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HaloCam M1 Motorcycle Dash Camera

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I have been using a Sena 10C Bluetooth camera for years now. I've loved it, but it is on its last legs. The battery has no life left and I think there's an internal memory error. I've been waiting for Sena to release the updated version, the Sena 10C Evo. Sena is about two years late on the Evo release, so I quit holding my breath on getting a replacement from Sena. When I bought the 10C, I only wanted a 20S and opted for the camera headset entirely on a whim. After buying it, I've been very happy with the camera. While I use it on trips, ninety percent of the time, I am using this helmet camera as a "dash" camera. My thinking is that if I am run off the road in a hit-and-run, my wife can tell the cops to check the camera for who the other party is. So I was looking for a trouble-free solution where I could get video from the front of my motorcycle as well as the rear. I also wanted something that would be powered by the motorcycle and not have a limitation of two hours as so many "action" cameras have before the battery runs out. Lastly, I wanted something discreet so I wouldn't have to worry about it being stolen. After doing a lot of research, I decided on the HaloCam M1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D371DRF Cost was only $179.89. I highly recommend it.
 
What attracted me to the HaloCam M1 was a couple things. First, it has 1080p cameras on the front and rear. Many of the older or less expensive cameras are only 720p. I don't know much about the cameras, but I do know that Sony is a good name brand, and they are using Sony cameras in the M1. That's a plus. The other big plus in my mind, was the wi-fi capability. Trying to aim your cameras without being able to see what you're doing in real time is a pain. The HaloCam M1 comes with a nice app for a smartphone that allows you to see what the cameras see in real time. You can also download your videos without touching the DVR unit, and even make changes to the settings from the app. It's slick. I was impressed with the HaloCam M1 from even the time I opened the box. The outside isn't glitzy. It actually has a touch of class to it, IMHO.
 
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When you open the box, you'll see the DVR unit along with the two cameras and the manual switch neatly arranged. To me, everything looked professional, not cheap. This was promising.
 
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Lift that packaging up and you'll see the cords neatly tucked away underneath. They use a short cord attached to each item like the cameras with a longer section to run from that camera to the DVR unit. Everything is color coded. You can't mess this up in the installation. Even the color coded plugs have only one way to plug them in. You can't mess it up. And they include heat shrink tubing that you can use to guarantee the connections are waterproof. They have thought of everything.
 
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Installation is straight-forward. Mount the front and rear cameras. Mount the GPS device they include. And mount the manual switch. Then find places on your motorcycle to hide the wires and plug them into the DVR. The last thing is to find a good power supply.
 
The front camera is mounted on the black "lip" under the headlight. I doubt you can see it.
 
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The rear camera is a little more visible...but I doubt you'd notice it without it being pointed out.
 
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You'll want a power connection that turns off when the ignition is turned off. Otherwise, the camera will continue to record and you'll run your battery down eventually. I connected mine to the tail light circuit. I have a BMW, and there's a lot of concern about the CANBUS system having errors when you do this. I had no problems with mine. They also include a USB power connector that you can use to power the camera. Again, very well thought out.
 
One note. The DVR does not have any built in memory storage. You'll need to supply your own SD memory card. Use the highest speed memory card you can buy for this, since you're recording from two cameras simultaneiously with sound. I used a Class 10, U1 card and the images were pixelated. With a Class 10, U3 card, all seems fine.
 
What is it like in use? I've attached three screen captures. The rear camera shows a white vehicle merging behind me on the freeway. If you look closely, you can see another car to the side of it.
 
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The next picture shows the blue car rapidly gaining speed. Although there is a large open space to merge into, it is clear he is not merging there.
 
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The last picture shows the blue car cutting in front of me. BTW, the only reason he had that much space to merge into, was that I wasn't going to "fight" for my space and I backed off. Right after he moved in front of me, he cut over two more lanes in heavy traffic. If there had been an accident, the video shows a seamless capture of his actions from the rear camera to the front camera.
 
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I haven't tested this yet smiley.png , but if there had been an accident, the camera has a vibration sensor that locks the video so it isn't overwritten.
 
