Suspension upgrades on a budget?

[phpaul]

Ah.  Thanks!
 
Not only does that get me back to work, but it kept me from doing something REALLY stupid!
 
I was about to put the stock cartridge back in...
 
Somehow or another I got them confused.  Fortunately, the new part won't fit on the old cartridge.  Also, once my other brain cell stopped in for a visit, the oil on the cartridge was a hint...
 
DOH!  
 
Thanks again!

[pattonme]

The cross-hatch goes UP. Yes it's opposite what you'd intuitively assume when looking at the part. It's a universal adapter - goes "upside down" on FZ/FJ and right side up on SV650/FZ07 etc.
 

[betoney]

The cross-hatch goes UP. Yes it's opposite what you'd intuitively assume when looking at the part. It's a universal adapter - goes "upside down" on FZ/FJ and right side up on SV650/FZ07 etc.

I knew I'd get it wrong (50/50 chance)  @phpaul - sorry if I gave you bad advice to flip it over, like I said its been a year since I got my cartridges from Matt.
 

[phpaul]

Well, poop. I'm gonna get REAL good at disassembling and reassembling FJ forks...
 
Thanks for the correction, better now than when I had both forks back together and the wheel installed!

[phpaul]

The cross-hatch goes UP. Yes it's opposite what you'd intuitively assume when looking at the part. It's a universal adapter - goes "upside down" on FZ/FJ and right side up on SV650/FZ07 etc.

I knew I'd get it wrong (50/50 chance)  @phpaul - sorry if I gave you bad advice to flip it over, like I said its been a year since I got my cartridges from Matt.

No worries, mate!  Just knowing where it went was a big help.  I paid good money for that fork tool kit, might as well get my money's worth out if it!  

[phpaul]

Annnnnd..we're done.
 
Couple of tips, one mine, one a repeat from a video:
 
1. A "workmate" or similar clamping table is very handy for holding the fork tube at a convenient level while you compress the spring during disassembly/reassembly.
 
2. If you have a skid plate (and you should!) an old fashioned scissors jack under the plate (with the bike on the center stand obviously...) is a great and very stable way to hold the front of the bike up while removing the front wheel.
 
Another note: I was able to hold the spring compressor down by hand long enough to slip the clip under the jamb nut so I could unscrew the top cap when disassembling. Reassembling with the heavier springs is a whole new ball game. After trying various ways I finally gave up and went and got my Brother-in-Law to help. Just no way to do with two hands.
 
There is a trick to do it using ratchet straps but I don't have any small enough and regular motorcycle tiedowns don't provide enough leverage.
 
All in all, a fairly simple process technically, but does absolutely require a couple of special tools.

[betoney]

Annnnnd..we're done. 
Couple of tips, one mine, one a repeat from a video:
 
1. A "workmate" or similar clamping table is very handy for holding the fork tube at a convenient level while you compress the spring during disassembly/reassembly.
 
2. If you have a skid plate (and you should!) an old fashioned scissors jack under the plate (with the bike on the center stand obviously...) is a great and very stable way to hold the front of the bike up while removing the front wheel.
 
Another note: I was able to hold the spring compressor down by hand long enough to slip the clip under the jamb nut so I could unscrew the top cap when disassembling. Reassembling with the heavier springs is a whole new ball game. After trying various ways I finally gave up and went and got my Brother-in-Law to help. Just no way to do with two hands.
 
There is a trick to do it using ratchet straps but I don't have any small enough and regular motorcycle tiedowns don't provide enough leverage.
 
All in all, a fairly simple process technically, but does absolutely require a couple of special tools.

Glad to hear that you got it all back together, just the stiffer springs will make a nice difference but with revalved internals as well, I think you are REALLY going to love the front end now.
 

[koth442]

Awesome! Hopefully I'll be doing the same upgrade soon

[bamarider]

Want to do this to mine when i get home next month.

[betoney]

Annnnnd..we're done.

Well, what do you think?  Curious to hear your opinion on the new forks.
 

[phpaul]

Annnnnd..we're done.

Well, what do you think?  Curious to hear your opinion on the new forks.

