Accelerator Position Sensor (APS) Adjustment

[betoney]

18 minutes ago, rodb47 said:

Just an update. After I adjusted my 2017 using the OBD2 tool, I set it back to the original settings as I previously posted.  I pulled all the connectors in the YCC-T system, inspected for corrosion and installed dielectric grease in the connectors. I used this video and the manual to check resistances which were good. I was specifically looking for dead spots or resistance spikes in the sensors.

After that I did a throttle body sync, replaced the air filter, and adjusted the chain. The bike runs much better now with the abruptness being barely noticeable. I believe the only way to get rid of it is to reflash the ECU with custom settings or sell the bike lol. I did ride it with TCS off and didn't notice any difference in the throttle.

 

 

 

On 2/24/2020 at 7:14 AM, rodb47 said:

I hear you. I've had the bike for two years.  I've learned to live with this. It's very specific. Basically, after the initial slack is taken out of the throttle (I have it set to the minimum by the manual),  there is no fuel until about an eighth of an inch of throttle. Then it hits. It hits harder then I like. I have test driven three other brand new FI motorcycles and none do this.

You mentioned ECU flash, all tuners specifically address the fuel cut off issue.

Custom Flashing Service:(Stock Exhaust)

– Disable Injector Decel Cut   <---
– Professional fuel map modification to suit stock exhaust
– Removal of all gear based or speed dependent restrictions, TRE
– Optimized timing maps for 91+ octane
– Disable AIS valve (always closed)
– Reduce Fan Temps 205°F
– Speedometer Calibration
– Default to A-mode (If requested)
– ECU Based Quickshifter

 

[rodb47]

40 minutes ago, betoney said:

 

You mentioned ECU flash, all tuners specifically address the fuel cut off issue.

Custom Flashing Service:(Stock Exhaust)

– Disable Injector Decel Cut   <---
– Professional fuel map modification to suit stock exhaust
– Removal of all gear based or speed dependent restrictions, TRE
– Optimized timing maps for 91+ octane
– Disable AIS valve (always closed)
– Reduce Fan Temps 205°F
– Speedometer Calibration
– Default to A-mode (If requested)
– ECU Based Quickshifter

 

I had it flashed by Vcyclenut. The flash was great for engine decel, speed limiter, and general smoothness. Unfortunately there is almost like a dead spot until you have an 1/8 inch of throttle in. Very abrupt like a light switch. That's why I checked the resistance on the APS/TPS. I've already talked to Dave and will probably send the ECU back for reflash. It may just be my bike. 

[com3]

I've been having a lurch issue on my bike the last 10k miles. Did valves, throttle body synch, etc... 

 

Basically, when I go from 50%+ throttle to 0%, it'll sometimes throw a little extra fuel in and surge forward very briefly. 

Sometimes, if I pull the clutch in when it's having that issue, it'll have a sustained high idle (even well after being fully warmed up) at about 2500rpm. If I cycle the key, it'll go back to normal idle... Usually it'll just correct itself in a minute or two.

The problem has been intermittent...lots of times one ride, no times another ride...

Sometimes I'll go from 0% throttle to 5% throttle and nothing will happen at all for about 1 second, then POW, it feels like 15% throttle.

I suspected TPS/APS...using your diog info on here, it looks as though there are no flat spots, no jumps in numbers... My stock 14 numbers are 17-101 (on the high end of what this thread says it's stock). 15 is 16-100. 

I'm back to being baffled again...should I just buy new tps/aps ?

Edited April 18, 2020 by com3

[skipperT]

Sure, if you want to throw parts at a problem you haven’t diagnosed yet. But I would start by reading this thread:

DIAG mode is really only good for a fast scan of the values.  Remember that 15,16,17, etc is really only a number interpreted and put out by the ECM. In order to diagnose a possible issue here you need to rotate the throttle grip VERY slowly to see if the numbers jump  

The voltages and resistances tell the whole story. They also rely on a good ground from the ECM and a 5 volt reference signal from the ECM. The other 2  wires BOTH provide signals back to the ECM and should be relatively close (this is the safety feature by design, 2 signals that need to agree with each other)  

 Check and clean both APS and TPS connectors and sensor pins. make sure the setting screws are still snug. If you’re still having an issue you’ll need to disconnect the wiring from the sensors, and check the output of each tps sensor to see if a “jump” in resistance values occurs.  this is tricky to perform accurately. 
 