This is not an "action" camera, yet one of the sales people at Cycle Gear mentioned that the video I showed her was as good or better than her GoPro. I don't know if I'd go that far. But it is good.
As a "dash" camera though, I'd rate it as exceptional. The quality of everything is excellent, and the price is great.
 
I have only one nit-pick... When you mount the cameras in their mounts, they are still a little lose when the screw is tightened all the way. The "fix"...just use another washer on the inside of the two arms of the mount that holds the camera and it'll tighten just fine. That is really minor. You'll see what I mean when you mount yours.
 
Lastly, I have to make a comment about the HaloCam customer service. It is exceptional. I notice that of the previous reviews, one person had issues with his camera. I did too initially. I contacted them and they were outstanding in resolving my issue. I don't know when I've had better customer service. They definitely stand by their product.
 
Chris

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I'd like to see the quality as well. I was previously using a Go Pro hero 4 that captured my accident in 2016, and since then I've upgraded to the Hero 6.
 
I use the Hero 6 on the helmet chin and I toss the Hero 4 on the back as a rear facing camera. If I put the Hero 6 on 2.7k @ 60 fps, I can zoom in on license plates in my editing software and it's clear enough that if I can read a plate with my eyes on the road, I can make it out on the video.
 
It's just a bit of a pain to sync two cameras and Bluetooth audio from the Sena. I use them like a dash-cam setup while commuting and would love something easier and mounted to the motorcycle. This looks perfect.
 
Does it have any GPS overlay options? I know that's pretty common in dash cams now as well.
Edit:  I clicked the link to Amazon and it does indeed have GPS for route tracking. Awesome!

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TwoWheelObsession did a great (almost 19 minute) video review, covering installation, as well as some daytime (at the 16:28 mark) & nighttime (at the 17:11 mark) video examples, front & rear. He also mentions the looseness of the bolt holding the camera to the mount, and mentions the same lock-washer solution. Here's the link to his video review:
 

 
While my car already has a 2-channel dashcam system (Thinkware F770 (front) & F770R (rear)), I've been looking for a front/rear dashcam system for the bike. Of the various models I've read reviews for, and watched videos about, the HaloCam M1 does appear to be one of the best options (I can't honestly say "the best", as I'm certain I don't know ALL available models/options). I was waiting for Sena to release the 10C Pro (will be MUCH better than the also-not-yet-released 10C Evo), but (a) I'm tired of waiting, & (b) it's really just another "action cam", and not a true dashcam. Looks like the HaloCam M1 will be my 'winner', as well.

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Ugh... Almost got motion sickness watching the video from the CAM. I'll stick with my GoPro chin mount for now.
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I have been using a Sena 10C Bluetooth camera for years now. I've loved it, but it is on its last legs. The battery has no life left and I think there's an internal memory error. I've been waiting for Sena to release the updated version, the Sena 10C Evo. Sena is about two years late on the Evo release, so I quit holding my breath on getting a replacement from Sena. When I bought the 10C, I only wanted a 20S and opted for the camera headset entirely on a whim. After buying it, I've been very happy with the camera. While I use it on trips, ninety percent of the time, I am using this helmet camera as a "dash" camera. My thinking is that if I am run off the road in a hit-and-run, my wife can tell the cops to check the camera for who the other party is. So I was looking for a trouble-free solution where I could get video from the front of my motorcycle as well as the rear. I also wanted something that would be powered by the motorcycle and not have a limitation of two hours as so many "action" cameras have before the battery runs out. Lastly, I wanted something discreet so I wouldn't have to worry about it being stolen. After doing a lot of research, I decided on the HaloCam M1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D371DRF Cost was only $179.89. I highly recommend it. 
What attracted me to the HaloCam M1 was a couple things. First, it has 1080p cameras on the front and rear. Many of the older or less expensive cameras are only 720p. I don't know much about the cameras, but I do know that Sony is a good name brand, and they are using Sony cameras in the M1. That's a plus. The other big plus in my mind, was the wi-fi capability. Trying to aim your cameras without being able to see what you're doing in real time is a pain. The HaloCam M1 comes with a nice app for a smartphone that allows you to see what the cameras see in real time. You can also download your videos without touching the DVR unit, and even make changes to the settings from the app. It's slick. I was impressed with the HaloCam M1 from even the time I opened the box. The outside isn't glitzy. It actually has a touch of class to it, IMHO.
 
