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Yamaha Unofficial Known Issue with FJ and FZ Engines

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41 minutes ago, jdavis said:

Yes it does.

fz-09-o-c.JPG

Well there you go I stand corrected.  Just eaten a nice big piece of humble pie and corrected my previous post. 🥧

Apologies to Dundee.

CS

Edited by captainscarlet

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As you noted in your update, the Yamaha CP3 engine does have an oil cooler;  part 9 in the drawing above is labeled “oil cooler assembly”.  We are all here to support each other so no problem.  The block was changed substantially for the 2017 model year (new machine work for the oil cooler, new oil pan, etc.).  The oil cooler was changed for cost reduction;  the new part is 1/3 the cost of the old part.  The block was also surreptitiously changed during the 2015/2016 engine production in an attempt to improve oil flow over the cam chain tensioner (you can read posts about it on this forum).  If you have the Yamaha instructions for replacement of the CCT you will see that there are 2 versions that are not interchangeable as the CCT bore is different between the 2 blocks (one block for 2014-15 and another block for 2015-16).   Given the cost of engine development, especially against low production in motorcycles, it is very unusual to see all these changes on the top and bottom ends of the engine as that requires a lot of changes in configuration management, parts, tooling, training, etc.  If you take a model like the Suzuki Vstrom 650, there are very few changes of this significance during the life of a much older product.  It could be that Yamaha is super proactive and jumps on needed changes faster than their competitors.  If someone is on the forum from Yamaha or a dealer it would be interesting to get their take on it.

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I did my first valve adjustment at 14,000 miles on my 2015 FJ09. I found that all valves were set at .005 clearance. I was not the only one that found the factory set the exhaust valves too close. This could be the source of the problem. 

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Hello guys,

I need your help.

I checked my valves clearances and this was the result in mm.

Intake. 11-20mm
Exhaust. 26-30mm

Intake: .11/12 - 12/13 - 12/13

Exhaust: .21/.22 - .22/23 - .22/23

 

Do you think i should adjust them all?

 

Thanks

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15 minutes ago, tray said:

Hello guys,

I need your help.

I checked my valves clearances and this was the result in mm.

Intake. 11-20mm
Exhaust. 26-30mm

Intake: .11/12 - 12/13 - 12/13

Exhaust: .21/.22 - .22/23 - .22/23

 

Do you think i should adjust them all?

 

Thanks

Yes.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks. Let's get to work.

Forgot to say that i have 32000kms/about 20kmiles. FJ09 2015

😅

 

Edited by tray
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13 hours ago, tray said:

Hello guys,

I need your help.

I checked my valves clearances and this was the result in mm.

Intake. 11-20mm
Exhaust. 26-30mm

Intake: .11/12 - 12/13 - 12/13

Exhaust: .21/.22 - .22/23 - .22/23

 

Do you think i should adjust them all?

 

Thanks

Good luck on those intake valves. Prepare yourself for a tough situation, because you need to bear in mind that the shim sizes that are widely available may not allow you to get to the middle of the spec. 

Typically EX valves go loose, and IN valves get tighter with miles, if that helps you with some of your shim decisions. Some won't agree with this statement, but one could re-use a factory valve shim if it was different by 0.01mm or so and got you closer to the spec - AND it was in good condition with no clear indentation.

-Skip

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54 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Good luck on those intake valves. Prepare yourself for a tough situation, because you need to bear in mind that the shim sizes that are widely available may not allow you to get to the middle of the spec. 

Typically EX valves go loose, and IN valves get tighter with miles, if that helps you with some of your shim decisions. Some won't agree with this statement, but one could re-use a factory valve shim if it was different by 0.01mm or so and got you closer to the spec - AND it was in good condition with no clear indentation.

-Skip

Im really hoping that someday you decide to do a tech tip on how to check valves and I swear that if you also include pics and steps on shimming, I'll make you member of the year. 

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3 hours ago, skipperT said:

Good luck on those intake valves. Prepare yourself for a tough situation, because you need to bear in mind that the shim sizes that are widely available may not allow you to get to the middle of the spec. 

Typically EX valves go loose, and IN valves get tighter with miles, if that helps you with some of your shim decisions. Some won't agree with this statement, but one could re-use a factory valve shim if it was different by 0.01mm or so and got you closer to the spec - AND it was in good condition with no clear indentation.

-Skip

Thanks. Right now I'm confused. From what I ve been reading the ex valves get tighter over miles... 

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5 hours ago, tray said:

Thanks. Right now I'm confused. From what I ve been reading the ex valves get tighter over miles... 

No one on here reported any different. All valves seem to get tighter with use on this engine, but exhaust valves look to be better at it.

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19 hours ago, Cruizin said:

Im really hoping that someday you decide to do a tech tip on how to check valves and I swear that if you also include pics and steps on shimming, I'll make you member of the year. 

I really hope he just writes a phucking service manual, I'd pay money for that!

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10 minutes ago, koth442 said:

I really hope he just writes a phucking service manual, I'd pay money for that!

You guys crack me up... where do you think I learned how to do it?

i just have too much hands-on experience...

-S

  • Haha 2

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Hello,

Intake. 11-20mm
Exhaust. 26-30mm

image.png.c08cb75a69cce67795c3cc7d5e8ed8cd.png

What do you think? Are my math correct or does it need some tweaks?
I will reuse some shims. they have a slight center mark but i think they are fine. i will upload an image of the shim.

Thanks

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