering stem captured ball bearings and races need replacement going with tapered roller bearing? 

I did exactly that on my 2006 FZ1.  Even though the mechanic said the original ball bearings and races still looked and felt good, they were 10 years old, so while he had everything torn apart I had them changed to roller bearings.  Maybe it was just me imagining things, but the front end sure seemed to feel smoother after changing to roller bearings.
 

[nsmiller]

So, are you going to offer a solid plastic socket to forum folks for sale? ...

It was @nsmiller who suggested a possibility of a 3D printed tool. His first prototype didn't hold up, and it doesn't look like he pursued further.

My first print was with 10% fill PLA plastic from a makerbot I had access to during grad school. I got too buys with classes to try to print a 100% fill PLA version, but I don't think it would hold up well enough for me to feel right about selling it for $ to anyone.  
If someone had a better type of 3D printer, there are definitely plastics out there that would be strong enough. Glass filled nylon perhaps? I have access to 3D printers like that at work.... but for work purposes only. 
 
If anyone wants to experiment further I'll send them the Solidworks file for free.

[2and3cylinders]

When I worked many moons ago at Convair, we took advantage of the equipment, tools and material throughout the plants for "government jobs". If anyone asked us what we were working on, the standard response given the highly sensitive and security work we did was "Do you have a need to know". The trick was getting out of the plant when we were done.

[nsmiller]

When I worked many moons ago at Convair, we took advantage of the equipment, tools and material throughout the plants for "government jobs". If anyone asked us what we were working on, the standard response given the highly sensitive and security work we did was "Do you have a need to know". The trick was getting out of the plant when we were done.

I'm in a similar line of work... but I've seen too many people get fired at my plant for doing that kind of stuff. Not worth the risk in today's day and age.

[piotrek]

I am going to tack onto this thread (topical I think) with some notes and photos from my steering head bearing inspection (25K kms). In short, all was good... bearings, races and grease looked (and felt) new. The bearing nut let go very easily, so it was not over-torqued as some others have experienced. The top nut (holding the upper tree) was on there pretty good though. The bearing balls are in poly-something cages. Grease was very tacky (thick and stretchy-like), more so than your average wheel bearing grease. All will go back the way it came out, with fresh grease.
 
Secured the bar and upper tree assembly with a big-ass zip-tie, right over the dash display cage:
 

 
Before removing the bearing nut(s) secured the lower tree with bungee cords:
 

 
All the loose bearing bits on the bench... and in order of assembly:
 
 

 

 
Lower and upper races (in steering head):
 

 
 

 

[betoney]

I am going to tack onto this thread (topical I think) with some notes and photos from my steering head bearing inspection. 

Thanks for the write up and photos.  Its reassuring to know that all was good when you tore it down. 

[betoney]

Not sure how the roller bearing option would work btw... the races are pretty shallow in there, but maybe. Where did you see that this might be possible... on here somewhere?

To convert to tapered roller bearings you would need to replace the races in the steering stem.  The kit should come with bearings and races and in some cases, depending on bike, seals as well. 
I had them installed on my previous FZ1.  To replace the races correctly, you need some specific tools.
 

[redfjniner]

To convert to tapered roller bearings you would need to replace the races in the steering stem.  The kit should come with bearings and races and in some cases, depending on bike, seals as well. 
I had them installed on my previous FZ1.  To replace the races correctly, you need some specific tools.

Yeah, I understand the races need to be replaced... looks like that woul be a bit of a job. I will re-evaluate in 2 years. 

If you replace the bearings, round or roller, you will need to replace the races.  Usually it is the races that cause the problems not the balls or rollers.  Rust is always a problem, so cover your bike. 
 

[2and3cylinders]

Pio,
 
How many miles, you only said 2 years?
 
I presume you are not in the habit of popping wheelies that would hammer the races and cause notchiness?

[redfjniner]

Just a note here regarding checking and replacing the steering head bearings. First, it is hard for me to think that anyone on the forum has had any problems, outside of that one off that didn't get any that was mfr. wrong. The rest of us can usually check the head bearing by raising the front wheel off the pavement and move the handle bars right and left to feel if there is any resistance, other then desired resistance. If it is notchy going back and forth or you actually feel a clunk, wiggle up and down when you go over a driveway 1" edge, then you either need to replace the bearings and seats, or tighten the stem nuts.
 
Regarding the stem nuts. I maybe wrong on this, but they should have been set properly at the factory, dealer and if not, every owner should either have them checked or check it them self. Once you know the seats are set to the correct spec, you should be able to just check the torque to 13#ft, or 13 ftlbs. I mean, how are the seats going to move after being set correctly? Have you ever removed seats? They don't move easy.
 
Now, I park my bikes in the garage so they don't get rained on all the time, they are in a dry area. Rust isn't usually a problem. Swing arms bearings tend to get rusty and need to be greased every 6-10K, but head bearings as far as I can tell, can go for 75K without being greased. You all know that the steering movement is very short, as compared to wheel bearings and wearing out of the grease shouldn't be a problems. Now if it takes you 10 years to go 30K, you might want to add the check and lube just due to time. I feel a minor wiggle/notch when I go over pavement edges, so I going to check the steering head torque now at 52K.
 
Other words, it all depends on how much and how abusive you are to your bike. Lubing your head bearings with only 7,500 miles on the bike is excessive, but if you have the time and like doing this kind of work, go for it if it makes you happy. I have run into many that over maintain their bikes. And I have run into some that do no maintenance, but buy new bikes every 3-5 years with the old ones only getting to 50-60K miles.
 
 

[redfjniner]

I'm going to note here that Yamaha has a history of not greasing areas that they can skimp on, like the axles. And are often found with corrosion by the time the tires need replacing. When doing the steering head, you might want to remove the nuts and the washer that they torque against. This washer is to be set in a bed of grease and if Yamaha skimped on the grease, moisture may leak into the bearing and over time the bearings may rust. Same reason you grease the rubber seals on the wheels. Use a waterproof grease.