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When you open the box, you'll see the DVR unit along with the two cameras and the manual switch neatly arranged. To me, everything looked professional, not cheap. This was promising.
 
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Lift that packaging up and you'll see the cords neatly tucked away underneath. They use a short cord attached to each item like the cameras with a longer section to run from that camera to the DVR unit. Everything is color coded. You can't mess this up in the installation. Even the color coded plugs have only one way to plug them in. You can't mess it up. And they include heat shrink tubing that you can use to guarantee the connections are waterproof. They have thought of everything.
 
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Installation is straight-forward. Mount the front and rear cameras. Mount the GPS device they include. And mount the manual switch. Then find places on your motorcycle to hide the wires and plug them into the DVR. The last thing is to find a good power supply.
 
The front camera is mounted on the black "lip" under the headlight. I doubt you can see it.
 
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The rear camera is a little more visible...but I doubt you'd notice it without it being pointed out.
 
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You'll want a power connection that turns off when the ignition is turned off. Otherwise, the camera will continue to record and you'll run your battery down eventually. I connected mine to the tail light circuit. I have a BMW, and there's a lot of concern about the CANBUS system having errors when you do this. I had no problems with mine. They also include a USB power connector that you can use to power the camera. Again, very well thought out.
 
One note. The DVR does not have any built in memory storage. You'll need to supply your own SD memory card. Use the highest speed memory card you can buy for this, since you're recording from two cameras simultaneiously with sound. I used a Class 10, U1 card and the images were pixelated. With a Class 10, U3 card, all seems fine.
 
What is it like in use? I've attached three screen captures. The rear camera shows a white vehicle merging behind me on the freeway. If you look closely, you can see another car to the side of it.
 
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The next picture shows the blue car rapidly gaining speed. Although there is a large open space to merge into, it is clear he is not merging there.
 
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The last picture shows the blue car cutting in front of me. BTW, the only reason he had that much space to merge into, was that I wasn't going to "fight" for my space and I backed off. Right after he moved in front of me, he cut over two more lanes in heavy traffic. If there had been an accident, the video shows a seamless capture of his actions from the rear camera to the front camera.
 
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I haven't tested this yet smiley.png , but if there had been an accident, the camera has a vibration sensor that locks the video so it isn't overwritten.
 
This is not an "action" camera, yet one of the sales people at Cycle Gear mentioned that the video I showed her was as good or better than her GoPro. I don't know if I'd go that far. But it is good.
As a "dash" camera though, I'd rate it as exceptional. The quality of everything is excellent, and the price is great.
 
I have only one nit-pick... When you mount the cameras in their mounts, they are still a little lose when the screw is tightened all the way. The "fix"...just use another washer on the inside of the two arms of the mount that holds the camera and it'll tighten just fine. That is really minor. You'll see what I mean when you mount yours.
 
Lastly, I have to make a comment about the HaloCam customer service. It is exceptional. I notice that of the previous reviews, one person had issues with his camera. I did too initially. I contacted them and they were outstanding in resolving my issue. I don't know when I've had better customer service. They definitely stand by their product.
 
Chris
 
Interesting Review Chris / Daboo.
Except for the mention of the Sena ... it appears to be worse for word the same detailed review as Diana Rypkema on Amazon who also had a blue car race up behind and cur in front of her. What's the connection?
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*Snip* 
What is it like in use? I've attached three screen captures. The rear camera shows a white vehicle merging behind me on the freeway. If you look closely, you can see another car to the side of it.
 
*snip picture*
 
The next picture shows the blue car rapidly gaining speed. Although there is a large open space to merge into, it is clear he is not merging there.
 
*snip picture*
 
The last picture shows the blue car cutting in front of me. BTW, the only reason he had that much space to merge into, was that I wasn't going to "fight" for my space and I backed off. Right after he moved in front of me, he cut over two more lanes in heavy traffic. If there had been an accident, the video shows a seamless capture of his actions from the rear camera to the front camera.
 