I've been holding off commenting for a couple of reasons. 
First, I'm not at all sure I'm sensitive enough to the nuances of handling to make an intelligent assessment of the changes.  
 
Second, the one thing I AM sure of is that the rear shock is horrible and is masking the effects of the mods in the front.
 
Having said that, I will say that on those rare occasions where I can separate the reaction of the forks from the reaction of the shock, the front seems more compliant and the bike seems less twitchy over the bumps.  Also, I took one click of preload out of the spring on the shock and that helped some as well.
 
I'm waiting to hear about a used/rebuilt ZX6 shock and will post a (hopefully) more definitive report when I get a few miles on that setup.

[norcal616]

as for budget... I think $1000 is best all around cost... seems like majority of basic cartridge drop in kits(re-built OEM carts and send back orginals for core refund, springs, etc) and a basic aftermarket shock such as the RazorR will accomplish alot more than ppl think... Yes I know it can be done cheaper/expensive but you can spend alot of $ only to find out you no clue what to do... or you can go really cheap only to find out its not what you wanted or it dont work any better than OEM...then some ppl are like yall got spoiled delicate behinds and think the FJ-09 suspension is cloud 8 outta 9 ?
 
as for budget suspension I needed more suspension control/adjustment to suit my light 185# frame and riding style 50/50 street/track...
 
  I went with
-ForksByMatt DIY kit- springs, carts for both fork legs 
-KTech Razor-R rear shock

[phpaul]

I got a used ZX6 shock that had been re-sprung and re-valved from member @carey which showed up in the mail today (Thanks, Carey!)
 
Just got back in the house from installing it.
 
Let me just say this about that job: Make SURE you're in a good mood and have your supply of patience topped off. Not technically difficult but EVERYTHING is a PITA to get at and requires some creative combinations of wrenches to accomplish.
 
I watched this video first:
 
 [video src=https://youtu.be/mm1QvXm9HU4]
 
which makes it look a lot easier than it actually is.  I expect that's due to him working on an FZ09 vs. the MT/FJ.  There's stuff in the way on the upper shock bolt that makes getting it out far enough to remove the shock a tad challenging.  
 
Also, the ZX6 shock's reservoir makes getting the new shock in interesting.  I wound up taking the mud guard off and hoisting the rear of the bike via a ratchet strap slung over the trusses in the garage to get the suspension to full extention.  It still took a fair bit of finagling to get it in and the holes lined up.
 
But, it's in, I didn't break anything, I only lost a little blood and I didn't have any parts left over.  If this bloody wind ever dies down, I'll take it for a ride and see how she behaves now.

[phpaul]

I found time to take a short ride with the ZX6 shock installed.
 
I need to set the sag as the bike doesn't seem to "settle" when I plant my ample fundament in the seat which worried me just a bit, but the ride was enlightening.
 
Bumps seem much more "modulated" for lack of a better term.  The suspension's reaction is more of a sine wave than a square wave if that makes any sense.  The frost heaves that Matt called a "curb"   are still pronounced but you can feel the suspension taking the edge off.  Not nearly as jarring.
 
Handling seems quicker and more planted.  I like to do S curves in my lane, flicking the bike back and forth like a NASCAR driver warming his tires.  With the stock bits, that was accompanied by a slight but noticeable rocking-horse motion.  Now it's perfectly flat or as nearly so as I can detect.
 
Busy day today, but if I get time I'll check and set the sag and re-test.  If there are significant changes I'll post back.
 
Overall, I'm very pleased, especially since I have just a whisker over $500 invested including the tool kit.

[phpaul]

Didn't see anywhere in the thread... did you use some kind of cartridge holding tool? I will be installing a Race Tech kit (FMGV S2050C) in the active leg and wonder whether I need to buy the tool or rig something up? I see how I can crack the bolt loose, but reassembly...  
 
Anyone with insight... Thanks!
 
EDIT: In the meantime, found this post on AdvRider. I've got me some EMT at home.
 
 

That's exactly what I did.  Made the tool out of a scrap of EMT I had laying around.