Wingnut Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) You know, I think you're right. I was thinking (not too deeply) that with upper part of the cartridge exposed I could just grab it with a wrench on some flat and crank off the cartridge bottom bolt ... buuut the more I understand the design, the upper part of the assembly 'floats' in the lower half and could just spin on it's own. One Y'allTube video showed the guy just driver impacted that bolt off and removing the cartridge, no cartridge restraining tool in sight. But, in the story of MY life, there's at least a 50% chance that bolt and bottom cartridge assy could be like penguins, married for life, with thread lock. (*sigh*) ordering the spring compression tool ... or making one. The Ohlins don't need such a tool on their side but, I gotta get the old one out cleanly. Really? 60 beans for a tube with notches in it? Let me have a large coffee and a few minutes at the bench to see if I can duplicate that puppy. I made the damper pull up extension with a $2 nut from the hardware and a rod I had lying around. Beats $30. Made an oil level tool like the Motion Pro with bench bin surplus. The purchase of the NIX 30's with springs was hit so I'm taking it back where I can. Edited January 10, 2021 by Wingnut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member piotrek Posted January 11, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted January 11, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Wingnut said: (*sigh*) ordering the spring compression tool ... or making one. The Ohlins don't need such a tool on their side but, I gotta get the old one out cleanly. Really? 60 beans for a tube with notches in it? Let me have a large coffee and a few minutes at the bench to see if I can duplicate that puppy. You should not need the tool to remove the cartridge. The tool comes in very handy when re-assembling things, but you should be able to just use an impact driver to remove. Keep the assembly intact and that should help keep the cartridge from spinning. Once you dump the oil, screw the cap back on the tube and give the bottom bolt a go with a driver. If you happen to be super unlucky... then rig stuff up. I made the tool from EMT for re-assembly, but managed to remove the cartridge bolt without fuss. @betoney made a good point with the fork seals/bushings... might be a good time to do these while you're in there, if it's time. Seal driver is handy, and you can also make one if you want. Edited January 11, 2021 by piotrek 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnut Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 (edited) Re: seals and bushings, the bike has 1225 miles on it, bought it with 950. It's been garaged it's whole life. I'll clean 'em and grease the tube slightly for stiction: but I'm sure they're in pretty good shape. Edited January 12, 2021 by Wingnut 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member piotrek Posted February 14, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 14, 2022 (edited) I had nothing in my arsenal to comfortably fit or be modified to fit the lower tree fork clamp bolts with the front end fully assembled... so I picked up this little guy to go on the 3/8" ratchet/torque wrench. Fits great and I could probably shave off another 3mm and make it even gooder. Sunex part number 364606. Shows up as a socket on Amazon, but the description is correct. Might come handy to someone on here. Edited February 18, 2022 by piotrek 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YamaGeezer Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 I have done extra lights, air horn, etc. I'll add in anyone who will work on a bike needs some electrical tools. A basic (read not expensive) multimeter, assortment of heat shrink, 12V test light, and spare fuses (don't ask me about this one). You don't have to be an electrical engineer to solve most of the small wiring issues on bikes. What about everyone else - any suggestions on other electrical tools? Ride Safe! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 14, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 14, 2022 18 minutes ago, YamaGeezer said: What about everyone else - any suggestions on other electrical tools? A quality crimper and a heat gun. 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmark101 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 On 5/19/2019 at 12:20 AM, Tony Doms said: I ditched the Phillips screwdrivers years ago and replaced them with JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screwdrivers, essential for owners of Japanese bikes. There's no going back after using these. Everyone should have a set of these in their tool box! I found a cheap set on Ebay years ago and they work very well. 3 There is nothing like spending a day riding with friends in the grip of a shared obsession. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted February 15, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 15, 2022 14 hours ago, YamaGeezer said: I have done extra lights, air horn, etc. I'll add in anyone who will work on a bike needs some electrical tools. A basic (read not expensive) multimeter, assortment of heat shrink, 12V test light, and spare fuses (don't ask me about this one). You don't have to be an electrical engineer to solve most of the small wiring issues on bikes. What about everyone else - any suggestions on other electrical tools? Ride Safe! 13 hours ago, betoney said: A quality crimper and a heat gun. A decent soldering iron will come in handy too. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member roadrash83 Posted February 15, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 15, 2022 The best tools I have ever had for working on bikes is a factory shop manual for the specific bike. Mine sit right next to my tool box. Also throw in a few generic books on motorcycle electric systems, carburetor's, fuel injection and suspension. They have more than paid for them selves many times over and saved a lot of stupid, costly mistakes. I shake my head when some one goes out and spend thousands of dollars on a bike and farkels, but won't cough up the money for a workshop manual. As they say stupidity pay's. 1 He who dies with the most toys wins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightBeSasquatch Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 All very good information, I am quite distressed that there has been no mention of "a cold one" in this thread. It's a must have for any kind of "work" before, during, and after. Also, for something more practical the '21 axle nut is now 32mm. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZVFR Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 6 hours ago, MightBeSasquatch said: All very good information, I am quite distressed that there has been no mention of "a cold one" in this thread. It's a must have for any kind of "work" before, during, and after. Also, for something more practical the '21 axle nut is now 32mm. If you don't drink wile working on the bike, how in hell can you tell someone how long it took to do the job? It's like the standard time measurement in motorcycle mechanics. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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