b12ty Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 As many of you know, the drain plug and guard fin cast into the pan hang a bit low. The fin protects the plug, but is itself a danger as a hit on it ( like a speed bump ) may crack the oilpan. Here is my take on doing this mod. A preventive fix is to cut off the fin and install a low profile drain plug. I used an angle grinder to rough cut the fin off. While I was at it, drained the 600 mile old oil! Not too bad looking. New low profile drain plug vs old. Mazda PN# FS50-21-249 ( Thx Lewis! ) Finished it smooth with a sanding flap disc in the grinder. There! That will give me a little more clearance, and peace of mind. Ty '05 Bandit 1200s ( Blue and White ) Bandit pic 2015 FJ-09 ( RED ) FJ-09 pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracerforme Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Beautifully explained! Thanks Ty! Just for information, what is the actual thread of the standard sump bolt please? And, what hex head socket size did you use to secure the Mazda low head bolt? And and, what torque spec did you tighten it to? Both units please. There is no need to paint the ground off surface. It's aluminium, so it ain't going to rust..... Again, thanks mate! Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FigJam-OhNine Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 @b12ty do you use a crush washer or does that low profile bolt have an o ring instead? How tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracerforme Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 8-) Figster, The standard crush washer will do the job. Now, get to work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b12ty Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Beautifully explained! Thanks Ty! Just for information, what is the actual thread of the standard sump bolt please? I believe its 14 x 1.5 And, what hex head socket size did you use to secure the Mazda low head bolt? 8mm And and, what torque spec did you tighten it to? Both units please. 31 ft-lbf, 43 Nm, like what the manual says. No O-ring, I used a washer. ***** EDIT: BASED ON ONE MEMBER'S EXPERIENCE, 31 POUNDS MAY BE TOO MUCH! I RECOMMEND 20-25 pnds, OR JUST GOOD AND SNUG!! ***** There is no need to paint the ground off surface. It's aluminium, so it ain't going to rust..... Yep, but I may paint it anyway with some flat black i have laying around. Again, thanks mate! Cheers, Steve '05 Bandit 1200s ( Blue and White ) Bandit pic 2015 FJ-09 ( RED ) FJ-09 pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted February 21, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted February 21, 2015 Nice write-up Ty, but I never torque a drain plug. TOOOOOOOOOOOO many stories of the threads stripping out. I use German torque only and have never had a problem. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 This torque issue is an old issue on the FJR sites. Ten years of people over torquing their drain plugs using the MFR recommended torque value of 31 lbs. Snug is good enough (don't use a 12" ratchet or wrench as that may get you to 30+ lbs. Use a short ratchet or wrench if you are going to use the German torque technique. Also see this thread:. The original poster deleted his original post, first mention of the Mazada drain plug alternative, so some of the info is good to read. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michel Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 What is the German torque technique? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted May 1, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 1, 2015 What is the German torque technique? Goo-din-tight A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panooch Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Thank you for the link Ty. Your posts are great Everyday's a good day when your able to ride 15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles) 07 Honda ST1300A (sold) 06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper) 97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?) 20+ years of snowmobiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member keithu Posted September 7, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted September 7, 2015 It's aluminium, so it ain't going to rust.... Aluminum doesn't "rust" but it most certainly does corrode. Corrosion product on aluminum is white and powdery and can lead to stress cracking. I definitely recommend putting some paint on the bare metal after doing this mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member topher73 Posted November 13, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted November 13, 2015 @b12ty, Thanks for the write up on this. How much time start to finish? Did you work off the center stand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b12ty Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 @b12ty, Thanks for the write up on this. How much time start to finish? Did you work off the center stand? About an hour including the oil change. I believe it was done on the center stand. Ty '05 Bandit 1200s ( Blue and White ) Bandit pic 2015 FJ-09 ( RED ) FJ-09 pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adjuster Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Nice write up. I plan on the low profile plug, with a magnet insert. And only taking the alloy "fin" down to level with the new plug, not lower. Figure a quick shot of flat black rattle can can't hurt, and it' not like you should ever notice it's either not painted or not, but to limit what little corrosion that might happen is easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucien Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 I couldn't get that drain plug locally so I took the stock one and ground it down to low profile. Works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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