Jump to content

Anyone played with stock suspension settings yet?


FigJam-OhNine

Recommended Posts

  • Premium Member
Checked my sag today and got interesting results. Supposedly, we look for 30% of total travel for race sag (unloaded in the air vs rider on bike with feet up).
Front travel is 5.4 inches. X 0.30=1.62 in.
Rear travel is 5.1 inches. X 0.30=1.53 in.
 
Here is what I measured;
Front 1.75 in. race sag
Rear 1.1875 in. race sag
 
Adjusted the front preload in 1 complete turn on both sides and now get:
Now at just under 6 lines showing, or 24/64 in from top to the bottom.
Front 1.64 in. which is fine.
 
Adjusted the rear all the way loose and still only got:
Rear 1.375 in. Stock was position 4, I loosened it to position 3.
 
Even though 1.375 is not 30%, I tightened it back up 2 spots (position 3) and it seems to compress at the same rate as the front now, so that is how I will leave it for now.
 
I am 180 lbs (had no gear on, but tried to get it close).
Will try out the settings next Thursday.
No rebound settings changed yet.

Did a test ride after work today on Angeles Forrest and Lower Big Tujunga. The back end was too mushy, so I pulled over and cranked it tighter two positions, now at position 5. Results, much better. The front end felt much better at speed and wasn't too bad over the washboard stuff. May need to mess with rebound next to fine tune things.  
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

New settings done last week for a 600 mile ride.  I felt the harshness to be brother some, to my 162# body, on the road so I took some preload off both front and back.  I backed off the front to 17mm and put the rear on 2.  This is almost to the softest settings.  The bike road much better, but I did touch my right peg once.  I had no problem with the suspension in the twisities and the ride was much better.  I did feel the rear needed to be moved to 3, but the front was fine at the new setting.  I didn't notice anymore dive when loading up the brakes but then I try to ride the twisties using "The Pace" and therefore would not have been trying to slow to 40 from 112 (the max my GPS had recorded after a number of times being limited in the top three gears).
 
On another note.  I did run all gears to the max on a number of occasions and feel that there should be just a little more on the limit in 4-6.  Had not problems with unusual wobble or head shake etc. at those speeds with basically unloaded side FJR bags on, but then I am using a GPR4 steering stabilizer.
 
Std. Settings:  Frt. Forks:  16mm
Std. Settings:  Rr. Shocks:  #4.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
Checked my sag today and got interesting results. Supposedly, we look for 30% of total travel for race sag (unloaded in the air vs rider on bike with feet up).
Front travel is 5.4 inches. X 0.30=1.62 in.
Rear travel is 5.1 inches. X 0.30=1.53 in.
 
Here is what I measured;
Front 1.75 in. race sag
Rear 1.1875 in. race sag
 
Adjusted the front preload in 1 complete turn on both sides and now get:
Now at just under 6 lines showing, or 24/64 in. from top to the bottom.
Front 1.64 in. which is fine.
 
Adjusted the rear all the way loose and still only got:
Rear 1.375 in. Stock was position 4, I loosened it to position 3.
 
Even though 1.375 is not 30%, I tightened it back up 2 spots (position 3) and it seems to compress at the same rate as the front now, so that is how I will leave it for now.
 
I am 180 lbs (had no gear on, but tried to get it close).
Will try out the settings next Thursday.
No rebound settings changed yet.

Did a test ride after work today on Angeles Forrest and Lower Big Tujunga. The back end was too mushy, so I pulled over and cranked it tighter two positions, now at position 5. Results, much better. The front end felt much better at speed and wasn't too bad over the washboard stuff. May need to mess with rebound next to fine tune things. Adjusted the rebound this Saturday. Two clicks in from stock in the forks and set the rear at 1 turn from full in (stock is 1.5 turns from full in). The result, very tight steering, but stable at speed. Wore me out.
Then I changed the front preload to only 1 click in from stock (position 6) and changed the rear preload to 1.25 turns from full in, and now I am happy. Fast turnin with stability at high speeds.

Here are my final settings: Front forks:
Preload, 24/64 inch from top of fork cap to bottom of adjuster (one complete turn cw from stock).
Rebound, 6 clicks out (ccw) from full in.
Rear shock:
Rebound, 1.25 turns out (ccw) from full in.
Preload, position 5 from full soft.
 
 
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tried these settings and difference is obvious even to a newbie like me  P-)
 
Weight: 93 kg
Riding Style: sporty riding on 60-100 kph twisties
Luggage or pillion: none
 
 
Shock Preload: 6
Rebound damping: 1/2 turns ccw from full in
 
Fork Preload: 2 full turns harder from standard setting
Rebound damping: 3 clicks ccw from full in
 
Settings were tested for couple of days on twisty hill climb.
Can definitely feel more bumps, but cornering is near perfect.
I'll get professional setup done in couple of months, just out of curiosity.  :) 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
The owner's manual actually shows you how to do both front and rear.  Parameters: I weigh 255 and usually ride solo.  I set rear damping for one turn from zero, pushed up spring preload one click from center on rear.  This eliminated squat on acceleration. I then set front fork spring preloads to 10mm protusion, with 6mm being the firmest, to cut brake and decel dive.  Key here is to make both forks the same.  I used a steel ruler with a ruler and wrench.  Went three clicks from full damping on right fork with a straight blade screwdriver.  The bike is now great on SMOOTH twisties.  It becomes a bucking bronco in heavily potholed twisties.  Too firm. Lightening the damping in the front and rear may ease this a bit. This will require another ride or two to sort it completely.  Can't wait to push it over a carousel turn to see how it sticks...  This bike is fun.  I'm in my middle fifties and after a ride, I'm sporting a teenager's huge grin.  Best thing is you can change damping in about two minutes for your road conditions.
Mid fifties here too and I know exactly what you mean about the grin!!! 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×