Premium Member chadman Posted August 20, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 20, 2017 I've got the Garmin Zumo and Sykik X21F currently hard wired to the battery. Going to add an Adaptiv TPX. At what point do I get a wiring block? It's getting crowded under the seat! Chadman http://www.twistypedia.comThe roster: '79 Honda XL 125 '83, Honda Ascot VT500, '84 Kawasaki GPz 550, '83 Honda VF700, '86 Kawasaki Ninja 600, '87 Kawasaki Ninja 1000, '84 Suzuki GSX-R 750, '96 Honda CBR600F, '98 Kawasaki ZX-7R, '85 Kawasaki Ninja 600, '01 Suzuki GSX-R 750, '16 Yamaha FJ-09, '15 Yamaha FJR1300ES, KTM 1290 Super Duke GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Brick Posted August 21, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 21, 2017 Get the FZ-1 Fuse Block and feel safe knowing it's done right and you can changed from constant power to switched power on each circuit any time. It's a super product! Brick 2015 Yamaha FJ-09 "Red Molly" 2014 Yamaha Super Tenere' ES 1999 Suzuki SV650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owle Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Another option http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html I have one, good bit of kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 I was going to use this but I am to cheep, but it looked good. http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/denali-powerhub2-fuse-block-master-ground-block-and-wiring-harness-for-motorcycles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member builderbob Posted August 21, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 21, 2017 I used this one, but you have to wire in a relay in order to have it switched with the ignition. That added another $10 or so. Works like a charm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 I used this one, but you have to wire in a relay in order to have it switched with the ignition. That added another $10 or so. Works like a charm!That's a lot of scratch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member peporter Posted August 22, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 22, 2017 I was going to use this but I am to cheep, but it looked good. http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/denali-powerhub2-fuse-block-master-ground-block-and-wiring-harness-for-motorcycles Heres what I use on all of my bikes: https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html i USUALLY DON'T GO CHEAP ON SOMETHING THAT HAS THE POTENTIAL TO BURN MY BIKE TO THE GROUND.....YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 I was going to use this but I am to cheep, but it looked good. http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/denali-powerhub2-fuse-block-master-ground-block-and-wiring-harness-for-motorcycles Heres what I use on all of my bikes: https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html i USUALLY DON'T GO CHEAP ON SOMETHING THAT HAS THE POTENTIAL TO BURN MY BIKE TO THE GROUND.....YMMV Broken link, but good point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member peporter Posted August 22, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted August 22, 2017 Heres what I use on all of my bikes: https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html i USUALLY DON'T GO CHEAP ON SOMETHING THAT HAS THE POTENTIAL TO BURN MY BIKE TO THE GROUND.....YMMV Broken link, but good point Try this one, and go to the PC-8 kits. Really great quality equipment! http://easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okietgtrider Posted September 8, 2018 Share Posted September 8, 2018 Will soon be a FJ-09 owner myself and of course already thinking about installing a few accessories. Are there any threads or posts here showing examples of distribution block installs on this bike? Is there plenty of room under the seat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfreak Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Broken link, but good point Try this one, and go to the PC-8 kits. Really great quality equipment! http://easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html I have the Eastern Beaver fuse panel along with there relay harness. If you go this route tell them to extend the battery connection wires on the FJ/Tracer specific harness by 2 to 3 inches as mine was short and I had to do some "adjustments" to get it to fit. I have one of his fuse panels on the FJ, my Guzzi, my DL1000 and my wife's GS500.... I'm sure you get the picture. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okietgtrider Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 Try this one, and go to the PC-8 kits. Really great quality equipment! http://easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html I have the Eastern Beaver fuse panel along with there relay harness. If you go this route tell them to extend the battery connection wires on the FJ/Tracer specific harness by 2 to 3 inches as mine was short and I had to do some "adjustments" to get it to fit. I have one of his fuse panels on the FJ, my Guzzi, my DL1000 and my wife's GS500.... I'm sure you get the picture. Cheers Tinker could you talk a bit more about the adjustments you had to make and possibly give us a look at where you installed the PC8? Interested in this as I think the PC8 is the one I want to go with for my own bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfreak Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 I have the Eastern Beaver fuse panel along with there relay harness. If you go this route tell them to extend the battery connection wires on the FJ/Tracer specific harness by 2 to 3 inches as mine was short and I had to do some "adjustments" to get it to fit. I have one of his fuse panels on the FJ, my Guzzi, my DL1000 and my wife's GS500.... I'm sure you get the picture. Cheers Tinker could you talk a bit more about the adjustments you had to make and possibly give us a look at where you installed the PC8? Interested in this as I think the PC8 is the one I want to go with for my own bike. OK but will have to get a moment to open it up so be patient. I knew I should have taken pictures at the time I was doing the work. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okietgtrider Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Thanks Tinker. Look forward to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panther6834 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Instead of a traditional fuse block, you might also want to consider a "motorcycle circuit breaker". Rowe Electronics currently offers two different models - PDM60 ($200) & AmpLink ($250). Yes, I realize they are considerably more costly, but they provide numerous advantages. Both can be purchased directly from Rowe Electronics, while the PDM60 can be purchased from other sources, such as Revzilla, Twisted Throttle, etc. Both provide 6 circuits, a combined maximum output of 60A, and a max of 20A on any one circuit (the PDM60 only allows a single 20A circuit, while the AmpLink can have up to three 20A circuits. According to Rowe, you can actually exceed this 20A limitation by combining, for example, two circuits set to 15A, connecting to the power lead of a 30A accessory (truth be told, I haven't tested this, and probably won't). There are a few primary differences between the two. The first is that the PDM60 is programmed by connecting a proprietary cable to the USB port of a computer (desktop, laptop, or tablet (such as Microsoft Surface Pro)), while the AmpLink is programmed via Bluetooth connection using an iOS or Android app. With the PDM60, you can set individual circuits to be ":always on", or activated when the bike is started. In regards to the ignition-activated circuits, you can set a "start delay" time, as well a "deactivated" time. As for the AmpLink, each of the 6 circuits can be set to "ignition-activated", or "trigger" (such as a horn button) activated. Furthermore, but you have the ability to set "start delay" time, as well a "deactivated delay" times individually per circuit. A HUGE advantage of either of these is the "start delay". With normal connections, all accessories start drawing power at the same time you start your bike, causing a huge initial power drain...which, depending on your bike's battery output, could cause the bike to fail to start. With the delayed activation, the bike can be started...and then, how-many-ever-seconds you've set the delay (for all 6 circuits on the PDM60, or individually per circuit on the AmpLink), the accessories with start receiving their power. In my case, I have the AmpLink, plus an 8-point ground block. My "configuration is as follows: First, my Lithium-Iron battery has 4 connections - 2 positive & 2 negative (+ on left & right sides in the front, - on left & right sides in the rear). The bike's + and - are both connected to the right side. My MCCruise has the + and - connected directly to the battery's left side. The ground block is connected to the battery's left side. The AmpLink has the + connected to the battery's left side, and the - connected to the ground block. All other accessories are (or will, once purchased/installed)connected to the AmpLink for the +, and to the ground block for the -. The ground block is under the pillion seat, at the rear of the bike, while the AmpLink is directly below the pillion seat release mechanism, thus they are far enough apart so as to not worry about cross-polarity wires touching. As for the connections to the battery, it couldn't be any cleaner - the right side has one + & one - connection, while the left side has two + and two - connections. Theoretically, here's another suggestion - get yourself two ground blocks. First, connect one to a hidden switch, with the "ground" end of the switch connected to the battery's +, and place the "positive" ground block on one side of the bike. Next, connect the other (which I'll refer to as the "negative ground block") to the battery's -, and place it on the other side of the bike. Now you have the ability to connect up to 8 accessories, without a "spiderweb" of cables connected to the battery, plus you have a "control switch" for said accessories. While this is a considerably less-expensive option, you do lose the ability to set delay times for powering-up individual accessories. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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