other causes for hanging idle: sticking throttle tube (grips hanging up on the hand guard adapter, etc), sticky throttle cables, vacuum leaks (TB’s seated correctly?) CAM TIMING (as found out by another owner on these forums)... etc, etc

(I need to pull up the manual from here, this is off the top of my head). 

also Check DIAG channel no 1  

-Skip

 

[com3]

On 4/20/2020 at 12:14 PM, skipperT said:

Sure, if you want to throw parts at a problem you haven’t diagnosed yet. But I would start by reading this thread:

 

oh, i read that before i posted.  i'm not a n00b.  (with forums OR wrenching)    

i adjusted the APS the other day....  changed values to 15/14 on diag 14/15 respectively.  no notches on roll-on anywhere in the diag (not to say there isn't an ohms issue [that i don't have a tool for])... surging issue still exists. 

just gonna do it the old fashion way and throw 80 bucks at a freshie and swap em out. *le sigh*

[skipperT]

14 hours ago, com3 said:

oh, i read that before i posted.  i'm not a n00b.  (with forums OR wrenching)    

i adjusted the APS the other day....  changed values to 15/14 on diag 14/15 respectively.  no notches on roll-on anywhere in the diag (not to say there isn't an ohms issue [that i don't have a tool for])... surging issue still exists. 

just gonna do it the old fashion way and throw 80 bucks at a freshie and swap em out. *le sigh*

Glad to hear you're not a noob, but I’m going to point out the obvious anyway - you need a digital volt-ohm meter (VOM) to test both sensors. 

If you’re going to take the risk, buy one sensor and install it in each position and test to see if it makes a difference in your running condition. 

Did you remove the camshafts during your other work? Touch the air screws for the sync at all? have you gone back over your other work? Is your fuel fresh? Have you performed a fuel pressure test?

are there any trouble codes stored?

-Skip

[com3]

3 hours ago, skipperT said:

Glad to hear you're not a noob, but I’m going to point out the obvious anyway - you need a digital volt-ohm meter (VOM) to test both sensors. 

If you’re going to take the risk, buy one sensor and install it in each position and test to see if it makes a difference in your running condition. 

Did you remove the camshafts during your other work? Touch the air screws for the sync at all? have you gone back over your other work? Is your fuel fresh? Have you performed a fuel pressure test?

are there any trouble codes stored?

-Skip

The problem arose before ever doing valves and throttle bodies.

It's had this issue for over 10,000 miles. 

[betoney]

@com3 - Hopefully replacing the TPS fixes the issue for you, I was just reading this morning on FZ09.org of someone with the same issue changing the TPS and the issue was resolved for them.

[skipperT]

4 hours ago, com3 said:

The problem arose before ever doing valves and throttle bodies.

It's had this issue for over 10,000 miles. 

Ok. 
Well then, good luck and keep us posted. 
-S

[spicciani2]

I have my tank off for new plugs and air filter I guess i will attempt this too...

[texscottyd]

1 hour ago, spicciani2 said:

I have my tank off for new plugs and air filter I guess i will attempt this too...

It’s a quick and easy process, and you can always set it back if you don’t like the results.   What year bike do you have?   It seems to make a bigger impact on the early bikes, which are known for having somewhat abrupt on/off throttle response.  

[spicciani2]

I have a 15 it is all stock. previous owner dropped it 3 years a go and hasnt ridden it since

Edited April 26, 2020 by spicciani2

[com3]

well...since doing this, i haven't had any more surging so far... though, the throttle feels FAR more snatchy than it did before, particularly in 2nd gear. 

i also cleaned my gear position sensor...  i wonder if that made a difference with mapping, as it hasn't been working properly for at least the last 10k miles...

Edited May 26, 2020 by com3

[rodb47]

19 minutes ago, com3 said:

well...since doing this, i haven't had any more surging so far... though, the throttle feels FAR more snatchy than it did before, particularly in 2nd gear. 

i also cleaned my gear position sensor...  i wonder if that made a difference with mapping, as it hasn't been working properly for at least the last 10k miles...

You changed the TPS?

[com3]

12 minutes ago, rodb47 said:

You changed the TPS?

negative. i just adjusted the parameters slightly from whatever stock was--i think 17--to 16 on the diag thingos.

Edited May 26, 2020 by com3