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Did your FJ09 have tight valves at 26.6 mile/42km Service?


DavidS

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2 hours ago, skipperT said:

Hey @Piotrek I was just re-reading this thread - I could be wrong, but in the above chart that you provided, I think maybe that you mixed up which shims were in what location?  Meaning, you list 2.020, 2.010, 2.010 etc, above as being Factory Intake valve shims.  Pretty sure those were your Exhaust shims. The Intake shims would have been 1.800, 1.810, 1.810, 1.850 etc.

Just so that the data is correct and people reading this thread for the first time don't get confused. (i'm not trying to be an ass... :) )

-Skip T

Timely note @skipperT.... NOT! 😂

I checked photos of my parts layout, and have to believe these are correct. Lash checked out prior to closing things up, and the bike ran like a champ... but you have planted a seed of doubt that will be hard to shake until I can run the bike in the spring. 😭

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2 hours ago, betoney said:

...what is a good interval for adjustment, he said they were tight at 23k but not alarmingly so...

Gotta wonder what 'alarmingly' means. I noticed very slight signs of tracking along exhaust cam lobes where lash was very tight. Didn't think it required action, but certainly raised a flag for me. I will look in there again in ~25K km (15K mi), or two seasons.

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7 hours ago, piotrek said:

Gotta wonder what 'alarmingly' means.

Indeed.  Another point I find problematic is that people are reporting tight exhaust valves, but how tight is tight? @piotrek you have reported your values in exemplary fashion so that we can actually see what tight means in your case.  However for everybody else who has just reported tight; what does that mean?  Are they just outside spec or completely off?  Also what values out of spec are considered "dangerous" or close to "impending mechanical carnage"?

CS

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ALL my valves had "alarmingly tight" lash, I mean to the extent that after I adjusted them to the loose side of spec, and when I finally rode it afterward I could discern a marked improvement in performance that had me worried if damage had been done (and confirmed a drop in performance I thought I felt prior).  I'll have to check my log to report on how tight they were but even the intakes were very tight.  I adjusted them at about 25,500 miles but I plan on checking them again at 41,000 miles or only a 16,000 mile interval.

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On 1/27/2019 at 8:38 PM, piotrek said:

Timely note @skipperT.... NOT! 😂

I checked photos of my parts layout, and have to believe these are correct. Lash checked out prior to closing things up, and the bike ran like a champ... but you have planted a seed of doubt that will be hard to shake until I can run the bike in the spring. 😭

150053051_valvejob(45).thumb.jpg.110c752138e8039d919bc4733be894fb.jpg

32564474_valvejob(46).thumb.jpg.f626cf85dd9431fff7b3c8934ca5a9e1.jpg

Oooo valve adjust porn, I love it. Nice shots!

Sorry to plant the seed, usually when I pull camshafts the ex valves always have the thicker shims. Not a big deal, if the bike runs good, then twist it! 

Yeah, definitely  not a timely post. It's funny how the software change is bringing out posts that I've missed!

-S

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20 hours ago, skipperT said:

...Sorry to plant the seed, usually when I pull camshafts the ex valves always have the thicker shims...

Ventured to the FZ-09 forum, where it seems that this topic received some attention (here), and found buddy's worksheet reassuring. Could be that this engine bucks the trend in more ways than one. The thread is a good read overall, with some good hard data.

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One more stab at this thread... really wish I didn't have to do that, but I poached some data from the FZ-09 forum and inserted my lash readings (highlighted) for the exhaust valves. All lash values in metric. Spec calls for 0.26 to 0.30.

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My final worksheet, with as-installed shim sizes...

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Alarmingly for me as a mechanic means riding valves or close to. Or valves that are tight in multiple successive checks. We used to set the valves closer to the tight end of the scale on the track bikes for more lift and duration. However pointless it may have been. Valves have differing sized shims for a reason and they do move. If they were the old screw style tappets they would just get adjusted and no one would even care!

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On 2/1/2019 at 7:54 PM, Buggy Nate said:

Alarmingly for me as a mechanic means riding valves or close to...

Just for visual reference, lash measured on the two in photo below... 0.114 (tightest), and 0.165, left to right respectively. Two exhaust valves in the lot that came in at just about 0.20 did not show track marks. Needless to say... the work was very timely.

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  • 1 month later...
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Just had mine checked at 53K miles. All were within spec.The tech that has performed it for me both times said that they hadn't really changed since the first time i had them checked at 26K.

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Let’s go Brandon

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/11/2018 at 7:35 PM, piotrek said:

It would be great if folks reporting in this thread posted measured valve lash values in addition to mileage etc. If you're not doing the work, ask your wrench. They should have these values readily available/noted, all paid for. 🤓

Model year would be helpful as well.

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  • 2 months later...

All exhaust valves were tight on my 2015 @ 42000kms. Intake valves were all in spec.

#1 Intake: L 0.165mm R 0.165 

Exhaust: L 0.165mm R 0.216mm

#2 Intake: L 0.152mm R 0.152mm 

Exhaust: L 0.140mm R 0.178mm

#3 Intake: L 0.152mm R 0.140mm 

Exhaust: L 0.140mm R 0.140mm

Edited by Dark&Stormy
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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick question... kind of a head scratcher on my end. I changed the exhaust shims and after I rechecked the clearance I found I now have 0mm clearance on cyclinder 1 exhaust valves and left intake valve but cylinder 2 and 3 are right on target. Im guessing the problem is the shims did not stay seated when I installed the tappets? Any ideas??🤔

Edited by Dark&Stormy
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54 minutes ago, Dark&Stormy said:

Quick question... kind of a head scratcher on my end. I changed the exhaust shims and after I rechecked the clearance I found I now have 0mm clearance on cyclinder 1 exhaust valves and left intake valve but cylinder 2 and 3 are right on target. Im guessing the problem is the shims did not stay seated when I installed the tappets? Any ideas??🤔

As long as you are measuring with the cam in the same position now as you did before, then yes. Or you made a math mistake or mixed up which shim came from where, or the bucket isn’t quite seated in the head correctly. 

If it were me, I’d pull the cam again and verify my work. Also wouldn’t hurt to have a look at the top of the valve stem once you have the bucket out and be sure the keepers are still in their correct (locked) position. A valve spring ready to push its way out of the head would cause a tight measurement as well. 

-Skip

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