Most frustrating thing you've done to your bike so far?

[NqN]

I decided I wanted to be super thorough cleaning my chain. I took off the front sprocket cover then started with the chain guard. First bolt closest to the front wasn't that bad. I looked around for another screw and found it on the inside of the swing arm. I had to MacGyver a socket, an extension, rubber bands, and a crescent wrench (extension wasn't long enough) in order to reach it. Then I tried to take the thing off but it was held in by this plastic thing. After about 15 minutes of straight cursing I went apeshit and broke it off. I proceeded to clean my chain. I put everything back together sans plastic thing. I'm just hoping that this doesn't come back to bite me in the butt later.
 
Good news is my chain is looking mighty clean. 

 

[FigJam-OhNine]

I decided I wanted to be super thorough cleaning my chain. I took off the front sprocket cover then started with the chain guard. First bolt closest to the front wasn't that bad. I looked around for another screw and found it on the inside of the swing arm. I had to MacGyver a socket, an extension, rubber bands, and a crescent wrench (extension wasn't long enough) in order to reach it. Then I tried to take the thing off but it was held in by this plastic thing. After about 15 minutes of straight cursing I went apeshet and broke it off. I proceeded to clean my chain. I put everything back together sans plastic thing. I'm just hoping that this doesn't come back to bite me in the butt later.  
Good news is my chain is looking mighty clean. 

Hahaha oh man, are you going to kill me if I tell you that all you have a to do is push the center and those things pop right out?

[NqN]

Maybe I'm just retarded. But I tried man, I tried so hard.

[FigJam-OhNine]

Maybe I'm just retarded. But I tried man, I tried so hard.

Really? Hmm, I had to remove some when I installed the auxiliary power outlet. The middle pin should push in by a couple millimeters then the whole thing pulls out. You have to reset it before re-installing by pushing the middle pin out a bit, reinstall, then push the pin until it's flush to lock it again.  
If you tried that and it didn't work, maybe it was stuck on something. I think if you go to an auto parts place, you can probably buy a replacement. In Canada I use Lordco. Sucks that it broke. I was swearing at mine too until I accidently hit the middle with a screw driver and it pushed in. It was my eureka moment. 

[NqN]

Maybe I'm just retarded. But I tried man, I tried so hard.

Really? Hmm, I had to remove some when I installed the auxiliary power outlet. The middle pin should push in by a couple millimeters then the whole thing pulls out. You have to reset it before re-installing by pushing the middle pin out a bit, reinstall, then push the pin until it's flush to lock it again.  
If you tried that and it didn't work, maybe it was stuck on something. I think if you go to an auto parts place, you can probably buy a replacement. In Canada I use Lordco. Sucks that it broke. I was swearing at mine too until I accidently hit the middle with a screw driver and it pushed in. It was my eureka moment. 

With the way it was angled I tried putting a flat object behind it and pushing the pin out aaand it snapped, along with the last of my patience.  

[redfjniner]

You must not be understanding how to do this. I have been working on Yamaha's for over ten years and have never had one of these fail to work.
 
1. Push in on the little center. You can do this with a small screw driver or a punch. It will go into the hole further.
2. Once you have pushed it in, the whole gizmo will come out. You may have to stick a screw driver in under the flange to get it free, but once it moves just a little you should be able to pull it out with you fingers.
 
Find another one and practice.
 

[philkin]

Installing the Givi Universal Adapter on top of the Yamaha Trunk tail piece. If someone else has done this I would like to hear there solution.
 

[yamaham]

Refer to What did you do to your FJ today for info on Givi adapter installation.

[gabefzr6]

Today I changed the oil again and started to strip the drain bolt.    I had done the low profile bolt conversion with the Mazda part and torqued it to 31 lb. ft.  After thinking about it, I think that the fact that the Mazda bolt has about half as many threads as the stock bolt explains why it is stripping.  Does anyone know the Mazda torque specification for their bolt?  It looks like it is time for me to order a service manual along with an oil pan and gasket.  Oh well, live and learn.  

[b12ty]

Crap, sorry to hear that gabefzr6. I didn't have a problem with torquing it to 31 pounds, but it did seem like a lot for a drain plug. From what I googled, Mazda spec on that plug is 22-30 ft. pounds, go figure.
 
