Premium Member fr8dog Posted September 10, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted September 10, 2018 Adjusted mine yesterday. Ended up with 13/97 and 12/97. Huge difference. Stock STD was really snatchy at low end and coming out of corners. "A" mode was unrideable. Now STD is smooth and A is rideable and fun. Should have did this a year ago. Looking at Piotreks picture it looks like the two bolts are side by side. Mine were on top and bottom. Maybe the angle of the picture or changed from 15 to 16. Thanks @Piotrek for the write up. I have a service manual, but pics and real life experience helps. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Am I the only one that doesn't have a snatchy throttle on his FJ? I could hardly ride my FZ-09, it had a snatchy throttle, on off in the corners wanted to send you into on coming traffic. Nada on my FJ. Never been a problem. I'm temped to do this procedure to just check out the numbers and to see if any changes take place, even though there is no need to do so. 1 Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raggededge Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 Just did this. Haven’t gotten a chance to ride it yet. Values went from #14 -17 closed, 101 open, #15 -18 closed and 101 open. New values #14 -13, 97 & #15 -14, 97 The bolts required a little more loosening than I thought they would before it would move. Also my small gear wrench bit set was the perfect size for the job. Finally, I used a bar clamp in spread to hold the tank up. Worked great. I’ll include some picture. https://imgur.com/a/ouXkHhW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodb47 Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 I'm updating this thread for the sake of science. I have a 2017. I'm experiencing snatchy throttle after my ECU flash. It's driving me nuts. I bought an ODB II patch cable for the bike so I could hook up my ODB II dongle. Since I couldn't go into the diagnostic mode on the bike, I checked the throttle position indications on my app. They matched what people had set their FJs to in this thread and I noticed that the white line on the APS was straight across. So in my opinion, the 2017s were set at the lower numbers at the factory and that's why the diagnostic modes were removed. (Totally uneducated guess). I decided to adjust it anyway. The two throttle positions were 14% and 13% as shown in the pic. I put the closed throttle at 10%. No good. Snatchiness went away but the idle shot up to 2500 rpm and the exhaust started to glow red. Oops. Adjusted to 12%. Idle was better but still a little high. Set both at 13%. Back to the original setting. Runs great. Snatchiness is still there but I think it may be the flash. Got it done by Vcyclenut. So there you have it. 2017s do not seem to have any adjustment left to mess with. Below are the pics of my setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 24, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted February 24, 2020 44 minutes ago, rodb47 said: I'm updating this thread for the sake of science. I have a 2017. I'm experiencing snatchy throttle after my ECU flash. It's driving me nuts. Snatchiness is still there but I think it may be the flash. Got it done by Vcyclenut. If you are having issues with the flash, call Dave and talk to him about it, he is usually very friendly and helpful. 4 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 I find alot of this throttle problems tend to be a mix of rider and electronics combined... I had to retrain my muscles to let off the throttle in 2 steps vs the ole cable systems from carburetors... Just back off the throttle a tiny amount to give you an indication the electronics are paying attention to you then you can let off the throttle even more... Just a idea/thought... 2 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 @rodb47 I agree with @betoney... Contact Dave and let him know what you are experiencing. I had him set mine up to start in A-mode with his "quick turn" throttle option which is the most aggressive throttle map and do not feel like mine is "snatchy" at all. 1 '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodb47 Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 9 hours ago, betoney said: If you are having issues with the flash, call Dave and talk to him about it, he is usually very friendly and helpful. I've already contacted him. I wanted to try this before sending the ECU back. He seems like a great guy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodb47 Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 10 hours ago, norcal616 said: I find alot of this throttle problems tend to be a mix of rider and electronics combined... I had to retrain my muscles to let off the throttle in 2 steps vs the ole cable systems from carburetors... Just back off the throttle a tiny amount to give you an indication the electronics are paying attention to you then you can let off the throttle even more... Just a idea/thought... I hear you. I've had the bike for two years. I've learned to live with this. It's very specific. Basically, after the initial slack is taken out of the throttle (I have it set to the minimum by the manual), there is no fuel until about an eighth of an inch of throttle. Then it hits. It hits harder then I like. I have test driven three other brand new FI motorcycles and none do this. I made a graph to show Dave so he'll understand what I'm talking about. Green is what I want. Red is what it's doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted February 24, 2020 Share Posted February 24, 2020 You brought up a good point for others... I took all the slack out of my throttle cable and that helped the on/off throttle abruptness as well. I see you've already addressed this as well. 1 '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 20 hours ago, rodb47 said: I hear you. I've had the bike for two years. I've learned to live with this. It's very specific. Basically, after the initial slack is taken out of the throttle (I have it set to the minimum by the manual), there is no fuel until about an eighth of an inch of throttle. Then it hits. It hits harder then I like. I have test driven three other brand new FI motorcycles and none do this. I made a graph to show Dave so he'll understand what I'm talking about. Green is what I want. Red is what it's doing. Have you tried riding the bike without TCS on??? I ride with TCS off 95%+ of the time I find it's much smoother vs TCS on due to my understanding of how the tunes are created on a dyno- TCS is turned off when they create a tune on the dyno since the front wheel does not rotate and the back wheel does which makes the TCS think something is wrong... 1 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodb47 Posted February 25, 2020 Share Posted February 25, 2020 6 hours ago, norcal616 said: Have you tried riding the bike without TCS on??? I ride with TCS off 95%+ of the time I find it's much smoother vs TCS on due to my understanding of how the tunes are created on a dyno- TCS is turned off when they create a tune on the dyno since the front wheel does not rotate and the back wheel does which makes the TCS think something is wrong... No. I'm going to try it . Thanks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 25, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted February 25, 2020 10 hours ago, norcal616 said: Have you tried riding the bike without TCS on??? I ride with TCS off 95%+ of the time I find it's much smoother vs TCS on due to my understanding of how the tunes are created on a dyno- TCS is turned off when they create a tune on the dyno since the front wheel does not rotate and the back wheel does which makes the TCS think something is wrong... That is very interesting, I will have to try it myself. 😎👍 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banderso Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Hi, Adjusted mine today. Started with #14 17/101 and #15 17/101. Ended up with #14 12/97 and #15 12/97. raining heavily... So, will have to wait to report results. thank you for the instructions! see ya bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodb47 Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Just an update. After I adjusted my 2017 using the OBD2 tool, I set it back to the original settings as I previously posted. I pulled all the connectors in the YCC-T system, inspected for corrosion and installed dielectric grease in the connectors. I used this video and the manual to check resistances which were good. I was specifically looking for dead spots or resistance spikes in the sensors. After that I did a throttle body sync, replaced the air filter, and adjusted the chain. The bike runs much better now with the abruptness being barely noticeable. I believe the only way to get rid of it is to reflash the ECU with custom settings or sell the bike lol. I did ride it with TCS off and didn't notice any difference in the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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