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Accelerator Position Sensor (APS) Adjustment

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23 hours ago, peteinpa said:

I'm still not quite happy after my ECU flash on my 15 after several rides.

Checked my current settings and have:  14:  17 and 102      15:   16 and 99

With them so high I should get it really smooth when done dropping to the 10 and 12 #'s..

Guess I'll rip it apart again for the umpteenth million time. 😡

I had the same experience with my 2015 FJ:  The ECU reflash alone was a huge improvement, but when I finally got around to adjusting the APS, that was the missing link.  It’s nice and smooth with on/off throttle transitions, and I ride it 100% in A-mode now.  

You mention 10 or 12 for the low numbers, but I didn’t go nearly that far.  Here are the adjustment notes from my files: 

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👍I'll be ripping it apart in an hour. With some here doing it twice to get lower #s I'll go for as low as I can keeping it in the parameters.

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57 minutes ago, peteinpa said:

👍I'll be ripping it apart in an hour. With some here doing it twice to get lower #s I'll go for as low as I can keeping it in the parameters.

Good luck!   While you’re wrenching, I’m riding...  far too nice of day to not be out enjoying it on the FJ. 

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Done. now 14 reads  13 and 98                                    15 reads  12 and 96

Low as it can go keeping all #s in range.

Just lift rear of tank, prop it, and a regular 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 8mm socket works.

 

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Just got back from a ride. WOW! This is the missing piece of the puzzle!

It now rides like the throttle is a rheostat.  Perfectly smooth, no jerking, even shifts better. Now acts like a carbed bike perfectly jetted. 2WDW flash is great, lots of power, but the APS adjustment makes it perfect.

Thanks  Piotrek!

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On 4/25/2021 at 2:07 PM, peteinpa said:

Done. now 14 reads  13 and 98                                    15 reads  12 and 96

Low as it can go keeping all #s in range.

Just lift rear of tank, prop it, and a regular 1/4 inch drive ratchet with 8mm socket works.

 

I did it so long ago, I'll have to look in my notes and procedure cheat sheets.  What "ranges" are you adhering to?

I can check TB sync without touching the tank because I installed hoses to the ports that I pull out and connect to my meter, so I only need to remove the bodywork and tank to change the air filter and check the valves.  I even change the spark plugs by only tipping the radiator.

 But next time I have to lift the tank I'll recheck the APS and fine tune TB sync.

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9 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I did it so long ago, I'll have to look in my notes and procedure cheat sheets.  What "ranges" are you adhering to?

I can check TB sync without touching the tank because I installed hoses to the ports that I pull out and connect to my meter, so I only need to remove the bodywork and tank to change the air filter and check the valves.  I even change the spark plugs by only tipping the radiator.

 But next time I have to lift the tank I'll recheck the APS and fine tune TB sync.

There is a high and low range listed in the manual for diag. 14 and 15. For smoothness you want the numbers as low as possible.

I thought about going lower than what's in the manual but didn't.

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1 hour ago, peteinpa said:

There is a high and low range listed in the manual for diag. 14 and 15.

The original post by @piotrek included a table with the reference ranges for both open and closed readings for Diag 14 and 15.   I've just copied it to here...   it's that 'Range' column for each of the four settings that you want to stay within.  

Capture1.jpg

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