How thick was the washer you used? I used a thin copper washer form local auto parts store. Maybe exposed more threads than a "crush" washer? Or I got lucky. I'm gonna edit my how to thread to add a caution to over tightening the plug. ( 20-25 pounds or just good and snug? )
 
Looks like $137.42 for the pan, plus plus $12.94 for gasket at YAMAHAPARTSPRO.COM
 
Good luck.
 
Ty
 

[sailorjack]

Sounds like a job for Helicoil. Saved me on a stripped SV650 oil drain plug. Sorry to hear of your pain.

[redfjniner]

It has been noted on the FJR board that torquing the drain plug to 31 lbs has stripped many pans. Most Owners that have taken note just tighten to "snug", but there are many that claim the 31 lbs hasn't failed them. Snug would equate to anound 20-27 lbs depending on the lever arm. I use a short rachet or just a wrench, shorter the better. If I torque, I set it at 26 lbs. This is one reason why I liked the NAPA drain plug, because it has a rubber washer, therefore you will not have to tighten it as much.
 
As noted in a Feb. 3 post in Fixing achilles heel drain plug:  "I just picked this up at NAPA. It is a replacement part for a Mazda drain plug. Not exactly the same but suppose to work. It is a 10MM x 1.5 pitch with a 45 Tork. Will check it out next time I change oil. It has a rubber "O" Ring gasket, therefore the torque may only be required to be 10-12 lbs. (?) Will have to check that out. If that is the case and it works, that would put an end to over torqueing the drain plugs and stripping the threads. $3.62.
"

 
Take note folks, that when you don't add to an existing post and start a new post that covers the same information, we lose good valuable information.  As is the case with the drain plug.  Here are the posts: 
 
Fixing achilles heel drain plug:  http://fj-09.org/thread/366/fixing-achilles-heel-drain-plug
Low profile drain plug install:  http://fj-09.org/thread/540/low-profile-drain-plug-install
 
 
 
 
 

[Guest bruinfj09guy]

I, too, stripped my drain plug. I did it at the 600 mile service and was not impressed with myself at all! For that matter I was not entirely impressed with Yamaha and the overzealous drain-plug torque spec.
 
I bought the Timesert repair kit featured here: http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Kit-Part-1215/dp/B001JK44D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440390591&sr=8-1&keywords=time+sert+m12+x+1.5
 
The kit worked well. I have no leaks. I did take special care to make sure I was tapping straight and to adequately countersink the insert. I actually countersunk a little more than necessary, but didn't go through the pan so all is well. I AM happy to now have steel threads in my oil pan.
 
I think I paid $126 from Amazon. I have all but one of the inserts and the included threading equipment which I would probably sell for a substantially discounted price from retail. Let me know.
 
Now I have a concern about my chain and potentially having ran it over-tightened (also to spec). I shall post about that in another thread.

[redfjniner]

I, too, stripped my drain plug. I did it at the 600 mile service and was not impressed with myself at all! For that matter I was not entirely impressed with Yamaha and the overzealous drain-plug torque spec. 
I bought the Timesert repair kit featured here: http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Kit-Part-1215/dp/B001JK44D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440390591&sr=8-1&keywords=time+sert+m12+x+1.5
 
The kit worked well. I have no leaks. I did take special care to make sure I was tapping straight and to adequately countersink the insert. I actually countersunk a little more than necessary, but didn't go through the pan so all is well. I AM happy to now have steel threads in my oil pan.
 
I think I paid $126 from Amazon. I have all but one of the inserts and the included threading equipment which I would probably sell for a substantially discounted price from retail. Let me know.
 
Now I have a concern about my chain and potentially having ran it over-tightened (also to spec). I shall post about that in another thread.

I thought the same about the chain.  I'm now at 22,000 miles and nothing negative has happened, other than me being sensitive to the sounds.  Replaced the OEM chain at 14,000 miles and the new chain seems to be doing okay.

[santacruz]

Fitted yamahas new rad guard,had to take most of the plastic bits of to get to the rad,i also broke one of those plastic bung things.