*snip picture*
 
I haven't tested this yet smiley.png , but if there had been an accident, the camera has a vibration sensor that locks the video so it isn't overwritten.
 
*snip*
Chris
Interesting Review Chris / Daboo. Except for the mention of the Sena ... it appears to be worse for word the same detailed review as Diana Rypkema on Amazon who also had a blue car race up behind and cur in front of her. What's the connection?
 
I snipped out a bunch to reduce size/formatting, but he stated screen captures and that he hadn't tested it yet.  I'm guessing he clipped the screen captures from the website since they used the footage to obtain the example images.  I doubt there's a connection, just people using the stock images from the site to show examples for a review.
 
 
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Interesting Review Chris / Daboo.
Except for the mention of the Sena ... it appears to be worse for word the same detailed review as Diana Rypkema on Amazon who also had a blue car race up behind and cur in front of her. What's the connection?
It's the same review from me.  It's easy to cut and paste.  I like sharing what I think are "good deals".  As for Diana, she's my daughter.  I just bought it through her account. 
As for the screen captures, they were from actual video footage I recorded.
 
I was on a road trip for weeks since buying the camera (down Hwy 101 to San Mateo, then over inland to Zion National Park and Lassen Volcanic National Park and back to Seattle).  It seemed to work perfectly for the entire trip.  But locally?  Some of the video files have dropped frames.  I'm not seeing any rhyme or reason behind why.
 
I'm still happy with it.  It's a dash cam that is almost good enough to be an action camera.  And for many purposes, it is.
 
One thing to keep in mind is you need to get the fastest memory card you can for it.  The "EVO" card Amazon matches up with it for buying together, is not fast enough. 
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One thing to consider when purchasing SD cards, whether for a dashcam, camera, drone, or anything else that uses SD cards (including microSD)...the "fastest" is NOT always the fastest. For one thing, the capacity factors into the read & write speeds (and, remember, the write speed is FAR more important). Additionally, different brands have different speeds, even when comparing "identical" (ie. capacity, and classification).
 
Case in point - SanDisk "Ultra" & "Extreme" cards. I just purchased Nikon's just-released Coolpix P1000 Ultra-Zoom camera, and needed to get an SD card for it. While the camera does support up to 512GB cards (if they're SanDisk, as the camera only supports up to 128GB Samsung cards), I decided that 128GB should be more than enough...although I would also consider two 64GB cards, depending on price, & read/write speeds (ie. if two 64GB cards were equal/less than the 128GB card and/or the 64GB card was significantly faster than the 128GB card).
 
Anyway, I compared the specs of the Ultra & Extreme cards, in both 64GB & 128GB capacities. With the 64GB cards, the Extreme was noticeably faster than the Ultra, yet the price was only slightly higher. If I were to decide on a 64GB card, I would have gotten the SanDisk Extreme. However, I was still leaning towards the 128GB cards...and here's where things get we extremely (pun intended) 'interesting'. While the Extreme was faster than the Ultra with the 64GB cards, the opposite was true when it comes to the 128GB cards, as the Ultra is actually faster (for both read & write speeds) than the Extreme. Considering all four cards were on sale, the 128GB Ultra was the snag smartest/wisest decision.
 
The moral of this story is, do NOT just go by the speed classification - while many U3 cards are faster than their comparable (ie. capacity) U1 cards, there ARE some U1 cards that are faster than their comparable U3 cards...when purchasing SD (or microSD) cards, ALWAYS compare the read/write speeds for the capacities you are considering. It's ok to "trade" a little speed for a higher-capacity card, but, if the speed difference is to great, then (especially for use in a dashcam) consider the next smaller capacity.

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Sorry to necro an old thread, but it's been a while since this review and I'm really considering getting this or something like it.  I love my gopro, but I'd like options if I don't feel like messing with batteries or making sure I copied the SD card and formatted it, etc...

 

How well does the lens handle rain?  The flat surface of the gopro lens cover won't let go of raindrops, even when I use rainex or nikwax type products.  This makes the video almost useless when reviewing rainy footage unless I actively wipe the lens on a regular basis.

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