Premium Member jeff400650 Posted April 21, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted April 21, 2017 Smooths that initial hit, but no loss of acceleration. A win/win. Why don't the bikes come like this? Pistons or pedals, 2 wheels are where it's at... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Adjusted my aps today and it mad a big improvement! Still have a slight jerk when on and off the throttle but it's more than likely my chain. I'm close to time for the first adjustment. If I still have the slight jerk after doing it i may go down another number or two. Original settings Diag 14 Closed 17 open 101 Diag 15 Closed 16 open 101 New settings Diag 14 Closed 14 open 97 Diag 15 Closed 13 open 97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hdgunnell Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Where is this APS? You said you just needed to lift the tank, so do you not need to take the air box off? I don't have a service manual yet so I can't see where it's at exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted May 4, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted May 4, 2017 You will need to make something similar or rig up something else that will fit in that tight space. A Micro Driver is perfect for reaching in there. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted May 5, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted May 5, 2017 When I checked and just out of anal retentiveness slightly tweaked the TB sync, changed the plugs to Iridium NGK of the same reach and heat range, I considered playing with the APS before I said "naw", installed the air box and slid in the ECU flashed by Vcyclenut. I'm glad I left the APS alone because even with the Standard mode "smooth throttle" and A Mode "quick throttle" setting I feel they are both too smooth and slow reving. Dave said he has them set about as quick as they can be up to 30% throttle but said when I get around to sending the ECU back, he'll see what he can do to liven things up. I guess I'm jaded by my VTR, which I'm quickening the pick up with a lighter flywheel. Nothing like a relatively fast reving torquey big carbed twin to sneakily shoot you down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 What Iridium NGK spark plug did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted May 6, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted May 6, 2017 https://fj-09.org/thread/2517/ngk-iridium-spark-plugs Some run NGK CR9EIA-9 (6289) but I installed NGK CR9EIX (3521) and have not been able to notice any difference and really shouldn't as they should just last longer. The stock copper electrode plugs looked great both in terms of wear and color at 10,000 miles though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheridan Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Strange but I got the same 14/97 on both 14 and 15 diags. Anyway bike runs much more comfortable. Thank you, @piotrek! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Henchman Posted September 1, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted September 1, 2017 Last night after reading through this thread and the wonderful instructions a few times (thx @piotrek ) it was time to see what all the hubbub was about. I began by consulting my service manual to identify the exact part and location. Then removed all necessary bodywork and propped up tank with 2x4 wood block (3-1/2" actual lift). I see 2 disconnected emissions hoses, no worries, stickers under tank show where things belong. I see the APS, but there is a rollover valve in the way - more CA ONLY emission stuff - so I removed the push rivet holding it and moved it out of the way. My small ratchet and 8mm socket work good enough to loosen the bolts slightly, one small move CCW and check numbers: DIAG 14: was 17/101, now 13/98 DIAG 15: was 16/100, now 13/96 Tightened things up, checked numbers again, all is good. This morning I emptied most of a tank of gas riding to breakfast then out to and along the coast. STD mode seemed a bit smoother, low speed drive-ability was much improved, my gear changing was smoother, take offs were smoother, and for the first time I actually enjoyed some A mode riding because it smoothed it out just enough that I could! All-in-all, I would say this was probably one of the best enhancements I've done so far, especially considering the price! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted December 6, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 6, 2017 I think I left it at 12-97 in diag 14, and 11-96 in diag 15. I heard servos and buzzing as I cycled through the other diagnostic parameters, but none while in 14 or 15. You must have a service manual, because I found nothing about this stuff in the owners manual. ...next time you do this, twist the APS CCW to near mechanical limit while in Diag14/15... you should hear something click pretty loud (I do, each time I tried). I think it's good to know where that point is to stay clear from it.I found that the click occurred when both bolts were not sufficiently loosened. It seemed that instead of rotating on center, it was pivoting on one bolt and swiveling on the other. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agunslinger Posted February 9, 2018 Share Posted February 9, 2018 Dumb question but its just not clear to me. The instructions state: 6. When done with "DIAG 14", toggle the "TCS" button and go to "DIAG 15". 7. To leave the diagnostic mode, turn ignition to OFF. Are all of these adjustments done with the ignition ON and IN Diagnostic mode and display on? Or are you turning ignition OFF, making adjustment, turn igniton back on, back to dx modes, check numbers, rinse repeat util where you ant them. Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 9, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted February 9, 2018 Dumb question but its just not clear to me. The instructions state: 6. When done with "DIAG 14", toggle the "TCS" button and go to "DIAG 15". 7. To leave the diagnostic mode, turn ignition to OFF. Are all of these adjustments done with the ignition ON and IN Diagnostic mode and display on? Or are you turning ignition OFF, making adjustment, turn igniton back on, back to dx modes, check numbers, rinse repeat util where you ant them. Thx When you are adjusting the APS, you are looking at the display to see the values change, this can only be done with the ignition "on". Factory settings are usually around 17, I initially lowered mine to 14 and then a few weeks later lowered it again to 12. Loosen the screws on the APS and make slight adjustment, maybe 2mm at a time, you will see the values change on the display. When you get the value to where you want, then snug the screws down. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabefzr6 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 So, I finally got around to trying this free mod. Settings were as follows: Stock New Diag. 14 17 101 13 97 Diag. 15 16 100 12 96 Unfortunately, I can detect little or no difference in off to on throttle transitions. I have a 2015 with stock exhaust and the 2WD flash. I am glad that I tried it because it was easy and free. The hardest part is the bodywork, which isn't difficult. just adding my results to the data set. Thanks to those who shared the info on this. 2008 Street Triple G 2015 FJ-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitsubisci Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Wanted to chime in with my results: Stock: Diag 14: 17 102 Diag 15: 19 104 New Diag 14: 13 97 Diag 15: 12 96 Made a world of difference, like a whole new bike for me. Thanks for the great write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 14, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted February 14, 2018 So, I finally got around to trying this free mod. Settings were as follows: Stock New Diag. 14 17 101 13 97 Diag. 15 16 100 12 96 Unfortunately, I can detect little or no difference in off to on throttle transitions. I have a 2015 with stock exhaust and the 2WD flash. I am glad that I tried it because it was easy and free. The hardest part is the bodywork, which isn't difficult. just adding my results to the data set. Thanks to those who shared the info on this. I am really surprised that you didn’t notice any difference. When I changed mine from 17 to 14 it was immediately noticeable, and then later dropping it from 14 to 12 had the same result, very much smoother on/off throttling. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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