FJ09/tracer900 six dollar oil filter

[empire00]

if it's so tight you need to use the nut, it's on too tight.

I don’t put them on that tight. It is quicker for me to grab a 17mm and loosen the filter than to use the strap wrench. I also burn myself on the header less.I went to NAPA and bought a oil filter socket that fits the OEM filter. It was only $5ish dollars and solves all the problems. 
 
 

[empire00]

Cup wrench works fine on filters I install. Only time not -- when new or when prior owner used a dealer.  
I will use just about any brand that's popular because after 40 years of doing this there's no data showing that doesn't work. Looking at the internals tells you zero about the filter IME.
 
The K&N failures, and other aftermarket failures (K&N doesn't make their own motorcycle filters) I've read of, were all sealing gasket failures not related to the nut. EG:
 
http://www.roadracingworld.com/news/cvma-banning-all-aftermarket-oil-filters/
 
The K&Ns were convenient for me not for spinning the nut but because of the safety wiring hole for my track bikes. However, that's easy to handle with a worm drive clamp.

Here are some pictures of failures around the nut from that I could find from the past year or so. They don't look real bad but when the bike is running it is spraying out at a alarming rate. 

[pattonme]

the ones I have bought the 'nut' is pressed into the metal as a shape, not riveted on after the fact. but I come back to my earlier point. If you can't get it off with a solid grip with one hand or two it's on TOO TIGHT. Period. Never use mechanical advantage during install.

[skipperT]

the ones I have bought the 'nut' is pressed into the metal as a shape, not riveted on after the fact. but I come back to my earlier point. If you can't get it off with a solid grip with one hand or two it's on TOO TIGHT. Period. Never use mechanical advantage during install.

 
I agree with you.
However, every Japanese service manual out there says 10-12 ft/lbs using a torque wrench.
 
Hence why they are always a bitch to take off at the first service.
 
-Skip

[chitown]

Cup wrench works fine on filters I install. Only time not -- when new or when prior owner used a dealer.  
I will use just about any brand that's popular because after 40 years of doing this there's no data showing that doesn't work. Looking at the internals tells you zero about the filter IME.
 
The K&N failures, and other aftermarket failures (K&N doesn't make their own motorcycle filters) I've read of, were all sealing gasket failures not related to the nut. EG:
 
http://www.roadracingworld.com/news/cvma-banning-all-aftermarket-oil-filters/
 
The K&Ns were convenient for me not for spinning the nut but because of the safety wiring hole for my track bikes. However, that's easy to handle with a worm drive clamp.

Here are some pictures of failures around the nut from that I could find from the past year or so. They don't look real bad but when the bike is running it is spraying out at a alarming rate. 
 

 

 

That filter failed because of the nut that installed it, not the nut on the filter.  
 
 

[empire00]

Three different pictures three different bikes, They didn't just ban them at tracks across the country without reason.
 
 
 

[chitown]

I've used them on three different bikes and had no failures. I've also had to destroy multiple filters installed incorrectly on more than three bikes.
 
Still haven't seen a source that says that says they were banned from the track to due to nut failure. The track failures reported in the media weren't at install/removal time, they were on track seal failures at the gasket.
 
Torque wrenches and inexperience are the debil. Look at folks reporting stripped studs etc elsewhere on this site. Blindly following manuals and consumer grade torque wrenches leads to a lot of problems. I'm not special, we all start out with zero experience and hopefully someone gives us a hand up.
 

[tobz]

Anyone know country of origin for First line filters? I order from RMATV often, but usually only use Hiflofiltro which are made in Thailand. I've heard they make many OEM filters.

[peripateticmike]

Just a PSA. Since all 3 of my bikes take the same oil filter, I usually buy several at a time. I found this place has the OEM filters for $7.77US. Or buy a ten pack for $7.10 a piece.
 
https://www.partsvu.com/yamaha-f15-f25-f40-f50-f60-f70-outboard-oil-filter-5gh-13440-60-00-5gh-13440-50-00.html

[TomTracer]

On 8/21/2018 at 12:16 AM, leonardlloyd said:

You may consider it a stupid question but over 60 years of cars, trucks and motorcycles, especially in the 50 years working on the latter, i have learned the hard way that not all filters are equal in this regard. These do appear well formed for the correct oil filter removal wrench. Not all are.

An official cross reference chart would be very beneficial. 

[nhchris]

Call me old fashioned but I use the "3/4 turn after initial gasket contact" technique.  Seems to be adequate to seal gasket completely and allow (usually) for hand spin off.

The one time I torqued the oil filter it bottomed out at the suggested torque value which pissed me off and made me queasy.

I run Yami OEM filters only and usually don't need more than two oil changes a year here in NH.

With my FJ I worry more about punching a hole in the pan than the filter leaking!

Edited October 8, 2021 by nhchris

[PhotoAl]

I do the same and usually get the filter off with my hand.  I only run the Ymai oil filters as well - last time I changed the oil it had only been a bit over 3 weeks since the last one 🙂  (long trip).  I'm not fond of the cost of the OEM filters and usually buy them Partzilla 3 at a time.  Put 17,500 miles on my bike in 54 weeks so have been thru some oil and filters.  Last oil change was 6,200 miles but on a long trip.  Some countries have 6,000 mile oil change intervals so didn't worry about it.  Ran Motul synthetic, currently running Castrol synthetic as I had some already and probably won't put 4,000 miles on it before next long trip.  Also will check valve clearances sometime soon.

I'm not against aftermarket filters just do not have confidence in them although there are a couple of brands I would run.  Facts I want to know is flow rate, filtering ability and pressure relieve valve setting.  All can vary and if not good then possibly may damage the engine and transmission.

Flip side to all that is I (like most) probably worry too much about oil and filters.  Descent oil, regular changes and letting the bike come up to operating temperatures before heavy acceleration are more important and the actual oil less so.  Lots of folks with impressive mileage on just good synthetic oil.  Kind of like the folks that stunt their bikes have to rebuild the suspension components much more frequently than riders who ride on smooth streets.