Tracerforme Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Papac, perfect! thanks for showing the sketch and explanation! No comments about the welding, I'm no better! nothing that a Dremel tool or flap disc can't fix! Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b12ty Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Thx for info. Ty '05 Bandit 1200s ( Blue and White ) Bandit pic 2015 FJ-09 ( RED ) FJ-09 pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Now knowing what the insides look like and ? know approx. dimensions, couldn't you just use a cutoff and make a slice in the top about 2" long and insert a saw to cut off the inner curved pipe in the location where you cut it? Then cut off the pipe on the outside where you cut it? Then insert a large drill bit and make a hole (s) in the inner separator? Would that work so you wouldn't have to cut the whole top off? Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papac2000 Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 I'm sure there could be more clever variations of the method. I guess as long as the slots work out in the right place its easier that way. One thing I would wonder about would be fishing the cut piece of pipe out the exit. If you don't cut through both pipes at the weld it may work out well. Thinking about it more, it could be done....I made my hole through the baffle after cutting the original outlet off, while the top was on. 2015 Matte Grey Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracerforme Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Papac, You did mention the S bend pipe is welded to the outlet, right? So, as long as you could cut it from a slice cut at the top going across the chamber, this could be done? That way, the slice along the top requires a shorter strip of my shonky weld! 1 more thing Papac, for the life of me, I don't quite understand how you can leave the lower cover screw tab on the outlet when you have just cut the outlet clean off! I understand you use it to guide the location of the top tab, but how do you use the lower tab to position the new 2" outlet pipe? I'm a virgin.... Remember mate, I don't have a bike yet! Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papac2000 Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 The lower tab stays attached to the muffler, not the outlet. If you look, the lower tab has standoffs that attach to the outlet pipe. Cut these standoffs, and then the lower tab stays connected to the muffler down at its base. Hope that helps. 2015 Matte Grey Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracerforme Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Sir Papac, yes it does! Got it completely now. That explains it. From some of the angled shots, I thought it is only welded to the outlet pipe! Cheers Papac! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracerforme Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 :-/ Sorry Papac, 1 more question, did you measure the offset of the S bend pipe cut line from the edge of the top cover hole you original cut open? I know I'm a ball breaker, but, it would help to apply this offset from say the edge of the mounting tabs going across the collector so that the slice to the top yields the same cut as you did when the top cover was removed? Do you understand what I'm asking? Thanks bud! Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papac2000 Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Of course I never measured things as I did not consider this being done another way....LOL. The amount of pipe left behind is really inconsequential as it will no really be involved in the flow path any more. The issue here would be to choose a spot that would have the least chance of you coming in contact with the other pipes. The simplest might be to cut longitudinally along the top, in line with the inner weld of the mounting tab on the top (the one on the outlet side). This would still leave the baffle area exposed after to make the new hole. A more challenging location would be laterally to try to approximate my cut, but without a measurement, it could be tough. Not sure if it can be used to derive a dimension.....but I still have both the old outlet and the section from inside that was removed. 2015 Matte Grey Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Measure the diameter of the pipe. The distance could then be interpolated. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papac2000 Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Measure the diameter of the pipe. The distance could then be interpolated. It's actually not very round. Ranges from 1.475in to 1.5in OD. 2015 Matte Grey Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I measured on the monitor screen these dim. X=.62", Y=.75". With X actual dim. = 1.5", therefore Y = 1.82" by interpolation. X/1.5=.75/.62. Numbers were edited: Latest are shown. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracerforme Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 8-) 2 Ys don't make a pipe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papac2000 Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 If the photo were directly overhead I think your method would be sound. There is an angle to the view and the piece I am holding is closer to the lens. It gives an idea though. I would estimate 2 inches from the mounting bracket maybe instead of 1.82? Proceed at your own risk of course. 2015 Matte Grey Modded stock exhaust, modded stock screen, modded stock seat, OEM heated grips, LED indicators, FlashTuned ECU, ZX10R shock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I measured the cut pipe attached to the dividing wall, in the picture on my screen, at .62" and then used the number you gave at 1.47-1.5", therefore .62=1.5". I then measured the end of the cut pipe to the dividing wall at .75, therefore .75=Y. because they were so close together, and the shot was kinda overhead, I figured the amount of error would be negleglible. Y being the unknown. Therefore Y/.75=1.5/.62, Y=.75x1.5/.62, Y=1.8145" give or take. Most likely close enough to slice an opening as you can angle the saw blade to cut the pipe. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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